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Tire Temperatures: I need to know

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4.9K views 53 replies 15 participants last post by  wspollack  
#1 · (Edited)
What are the dangerous parameter of tire temperatures for an RT? 2018 wethead

120/70 and 180/55

If someone has a specs from the Dunlop Co. I would appreciate it. I am running Smart III Dunnies


What about the PSI/s What would be the high danger



Anecdotal: once coming back to the West coast from the East, while crossing the desert in triple digits, I check the air on my GT rear tire and it was 56psi...ignorant at the same time as afraid, I lowered the psi to 42...and I always wondered how hot was too hot on the tire temp? cause, I tell ya, that tire was so hot I couldn't touch it
 
#2 ·
FWIW my Smartire system (discontinued) alerts at 176 F for a hot tire. I have never seen that but I have seen 165 F on BT-020 on my LT on a hot summer day.

As far as High pressure danger I don't think you will see that if you start out with the correct cold pressure and I even run mine a bit higher than BMW recommends. I run 47 -48 cold and have seen 57 as my highest pressure during a hot day (stock BMW rec is 42).
 
#3 ·
For an RT 48 cold is high. Why do you think you have figured it out over the BMW engineers for the bike? You reduce your contact patch, change tire temp parameters and certainly change handling. If you set cold temps to stock pressure recommendations you should be okay in the desert. Though the heat and high pressure will let you see tire wear from gas stop to gas stop. I'm serious, to know what advantages you experience with such high pressures.
 
#4 ·
If you are referring to me it is an LT and for 15 years the LT community has run 42/48 over the recommended 36/42 as the lower pressures resulted in very early feathering of the tires. The tires all have a max pressure cold that is higher than what I run so i don't exceed that. It does provide a slightly harsher ride but after 16 rears and 9 fronts I am still happy with it.
 
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#7 ·
All modern MC tires are made to cope the kind of pressures (paraphrased from reading AlanColes comments) you will have in triple digit temps on hot pavement provided you started in the ball park w/ your cold tire pressure as mentioned. My record for tire abuse is 3h, riding uphill for the last hour out of Las Vegas to St George UT at 111-112.9 upon arrival in St George.
 
#8 ·
Noel,
one of the things I find precarious about tire pressure crossing the desert is that you can sometimes experience as much as 30 deg changes in temp between night/day.

Once I posted about this on a GT forum and there were some interesting posts about the physics of pressure and temperature.

But consider: if you start out of a motel at 4am (say from Tucson) and the temp is 68 deg. by the time you get to Yuma (I recall once it was 118). Then, there must be a discrepancy of the starting at recommended pressure, sure there not be? … I must admit, I hid in a motel A/C room that day and humbly accepted my stand: 'flock riding on this sheety temp'.
 
#10 ·
Automotive tires pressure recommendations made my vehicle manufacturers are not the Law. They are a compromise between comfort, longevity, traction, and damage resilience.

Remember Firestone tires on the Ford Explorers? Firestone told Ford to run more air, but Ford didn't like the harsher ride.

We motorcyclists can do the same, tailor our air pressures for what we value more: tread wear, traction, or comfort. If you stay above the vehicle manufacturers recommendation but below the tire manufacturers maximum you should at least be safe.

I can remember adding more air to my tires until they stopped gaining pressures with temperature. So by adding ten percent more air, temps were reduced and hot tire air pressure would stabilize.

https://www.cycleworld.com/almost-everything-you-need-to-know-about-motorcycle-tire-pressures/
 
#13 · (Edited)
1. Using the ideal gas law, PV = nRT, if the air in the tire started at 59 degrees and 42 psi and the pressure went up due to the temperature increase, that would mean the air in the tire went up to 210 degrees. Hot indeed!

2. In such conditions one is indeed faced with a dilemma. Tires (on aircraft in particular) have been known to blow because of overheating. On the other hand letting air out of the tire will allow more flex which will increase the heat generated by the tire. I guess what I would advocate is slowing down in such situations to reduce the heat generated by the tires.
 
#16 ·
I just as soon have a TPM that gives me the 'real-time' pressure and let me decide what to do..

The tire temperature can get very high while rolling on the road. If it is not corrected for temperature, then you would see abnormally high pressures. Some might think to stop and bleed some psi off. That would be a bad idea...



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#24 ·
The type of gas is not a factor. The research and the industry shows that the temperature for typical highway speeds causes the temperature to rise 50 degrees F above the ambient, but cools to a lower, but still warm temp after stopping. The manufactures account for this and other factors when providing recommended tire pressures.


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#21 ·
When you did your math on temp changes vs pressure changes did you use degrees Kelvin? The formula is intended for that. This article gives a great detailed discussion on the issue and even has a handy chart.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cold_inflation_pressure
I think you are going down a path that hopefully few will follow. Seems dangerous to me.
 
#29 ·
I used the English units equivalent of Kelvin, Rankine. You are absolutely right; one must use absolute temperature, either Kelvin or Rankine, and also absolute vs. gauge pressure.

Our scientist friends tend to use the metric units and convert Centigrade to Kelvin (by adding 273 degrees). I'm a retired engineer and tend to think in English/SAE units, i..e. Fahrenheit and Rankine (by adding 460 degrees).

Similarly, absolute pressure = gauge pressure + atmospheric pressure (~ 15 psi).
 
#22 ·
Pick up a non contact thermometer and you can stop and spot check the temperature of the tire anytime. I wish Smartire had kept making the bike version as it gives actual pressure, actual temperature and a "delta pressure" from cold. I have found enough sensor units to keep mine going on my bike for a long time to come.
 
#30 ·
Now wait a minute wethead I am the King of Worry! One of my daughters calls me the 'Master of Caution'!

Very fortunately, there just isn't the real world evidence that it's a problem. So it's not just that I think hte tire manufacturers don't want to be liable for a disaster, it's that you don't hear of this being a problem. It's theoretically plausible, but mostly because we really have nothing to go on but the fact that you just don't see tires blowing up in these sorts of conditions. I think were I to find myself having to ride in 120F ambient in full sun I'd very likely start wondering about the tires because as you point out there very surely is a maximum pressure and temperature they can endure, we just don't know what that is.
 
#32 ·
I think we can go with experience. Plenty of folds ride the Western States in very hot situations and no tire problems of massive explosions have been reported to any degree that comes to the surface. Tread wear yes, blow outs no. :nerd:
 
#33 ·
The TPM is the worst thing ever invented because its misused AND at the same time its a great thing, it can detect a leak while you are zooming down the road.

As a desert rat , i can tell you to expect everything to get very hot. Don't worry about it. If its 115 outside and the pavement is 170 the tires, brakes, swing arm and anything connected to the rear end will be very very hot. Relax, you are not suppose to touch it or use a iffy digital tire gauge to check the pressure on a hot tire. Leave it alone and ride out of the heat to a higher elevation. Any tire in good condition will be a able to handle the heat of the road.

On a side note: I helps to start out with a very accurate gauge... I was on a quest to find an accurate tire gauge like Camel brand from days gone by. Those are long gone and if you find any they are made in China. I was explaining my quest to Lee Parks and he makes a gauge that he guarantees it to be accurate +/- 1 pound. He tests each unit several time for accuracy.

Stay very hydrated out there.
 
#34 ·
The TPM is the worst thing ever invented because its misused...
I contest this opinion, and I know many others share your opinion about this and that I'm in the minority. What I find ironic is that people trust a $30 pressure gauge, and trust their sometimes marginal understanding of what setting cold tire pressure calibrated to an ambient temp of 68F is, over a very sophisticated continuous internal pressure sensor with tire air temperature compensated output. After 65K miles on two bikes w/ TPM I've always found perfect correlation w/ the two different external gauges I own, so I follow BMW's guidance to trust the output from their system, which they clearly imply you should do when you read the manual. I use a high quality Flaig gauge to validate what TPM is displaying every once in a while but it's always been valid for me so I absolutely trust TPM always. What I've not understood is why the need for road-warming of the tire to get TPM to display correct values. Always, if I set my tire to X pressure around 68F ambient, TPM will display X minus 2psi until the tire is warmed, then it's spot on X. I wouldn't own a bike w/o TPM after my experience with it in my two BMW bikes.
 
#36 ·
What are the dangerous parameter of tire temperature?...

What about the PSI/s What would be the high danger?...
Amazing how we manage to spend hours NOT addressing the original subject of these discussions???:frown: I must confess I am as guilty as anyone. Initially, I was happy to see the question due to a selfish reason. My bike (2011 RT) didn't come with TPM. So, being the penny pincher, I purchased a cheap (compared to the BMW version) aftermarket TPM system. It consists of a couple of external valve stem caps and a little digital watch size receiver to mount somewhere on or around your bikes instrument panel.

The set up instructions leave a lot to be desired. I suspect the author's first native language is not English, and the translation is suspect. Installing the small caps (transmitters) on the valve stems was very easy. I'm still pondering how to mount the receiver? However, my "first read" of the instructions is that before this thing can be useful in any way...I must enter certain "Alarm Parameters." Like, LOW PSI...HIGH PSI...HIGH TEMP...

Being intellectually lazy...I was hoping this thread might supply some "rule of thumb" numbers. All manufacturers are constantly working, updating, and improving their products in close competition for our money. Surely...there are some "RULE of THUMB" parameters we can use that translate across brands that don't have to be so precise as to cause a heart attack???

Temperature for example...I don't want my TPM alarming just because the tire gained 10 degrees over ambient. I would like to have it alarm before the tire melts as I'm in the apex of a sharp turn. I also want to know in terms of pressure...high or low...what rate of change would/should cause an alarm...either in a specific number or percentage?

All bikes, makes of tires, pressure gauge tools, etc., will have their individual fine adjustments, but for the original questions/topic of this conversation...I'm not sure we have sufficiently answered them.

These little technical devices should be considered a blessing, made to provide great beneficial information! However, if we fail to understand them, and they become sources of anxiety (worry machines):frown:...then I (we) will probably be better off not carrying the worry machine on my ride.:wink:
 
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#38 ·
I appreciated this post. I think when all is said and done, it appears no one really knows and some 'assume' or 'believe' in unproven and undocumented results.

It may be impossible to figure out who is right, but now that Noel has given my ailment a medical term (Master of Caution) I am going to err in the side of caution on my next desert crossings.

Actually, I dont stay on the bike too long in hot days and make frequent stops. One time in the South somewhere around NC I went into a convenient story, spread my arms out and put my back against the fridge to cool down cause I was getting a little scare that I might be getting hyperthermia...can I tell ya? I was hot as a witche's aaasss.

other times I have poured cold water on me head, soaked my shirt, hide in an a/c establishment for a while...and pray!

At these times, I don't understand what this Sun has against humanity. Last time I past Gila Bend in AZ it was 119. I headed for the Western and parked my bike in the hallway in the shade...flock that!
 
#42 ·
So every 18 wheeler is airing up and airing down when he runs the western states?

Come on guys this is just nuts.

I was always taught to watch PSI rise on TPM. If I see more then a 3-4 PSI rise in the rear I need to look at it and check it. 2-3 or more on the front and need to look at it. I am sure that PSI rise would need adapted to environment(such as dessert riding) but PSI rise is an indication of a underinflated tire.

The tires are made to handle the heat at proper inflation. The secret is what is the proper inflation for your environment? I am pretty sure if I knew I would be running in 100 degree plus heat 40/42 is not going to be what I start out with. I probably would try stock PSI and go from there.
 
#47 · (Edited)
Yes those highway alligators I would bet are recaps 90% of the time if not more.

Max PSI is the MAX cold inflated pressure a tire can be inflated to. It relies on nothing but that fact, Max inflatable pressure.

Now from there weight, ambient temp, road surface and speed come into play.

If your tire is weight rated for your vehicle, and is speed rated for your vehicle, then what ever condition that tire is intended for it has been tested to hold up at the max cold inflated pressure.

A tire generates heat in just driving, add cornering, braking and accelerating hard into and out of corners, and sitting stop and go and you get some heat working. But rolling down a highway at 70 MPH a tire inflated to the withing the max pressure stated would have no issues other then maybe more wear.

I mean again they been making tires for just a couple of years and I am not sure any one here knows better then them how or what a tire will withstand.

I just dont read about a guy a day on his motorcycle dying because his tire got too hot and blew out crossing the desert. And no cars or trucks for that matter.

I think way too much thought over something that gets baked at 300 degrees to get made.

Damn I am trying to figure out how I got across large parts of The Great Basin with no TPS knowing what the PSI or Temp was while I enjoying the hell out of the scenery?
 
#48 ·
I found this in another crotchrocket forum: Some guy claims that Dunlop answer his inquiry after filling out a form...this is what came back:

From Dunlop:
Measured with a probe. ideal temp range for Q3’s would be…
Front tire: 120-180F
Rear tire: 140-190F

Regards,
Consumer Affairs, Motorcycle
Goodyear Dunlop Tires North America, Ltd.200 Innovation Way, Akron, OH 44316



He said these were ideal temperatures for a Q3....whatever that is!
 
#49 ·
The Dunlop Q3 is a sport / track day tire. I think it's an obsolete model now superseded by the Q3+ and Q4.

Not sure about the context of Dunlop's message. It could be just general advice or it could be advice for a track day where one adjusts air pressure to optimize temperature.
 
#51 ·
Well in my travels on "The Net" I went to Doran TPMS. I used them on my FJR 1300 and very good stuff and service.

They do not seem to make a specific motorcycle one any longer.

However on their High Temp Warning Setting they use 175 degrees for vehicles as default with the ability to change that if desired.

Not saying that is right or wrong but if a company dedicated to TPMS I would think they got that number from a good source or data that has been collected. Like I said a tire is baked in a mold at 300 degrees so 175 degrees of internal temp as a warning sounds reasonable to me.
 
#52 ·
I was surprised at the lack of any tire temp information from any of the tire makers I looked at. However, I think the bottom line is that if you inflate your tires to a pressure in the range from the vehicle makers recommendation (as long as the vehicle maker isn’t Ford) up to the tire makers maximum COLD inflation pressure and don’t exceed the gross weight rating of the vehicle and don’t tow a trailer, you will be find under any reasonable conditions up to and including riding across Death Valley.

If you choose to do things like reduce the pressure in a hot tire, ride your bike overloaded, tow a trailer or do anything else contrary to what the vehicle maker specifically allows, then you are now a test driver and you are on your own.
 
#54 ·
Some Tire Temp Info

I have some familiarity -- if not, alas, expertise -- with many of the sub-topics discussed in this thread. I think I can provide some useful resources for anyone really interested in learning more, though.

[Note: I don't know how many posts I have to have here to be allowed to post links. And I only post here every few years, so it could be awhile. If you want to follow any of the things that seem similar to links, well, I bet you can figure it out.]


1) LDR Workshop Article:

Tom Austin, IBA Chief Technical Advisor, has this "Tire Pressure Monitoring" article (date of publication unknown) on the web:

dubba dubba dubba dot ironbutt.com/ibmagazine/IBMag4-p76-83.pdf

This is an eight-page PDF file, and contains a wealth of information, and I think those who are serious about gathering information on this topic should read it.

On the second page is a nice chart that gives examples of "The Effect of Temperature on Tire Pressure."

Mr. Austin also has this to say, early on:

"During summertime weather, the air temperature inside the rear tire of a motorcycle running at freeway speeds may be 150°F or higher. If the tire pres- sure was set to 40 psi after the bike had been parked overnight at 60°F, the tire pressure would rise to 49.5 psi when the tire temperature increases to 150°F. On a heavy touring bike, like a Honda Gold Wing, the rear tire temperature can easily reach 180°F at freeway speeds on a hot (90-100°F) summer day. A tire set at 40 psi in the cool of the morning would increase to 52.6 psi. It’s difficult to find published specifications on the maxi- mum “safe” tire temperature, but, based on the warning levels used on two different TPMS brands, 176-194°F is as hot has you would want to run."


2) Tire Warmers:

You may want to look at some tire warmers, to gain additional information in a roundabout way.

For instance, if you go to ...

dubba dubba dubba dot motodracing.com/pro-series-single-temp-tire-warmers

... you will see that it can be set as high as 185°F. Of course, as a result of conduction losses, the air inside the tire may not actually get to the same temp, but it will be very close.

In any event, this should give you an idea that tires can handle much more heat -- and hence pressure -- than you might think after glancing at the max (cold!) PSI figures on the side of a tire.


3) Motorcycle Ads:

Take a look at this video, for instance, by Husqvarna of its 701 SUPERMOTO (from 2015):

dubba dubba dubba dot youtube.com/watch?v=tGh_OHlpg3Q

At 0:54, the graphic shows 84.2°C as the TYRE-TEMP. That's 184°F for us non-metric folk. At least in the video, the tire does not explode.

Note that motorcycle tires will undergo a much more dramatic change, in terms of the temp of the air inside, than car or truck tires. This is because, well, I'm not an engineer, but I'd postulate that we're dealing with an awful lot of additional flex going on here, what with the leaning over, the cornering forces, the generally greater power-to-weight resulting in big-time acceleration flex in the rear, big-time braking flex in the front, and that sort of thing.

This is pretty easy to verify lately, as a lot of cars these days have individual-tire pressure readouts on the dash. I haven't had an actual Beemer since owning an R850R from '97-'00, so I don't know whether your readouts show actual pressure. Me, I've added a Doran 360M TPMS to one bike, and a FOBO TPMS to another, and I can see that the pressures go way up after a spirited ride. Not like the Husky supermoto, but up. In contrast, the readouts on my two-year-old car go up at most 2 or 3 PSI during a drive.


4) Easy Calc:

If you want to figure out a cold-to-another-cold PSI setting ... ah, that's an awkward sentence.

What I mean to say is something like this. You've just come out of your motel room in Death Valley, very early in the morning, and it's say, 60°F. But you figure most of your riding that day will be at, say, 90°F, and you want to set your (cold) tire pressures for, say, 40 PSI ... right now, at 60°F, but pretending that it's 90°F. How do you do that?

Well, you make use of Gay-Lussac's (part of the underpinnings of the ideal gas law). What you need to do is add the ambient atmospheric pressure to that 40 PSI gauge pressure, convert those 60°F and 90°F temps to an absolute scale, i.e., Rankine or Kelvin, note the ratio of the absolute temp difference, apply that ratio to the sum of that 40 PSI plus atmospheric pressure figure, and then, from that result, subtract atmospheric pressure, to give you your desired gauge pressure.

Thus, in this particular example, if you're filling your cold tire while it's 60°F out, and you want to fill it 40 PSI as if it were 90°F out, you would pump it up such that your gauge reads 37.0 PSI. That is, if you just went back to bed, and woke up three hours later, when it's now 90°F outside, and put your gauge on the tire, it would read 40 PSI (because the air in the tire had heated up to 90°F while you were napping).

If anyone's interested in this sort of calculation, I have a page on my web site, on which you can just enter the parameters in question, and some JavaScript will do the math:

dubba dubba dubba dot billanddot.com/tire-pressure-vs-temp-calc.html


That's all I got. I hope someone found something here helpful, or at least interesting.

Cheers,

Bill P.