BMW Luxury Touring Community banner

Headlight lens pitted

8.5K views 51 replies 18 participants last post by  GSinNC  
#1 ·
Trying to see if anybody has any ideas.

I think my '12 R1200RT w/122000 on it is going to be a keeper. After those miles my headlight has become badly pitted. Not sure what it does to the light pattern either for me or oncoming traffic in the rain. I would like to replace it and this time get a cover, but $1500 for one from BMW is pretty steep. I've been watching the used-parts sites but no luck.

Has anybody had any success with polishing the lens without affected the optics (not sure if correct word) of the lights?

Tony Van Der Voorn
Wichita, KS
 
#3 ·
There have been several posts about the very steep price of this part. I decided to have it covered with clear selfhealing wrap on my brand new RTW and hope this will save me from needing a new lens due to chipping.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I didn't know about lens covers and by the time I learned they existed had this much pitting on my '16:

Image

Image


The really weird part is: most of these pits appear to be NOT on the outside! If I run a fingernail across most of them there is no defect, whereas a few there are. Even w/ a high magnification lens it appears most of these are on the inside--I'm assuming the inside DOES NOT communicate w/ the outside, so must be an illusion except for one thing: my windscreen has nowhere near the pit density, in fact there are really very few pits now after 27K miles on my windscreen. I still don't know what to make of it but I know I'd put a cover on had I known about this when I bought the bike.
 
#4 ·
Not much you can do about missing material (pits). I doubt there's any significant effect on the light pattern, pull up to a blank wall and see if you can see any hot or dark spots, (use sunglasses so you don't wash out contrast) to verify. I had experience with trying to polish scratches out of a windshield once (removed the protective coating I didn't know was there and added lots of new scratches).

If it were me I'd recalibrate my expectations, learn to cherish the pits as character marks, and put a protector on now so I wouldn't accumulate more.
 
#6 ·
If it was me I'd keep a constant eye out on the EBay's for a low mileage used one, not a lot you can do, except buy new...

When I realized that this was an issue with these pitting, on my new '16 RT-LC I within 6k miles ponied up and bought a AeroFlow shield.
Pricey, yes, but it gave me $144.00 worth of peace of mind that I would not need to get my OCD in a twist with a pitted $1500.00+ assembly.......

Cee Baileys was a killer price, but no more :frown:
 
#11 ·
Amazon has the 3M paint protection film for about $19 for a 12"x25" sheet which would be enough for the headlight. There is also the 3M pro series but not sure what the difference would be - it is only a little bit more expensive. I bought the standard and will be installing it on my headlight lens this week. If I like it, I may go crazy with it and put it everywhere!
 
#12 ·
I didn't care for the hard plastic guards so I laid some 3M Pro clear on my headlight for some protection. It won't stop a rock but it should protect from most tiny debris nicks. No ill effect on the light beam but I don't ride much at night anyway. Cheap and easy to peel off and renew periodically if it gets cloudy or abraded.
 
#14 ·
Have always used a Cee Bailey's headlight protector. The they work well and are easy to pop on and off for cleaning. On my GSA I have a AltRider plastic guard that is one of the best around. But once pitted not sure what to do other than replace it. You should be able to get a new one for about $1200 but that is still pretty steep. I agree with what others have posted ... keep a watch for a used one and I would also post a "want to buy" add on the MOA site as well as the BMWST site.
 
#15 ·
Cee Bailey recently got out of the motorcycle plastic business so you'll need to choose from the many other suppliers of headlight shields.
 
#16 ·
Yep ... I am aware of that but luckily both my bikes are equipped with headlight guards already. Any new RT would probably use Aeroflow and any new GS I'd continue to use AltRider. Too bad about Cee Bailey as they had a good product.
 
#17 ·
17,000 miles and I may have a few marks on mine, but no big deal at all.

I think the film would be the way I would go.

I used the C Bailey on the FJR for 30,000 miles and not really sure what it did. It was ugly with the dots to hold it on. It did allow rain or wash water to run behind it and make it dirty and ugly until removed and cleaned. And I never did see any hits on it that would have hurt the bike lens.

I would be very pissed if mine looked like NoelCP's does. That would not do ESPECIALLY since he says he can not feel it on the outside. That would have been at a dealer and it would have been fixed. If it is not on the outside it can not be the owners fault.

I have never seen another lens look like that in all the years that they have switched to plastic.

Never seen or ever broke a glass bulb in any car or bike I drove for that matter.

I would think if you lived in desert areas a lens cover would make sense and in that case I would use a film. Not hard to put on and with the edge around it you could tuck it around it and no matter how bad you cut it would not show.

I was a Glazier for 25 years and you can polish acrylic/Lexan/polycarbonate if they are not coated.

In fact here in PA Midas Muffler will do car headlights that have yellowed and guarantee it and if they do not come clear they do not charge you. However the shop I talked to said they have never not gotten them clear again.

I would like a link to that piece that was mentioned in one of the posts by WillH.
 
#18 ·
I used the C Bailey on the FJR for 30,000 miles and not really sure what it did. It was ugly with the dots to hold it on. It did allow rain or wash water to run behind it and make it dirty and ugly until removed and cleaned. And I never did see any hits on it that would have hurt the bike lens.


Never seen or ever broke a glass bulb in any car or bike I drove for that matter.

The beauty of the Cee Bailey / Aeroflow headlight guards is to protect the headlight from the nicks and dings so your headlight looks pristine. In addition they are a snap to pop off and clean. I agree that I have never seen or encountered a broken headlight but that is not the real reason I have used them. The benefit I see is preserving the actual headlight lens. On my 4 wheel vehicles I do use the film but that is pretty much the only option. But again YMMV and its all a personal choice. One thing for sure running the Cee Bailey protector would ensure the headlight would never look like NoelCP's.
 
#20 ·
I was checking around for options and found a company in UK, Slipstream, that sells an acrylic headlight protector for the RTW. The cost including delivery to Canada was about US$65. I just ordered it so I can't vouch for the product but the company produces a wide variety of acrylic products for many bikes.

https://www.slipscreens.co.uk/bmw-r1200-rt-headlight-protector/

Murray
 
#21 ·
Looks interesting Murray! Let us know how it works out when it arrives.

Thanks for sharing!
 
#22 ·
I too have concerns about pitting. My bike only has 1,800 miles on it and the lens is still in like new condition. I purchased the cover by Aeroflow. It is a little expensive here in California. Tax and shipping included it costs $165. It sounds like it is easy to remove and put back on again. The website makes it sound like a good item to have. I’ll keep you posted once I receive it sometime next week.
 
#23 ·
BMW R1200RS (16- ) Clear Headlight Covers

I am all in, and used the code cyber20 for 20% off.

Cheaper than 31 bucks for the film, and is precut 12 mil!

Should be just the thing. Only have to clean the light once, not three times like with a lens cover.

You have to clean the light, the inside of lens cover and the outside of the lens cover, three times just to clean your light.
 
#24 ·
Thanks ... will get this for my new pick-up. For the bike I am still all in with my Cee Bailey protector. But this is what I needed for my truck!

Thanks
 
#25 ·
Here is the link to the R1200RT WC. $34.95

Had I not already bought the 3M sheet, I would have bought this instead because this comes pre-cut and it looks like a simple peel n stick process.
 
#26 ·
What a great find! I sure wished I'd known about this as mine is really pitted bad now. The weird part is most of them I can't feel at all even by very gently feeling for a pit with a fingernail and they actually look like they are on the inside! The good part is I'm not the one who has to look at it :)
 
#29 ·
Used Lamin-x on my small Piaa aux lights, bought for my truck headlights and wifes Jeep fog lghts. For small surfaces, you can apply dry.. they have a light tint that looks good.. put yellow on Piaa's to match Clearwaters under mirrors. Great bang for the buck !
 
#30 ·
I bet the blue tint would look cool on my headlights but wonder if legal.

One could even get creative and buy a clear one and a blue tinted one and cutout a couple of smaller blue circles to stick on the running lights areas or whatever - sky's the limit.
 
#31 ·
Lamin-X says my film has shipped.

I was reminded that my 2013 Honda Accord has this film on since day one. Both the headlight and the fog light came as a kit.

You can not tell that film is on any of those lights in any way. It is a coupe and lowered, so it takes a bit of a beating from the sand and cinder/salt they use here in PA in the winter.

I bet they are scratching their heads wondering why the "run" on RT headlight/turn signal kits. It was posted on two forums so I am thinking they have a smile on their face.
 
#32 ·
I wanted to mention I bought this to do my headlight with before I ordered the film. Now I will use it to clean the light before installing the film.

I think any good polish or glaze word work. Probably even a clay bar would work

Chemical Guys - Headlight Restorer and Protectant (4 oz)
 
#38 ·
I've tried several screens but for me BMWs own Comfort Screen does the best job for winter riding.

Smooth air, great protection, zero optical distortion, and it looks cool with its screened RT logo. YMMV

Image
 
#39 ·
#46 ·
To really make sure this thread has lost all of it's original intent and integrity I will add my 2 cents.

IMHO you can not cover Summer and a true Winter with one shield. Pretty impossible. Two different needs.

Winter we need protection from the cold air and what we normally expect from a shield in quiet air and no helmet buffeting.

Summer we need air flow with the same expectation of quiet air and no helmet buffeting.

I have never met 1 shield that will do that so I stopped spending hundreds of dollars on shields years a go.

I have two shields, that simple.

I have a stock BMW shield with the MRA-X screen on it drilled in place.

I also have a cut down stock BMW shield with the MRA-X screen with the over the lip attachment.

X-creen - MRA ? Motorcycle Windshields

These two shields do all I need or want in summer or winter. Neither of them do I need to raise into my sight line to keep air off of me. The summer if I raise it 2 inches and adjust the MRA-X I get all the air I want. Same with the winter if I raise it a bit it keeps the air off me and I can make it more so with adjusting the MRA-X.

You just cant have it both ways so at best you compromise on one season or another. Most will live with a summer screen as who the hell drives a lot of miles in Winter?

I try to get out every day I can in winter so I guess I do. Just cant have it both ways.

Over the years I have lost so much money on buying and selling shields that the light went on and I just swap shields. 6 screws and you are done.

YMMV
 
#47 ·
Have to agree that that is no perfect shield for all weather for all people. However, for me I have never used a shield to block cold air in the winter and yes even in Charlotte we get temps in the 20's an I have ridding as cold as about 28 degrees. For me I want reduced buffeting and reduced quiet air. The 2 best shields I have run were Cee Baileys and Z-technick but again not 100% perfect. But let's face it .... we are riding a motorcycle for heavens sake and having air on you for me is part of the experience. But I like the feel of the air and ride with my face shield open and sunglasses on, hence my desire for less buffeting. And while I am happy to spend whatever I need to spend on a quality product I have never felt the need to spend $500 on a shield and lucky for me the $200 shields seem to work acceptably well.

What was the original topic! HA!!
 
#48 ·
I had some time over the weekend and applied the 3M film. Took at least an hour including the time to make a template and sit in front of the bike constantly squeegee-ing to remove "most" of the air bubbles. Never have done this before so I may have used too much soapy solution or not enough of the alcohol solution.......whatever.

So it has now fully dryed and I had some smaller air bubbles left and took a pin to most of them.

Cannot notice it from a distance and doesn't seem to distort the headlight.

If I was to do it again, I would practice on something else as the trick is with the solution and getting all the air bubbles out. Watched all the youtube videos but still need to practice.

I rarely ride at night so I did it more for protection than anything else and it only cost $20