That box behind the ABS pump is the reverser controller and it mounts with just a few bolts and should come out without having to remove the sub frame. That will give you room to remove the ABS pump. It does have three heavy Black/Yellow stripe wires with one going to battery +(has a red sleeve), one goes to the starter tie point (black sleeve) and the last going to the ground tie point (brown sleeve). Then it should pop out. It also has two barrel connectors.

 

So share where you’re sending it and the results.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

That sucks. I've recently sold my similar age 2004 built K1200GT with iABS to another bloke, and within 2 months the rear ABS has faulted, similar to yours.
Been trying to help him out with it with info, and helping removing the dash light in the ABS and warning lamps (his request,not my suggestion) but not much else I can do.
I doubt he'll pay to have the iABS repaired if it can be... but I'll pass on any details you post if it works out.
good luck

 

Yeah its a real bummer to be honest but could have been worse I guess..... Ok the company in Germany that does the rebuilding is Rhelectronics, if you search for type-am1 you will see our ABS pump used in the later K1200LT models

Reading the translated blurb this is the device I have with the two motors and the quick release fittings etc.... It's an expensive option and I believe in the UK one company may also have a look at this device but Google has been unable to point me in the correct direction.

Once I have it out I will check the part number and use that in my search engine.

I really love the bike so it has to be done although RH also make a Block with a bit of electrical trickery that replaces the whole unit and does away with the ABS side in its entirety.

This may be a better option really as the rebuild is guaranteed for two years whist the block has no moving parts to fail etc... Its also quite expensive but is a fit and forget option.

Thanks for the updates on the Reverse Control module and I will attempt to remove it tonight UK time

 

I have the same failure on my 05LT. I am interested in the unit from Germany that
removes the ABS entirely. Right now waiting for translation of invoice
to English , so the bank will be happy to make a transfer.
jim

 

I couldn’t ride this beast without ABS.
Mine failed back in 2011.
Replaced it with a brand new unit at $4,200 after importing it here. It was stupid money but had no options or knowledge at the time and I was in love (still am) with this thing.

So, it’s been good for the past 8 years.
I think the original failure was caused because a rat ate a brake hose and the pump ran dry on the front circuit. So only rear brakes.

I have two servo units from the K12R and one from the K12LT.

How much is Rhelectronics charging nowadays?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Ok I finally wrestled out the reverse unit and have taken a piccie of the ABS Pump. Mine is an FTE S2AB90039

I've located a UK company that can repair these, the price looks good and they are a world wide operation. I will say that whilst I was changing the brake lines I removed the fluid from the bar mounted reservoir to aide the flushing.

In all the years I have been spannering I have never seen brake fluid that looked like Yogurt. Seriously flush the brake lines this weekend on your bike. I have no idea what could do that to the fluid other than the OE lines breaking down with age.

Fingers crossed that this company can do the business and If they come through I will post the Name and I think they will be very busy.

My replacement lines were made in the UK but I was not at all impressed with the fittings (I am currently talking with them so await a response before I name and shame them.)

 

I replaced the brake lines with Spiegler. They are of awesome quality, and they sell the exact kit for K12LT.
Hope you resolve the issue, or return them.

 

What is the name of the company in the UK ?

 

By now most folks realize the servo systems actually have 4 separate fluid systems. Each needs to be bled separately. But I do see posts where it seems this knowledge has not gotten to the owner. In a damp climate, every year, even though the manual says different.

 

That reminds me to change it.
Almost afraid to change it. These things have a way to get broken if messed it. It’s jinxed.

I do it every two years. But I live in 60-80% humidity.
Will change to yearly.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

I agree with the every year flush. I did mine last year and just changed it again and it was pretty dark for only one year. Florida humidity is not good for brake fluid!

 

Ok this is a message to anyone who's taken the ABS pump out.

Firstly how did you get the electrical plug off the module (I don't want to damage it) and then how on earth did you get the whole thing out.

It feels like the pump is solid and I've removed all the fixings I can see.

I've taken the front fixing out and the top fixing that holds the transfer tube to the inner rearmost line.

It feels like its still fixed to the battery tray

Frustrated in England

 

Ok after a lot of grunting and groaning the things finally out. I didn't realise the unit stays on the carrier. If Sombody looks at this in the future I had to pry under the pump against the frame as the unit is held by 4 pegs that slot into rubber gromits in the tray.

Right now I don't love this bike so I am looking forward to getting this sorted so I can learn to enjoy it all over again.

I'll keep you all appraised as the refurbishment continues, it's crazy but right now £25 in parts would bypass the abs altogether but in reality I've gotten used to the brakes and they do inspire confidence when two up.

Not so sure about a gravel car park mind.

I suppose as it's got so much of its clothes off I should change the fuel and air filters

 

Look at the end of the connector opposite the wires. You will see a small slot, place a flat blade screw driver in the slot and pull out ward with the driver. That part of the connector will slide out and jack the connector upward and off.

 

Many thanks buddy your a start and it worked perfectly

 

The lines I bought in the UK were sourced directly from Venhill. I could not find spiegler lines in the UK.

There are two lines on the rear and 3 of the 4 fittings were not the same shape as the OE lines.

2 of the front 4 lines had different shaped fittings I.e the angle of the elbows etc.

The front left as you sit on the bike is 10-15mm too long and so pushes up the hard line into the bottom yoke so I will need to keep an eye on that.

Honestly they are OK but that's all they are.

I cannot recommend them and that does not make me happy.

 

Hello Guys, My name is Jan and i'm a LT1200 2003 owner for about a year now.

Recently i found a few drips off brake fluid on the floor right under the abs unit. When i inspect the unit, i see oil on the outside of the 2 motors on the unit. Also have ABS and ! flashing on the dash.
I am going to remove the ABS Unit, screw it apart and put new o-rings in. i found a good tutorial for this on youtube. Unfortunently there is no info about the side and material of the new o-ring he has put in.
So i have two questions :
- are there any pics or procedures on this forum that shows how to remove the abs unit on an K1200LT 2003?
- does anyone knows what meterial the O-rong has to be in order to be compatible with the brake fluid.

BTW i learned already a lot reading all the stuff on this forum. Great job guys !!!

Many thanks

 

I have taken a few apart for parts but was not aware there was a video, could you post a link to it here? I am away from my computer or I would post my many pictures of the "guts" . You need a "tri" bit to unscrew the halves of the unit (like an offset Phillips with three blades.

OK I think I found it here

 

The one i found on youtube : youtube.com/watch?v=NzS1TSNPkuo. It is in French but that no problem, it is well made.

 

Before i begin to remove the abs unit, does the battery tray has to come of with the pump or do i concentrate only on the pump?

Thanks for the info

 

No the Battery tray can stay in situ. You will need to remove the module for the reverse drive though. A few fasteners and sadly you need to remove the cables to it. There's a big earth and also a live that goes straight to the battery.

You will need to un-clip a lot of the cable ties as the wires get in the way but it can be done... Once the abs hard lines are out just wiggle it upwards and the 4 pegs will come out of the rubber bushes in the tray. The ABS unit stays in its carrier that fold the top hard line

Take the batter out as it will give you more hand room. I also removed the fixing at the front of the battery tray as that allowed one of the hard lines more movement.

 

Have a look at this picture..... You can see the caddy that the ABS unit sits in.... I didn't have the correct bits to remove it so sent the whole lot away for repair... I should hear this week fingers crossed.

Can you spot the Ear plugs

 

Thanks for the info.

Getting it all out in most of the cases isn't a problem. Getting it back in is a pain in the ..... .

Earplugs, yes, i was wondering what these orange things were.

 

Belle ABS pump vidéo, mais je ne comprenais pas un mot.

 

Comment ça? Mechanics is a universal language, non

 

She's finally out. Took me an hour and 16 different bits. Clearly there is a leak at the bottom of the motor side. Bought the bit (5 point torx with central hole) to open it. Normally i should receive them on tuesday. Keep in touch