you can test it( when its not working) there is a test procedure. but it's possibly the clutch lever, that's where I would start to look. I have had this go out of whack a couple of times, it can move under severe conditions and bumpy roads are very common around here. you can only test it of course when it is not working.

 

Have you seen the video tutorial and the PDF document to help you with the cruise-control troubleshooting ?

See post #1 of this thread on same forum:
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/61130-k1200rs-cruise-control-troubleshooting-tutorial.html

If cruise goes out (intermittent) when hitting bumps, is is most commonly caused by a loose clutch-lever micro-switch. As explained in Video and in PDF document, one of the difficulty lies with the fact that the Throttle micro-switch and the Clutch-lever micro-switch are on the same signal wire - thus when any of those 2 are not working correctly (stuck in the "clicked" position or defective), the diagnostic procedure will fail at the throttle step.

As shown in the video, you need to pay VERY CLOSE attention to WHEN and HOW they click based on the lever movement (or throttle movement) - you need a quiet environment to do this.

If it is the clutch micro-switch: review video beginning at 7:37 (min:sec) where the micro-switch location is shown - you will need to loosen single screw of the switch, do a small rotation of switch (not much is available) and re-tighten it. You need to hear the "click" of the switch after a small lever movement otherwise it will keep being hit too early. The wear in the lever pivot bushing is also a factor (as you have said) and may amplify the problem. In most cases, you can rotate the switch just a tiny amount to compensate. In the worst case, I have bent the metal tab of the switch, but this is a bit tricky as there is another switch and metal tab behind (for starter safety interlocks when in gear).

If it is the Throttle micro-switch: cable free play and cable routing is critical. Using a good flashlight, compare video behavior with yours when throttle is fully closed from rest position.

Let us know how it goes...

 

Check the free play in your rear brake pedal.Mine was set so that if I even got near the brake pedal it would cancel it

 

Thanks for the replies...
I did check out the video about the cruise control test, it's pretty cool that that even exists. My problem is the cruise is working, but just pops off occasionally, although it seems to be getting more frequent. I will go down to the garage in the dead of night, make sure the TV and stereo are off, give the dog a treat so she won't make that whiney noise thinking I'm going somewhere without her, and try the levers and listen for the click, could just be caused by the levers getting sloppy from use. I did just recently bleed the brake system, but didn't get any fluid on anything, and brakes seem to be just fine.
I'll be riding it home from work tomorrow morning, so I'll see how it goes..

 

The throttle micro switch always gave me problems. While your bike is on its center stand, turn the wheel all the way in both directions. While stopped at it furthest direction (each way), back off on the throttle, you should hear a click from the center of the bike (under the plastic). Look at the very last paragraph on the attached document to better explain checking the switch.

 

check the speedo sensor wire from top of FD, it commonly breaks near the pivot point of the swing arm.

 

My cruise control was kicking out when the speedo sensor wire went. When the cruise control was not being used, the speedo needle would sometimes flutter and sometimes just before I fixed it, the speedo would drop to zero for a few seconds. Solder repair, heat shrink tubing and back on the road. All is well.

 

Throttle cables maybe?

 

My guess is the micro-switch at the clutch lever... when I first got my 2000 LT, it would disengage on rough roads and a simple adjustment of that switch ended it, been good the last 5 years.

 

Thanks again for all the input, this truly is the best forum ever!!
I have about 60 miles on the bike since I posted, running the same road to work. I tried holding out the levers and the foot brake lever as well, and I am getting the feeling it is the speedo sensor wire. It seems to occur when the bike takes a dip, rather than small bumps. Here on Whidbey Island, the state has cut the wake-up groove down the centerline of the road, I hate riding on them, especially when I need to pass someone (need/want, same-same) Part of my test of the cruise was to ride a bit on those grooves, it does shake things up...well, no change, cruise held fine, but it seemed when I hit the dips or large bumps that the cruise would kick out, so I'm thinking when the rear wheel and drive move up and down, it is causing the speedo sensor wire to flex, and maybe the root of my issue..I am going to keep looking, as the problem is too intermittent to positively nail down at this time.
I'll post again if I find the little gremlin..

 

The rear-drive speed sensor problem is quite common on 1st generation like yours (1999-2001). As already mentioned by many, you will need to inspect the wire leading to speed-sensor.

You will find good pictures on what to look for and what to repair in these 2 posts:
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/46329-intermittent-speedometer.html#post550346

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/46329-intermittent-speedometer.html#post550357

 

If you are suspecting the speedo wire, a very close check with a good light may reveal cracking in the wire jacket (cover). Its not too big a job to remove the wire to check it. You could check for resistance in the wire as well without removing it. There is a plug somewhere under the seat and a couple of zip ties to undo. I found repair to be faster and cheaper than replacement.

 

Sailor, I am impressed with that video! You put a lot of time into that and it shows.
I have an 2004 r1200clc. I recently removed the BMW audio system adding an amp and mp3 plug, and now my Cruise does not engage.
Here is the thing...
On the self diagnostic test everything works as it should. I can hear the faint clicks of the microswitches.

I did have to have the throttle body fixed, last summer but it worked after that.

The only thing I can think of is that when the guy wired the new amplifier, that safety mechanism which turns off the music when accelerating may have something to do with it...

Thoughts?

 

Todd,

Thank you for the kind words - indeed it was a lot of work to make the video and PDF file as clear as possible to solve majority of cruise-control problems on these BMW. To solve all remaining cases / type of problem would have required to make it way too long or too complex.

BACK TO YOUR PROBLEM:
FIRST a WARNING: main reason why the tutorial (Video and PDF file) says it was mainly applicable to K1200LT and K1200RS is because I did not have access to other models for testing and troubleshooting. However, I am well aware other models (R1200RT, R1200CL…) share many of the K1200LT cruise system components.

On your R1200CL, the major differences are related to the throttle-cables and throttle-bodies arrangement. Cables adjustments and throttle-bodies micro-switch operation cannot be checked the same way as a K1200.

Although I do NOT have a R1200CL here for testing, I was able to check the BMW electrical diagrams AND also a technical note published to dealers when the R1200CL was introduced. Based on these 2 technical documents, and also based on your post, I would suggest to attack your problem with these 2 troubleshooting paths:
1) Is the speed signal reaching the cruise-control unit ?
2) Is the cable from throttle cables junction-box to cruise-unit correctly installed / adjusted?

For the 1st item above: there is no need to go into complex electronic testing unless you have negative results in some/all of the following tests:
a) Can you see the SET Yellow light flashing while you do the last step of the static diag procedure (rear wheel rotation)?
b) When you ride, does you speedo function properly?
c) When you ride, does the self-cancel function of the flashers works?

For the 2nd item above (throttle cables): The control-cables junction box is located behind the fairing and headlight assembly both of which require removal to access it. This cable junction box interconnects four cables with two pulleys. It contains the micro-switch that signals the cruise control module when the throttle is turned in the close direction to cancel cruise function (see attached diagram).

If the cable leading to/from the cruise-control unit is not mounted / adjusted properly, you may find the cruise will not engage while riding EVEN IF all the steps of the static diagnostic appear to be OK. Watch and listen carefully what is going on JUST AFTER you released the brake pedal in step 7 of the static diagnostic: you should see (and hear) the throttle grip move by itself. This will confirm that the cruise-control unit can pull its own cable leading to the throttle junction box.

 

Lots of great info has been posted here.
It's practically irrelevant to this conversation, but my '05 has exhibited cruise setting kick-out during 20 F temps on a long ride maintaining 80-90mph. Would kick off only at around that temp and refused to be set again for hours if at all.
At warmer temps, there is no problem. Still mulling it over....

Bob

 

Im getting exactly the same problem!!
But on my bmw k 1200 lt ‘99

Did you solve the problem?

Can someone tell me how i can fix it?

 

Thank you Sailor. I appreciate the time in your response. You know, I had the fairing off to change my headlight bulbs and I didn't think to look. I will print your response and look at this issue more carefully.
Thanks again.

Why don't you come to NH and open a shop? You would have at least one customer!

Ride safe.

Todd

 

Hi All,
I was going over my old posts, and found this about the intermittent cruise control problem....Usually I can hardly wait to brag about my troubleshooting and mechanical prowess, but somehow I never finished the story here!
It did turn out to be the speed sensor wire located on the final drive. The wire is secured with little black wire ties, and all that swing arm going up and down eventually caused the wire to break. I got a used replacement off eBay, and that completely solved the problem (I’m dusting off my hands now) sorry to leave this thread hanging for so long.

 

I have had the problem on a 05 r1200 rt for 10 years. It is so intermittent that I don't want tear into it. It is getting worse but I think It is foot brake micro switch. I think that it is in the environment of splashing, dirt etc that it is failing. When it trips off, if I step on the foot brake a few times then engage the cruise control it works, sometimes!