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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This bike just arrived. I bought it unseen with assurances about its condition and it would seem that the description was 'inaccurate' to be kind. Much of the wiring has no loom tape, there are random colours spliced into the loom and a multitude of issues.

One of the main ones is no reverse operation. This might be a clue...

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As far as the wires being exposed, I have found the loom tape or plastic shielding around a lot of the wiring on my bike is very brittle and falls off the wires when touched. Being 20 years old I expect this is a common problem for most bikes.

I bought a parts bike that had wiring like what you describe, guess it comes back to previous owners how don't take the time to neaten things up properly so they present well and are easy to do maintenance on.

As far as you not having reverse, the reverse modules do go bad on these bike quite regularly, it could be your reverse module. Search the forum for reverse controller/module and you will find troubleshooting steps to pinpoint if it is the controller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
As far as the wires being exposed, I have found the loom tape or plastic shielding around a lot of the wiring on my bike is very brittle and falls off the wires when touched. Being 20 years old I expect this is a common problem for most bikes.
Yes, I see that after exposing more of it!

I bought a parts bike that had wiring like what you describe, guess it comes back to previous owners how don't take the time to neaten things up properly so they present well and are easy to do maintenance on.
Baffles me that they have no pride whatever. Lots of the bodges were covered in yellow PVC tape.

As far as you not having reverse, the reverse modules do go bad on these bike quite regularly, it could be your reverse module. Search the forum for reverse controller/module and you will find troubleshooting steps to pinpoint if it is the controller.
Looking at the wiring, it may be to do with that. The stray red wire comes from the general area and the diagnostic plug was floating about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
More stripping today for the service. Lots more bodges found. The radio system didn't work so I rewired that, then found that the plug from stingray to handlebar socket was plugged back into the CD changer socket. That will explain the blown fuse in the back of the radio! The handlebar loom was pulled down and connected to the CD changer loom. That all seems to work now.

The cooling system is filled with clean water, so that's a bit of a worry. I has been in there for at least six years.

When I stripped it for the spark plugs, I have found no cover and also a stray brown wire. It looks like it has broken apart from somewhere, but I can't work out where it may have come from. Any clues?
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Rear brake was found to be faulty and fluid dripping. My first assumption was master cylinder, but it turned out to be the brake flexible:

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The Quick disconnects had been removed and a standard pair of joints substituted. I did mark which was which, but that doesn't mean it was right of course. Can someone confirm which is feed and which is return please?

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The wiring mess around the battery seems to be earthing the two Black/Yellows. I wonder where the original earthing point should be please? Then I can remove all of that. One other issues is that it turns over slowly even with a good battery. That suggests an earth off or high resistance.

What colour is colour scheme 739? I would guess that it used to be Champagne.

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General pictures of the rest:

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When I stripped it for the spark plugs, I have found no cover and also a stray brown wire. It looks like it has broken apart from somewhere, but I can't work out where it may have come from. Any clues?
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The Quick disconnects had been removed and a standard pair of joints substituted. I did mark which was which, but that doesn't mean it was right of course. Can someone confirm which is feed and which is return please?
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About the brown wire near the throttle bodies:
in this area, given position and length of wire, my best guess is this wire should attached to throttle-bodies with a small round connector - see 1st photo below. Remember than BMW will create a ground to almost any part that is insulated by rubber mounting to the rest (like you also see on coil pack AND he funny spring inside the valve cover).

About the 2 hoses over engine block leading to fuel quick connect:
Unless the previous monkey who worked on that bike, made another mess out of this.... normally the most forward hose on right side would be the most forward on the other side of the engine (attached to fuel rail on left side of engine). This most forward hose is the pressure side from tank to fuel-rail - it should be attached to most inside nipple coming out under fuel-pump flange. See 2nd photo below... take care as the pump flange is seen upside down , you want to use proper output out of tank...


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks John, really helpful information. I certainly have lots to do, whoever was in there before didn't have the faintest idea!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Service was completed this morning, except for the brakes as I am waiting for new flexibles to come in. Drain plugs needed plenty of muscle to undo and I snapped an Allen key in the gearbox filler plug! Clearly the previous gorilla hadn't come across torque wrenches, nor loom tape previously.

I refitted the earth tag to the injector bracket and tidied up the wiring. I found three connectors floating about loose, two connected and one not. Should the connected ones not be captive somewhere? The other loose plug only looks like it belongs somewhere. I think it is green and green/yellow?

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The other loose plug only looks like it belongs somewhere. I think it is green and green/yellow?
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View attachment 173188
About the photo above: it should be a 2 pins connector having GREEN-White / GREEN-Blue wires:

All 4 injector connectors look the same except for minor wire length difference because of location they go (injector 1 to 4 front front to rear). They all have the same wire colors for their 2 wires (GREEN-WHITE and YELLOW-GRAY). Because these BOSCH MOTRONIC are batch injection system, you could plug any of these 4 into any injectors and it would work the same. However, the wire length from harness is the clue which goes where (avoid undue pulling or stress on wires).f

By the fuel rail, there is also another 2 pins connector that looks identical to the 4 injectors connector mentioned above, this one has different color wires (1 is GREEN-WHITE, but the other wire is GREEN-BLUE).

If your K1200LT was not built for the USA market , then it does NOT have a tank venting valve in front of the throttle bodies. In such case, your loose 2 pins connector can be left opened and zip-tied to fuel rail. This is the way all K1200LT made for market outside of USA are shipped from factory (no charcoal canister under Top-Case and no pulse vent valve by the TVA (idle actuator).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
About the photo above: it should be a 2 pins connector having GREEN-White / GREEN-Blue wires:
I will need to check again.

All 4 injector connectors look the same except for minor wire length difference because of location they go (injector 1 to 4 front front to rear). They all have the same wire colors for their 2 wires (GREEN-WHITE and YELLOW-GRAY). Because these BOSCH MOTRONIC are batch injection system, you could plug any of these 4 into any injectors and it would work the same. However, the wire length from harness is the clue which goes where (avoid undue pulling or stress on wires).
I did wonder if an injector connector was off.

By the fuel rail, there is also another 2 pins connector that looks identical to the 4 injectors connector mentioned above, this one has different color wires (1 is GREEN-WHITE, but the other wire is GREEN-BLUE).
If your K1200LT was not built for the USA market , then it does NOT have a tank venting valve in front of the throttle bodies. In such case, your loose 2 pins connector can be left opened and zip-tied to fuel rail. This is the way all K1200LT made for market outside of USA are shipped from factory (no charcoal canister under Top-Case and no pulse vent valve by the TVA (idle actuator).
I'll bet that's what it is, being a British version.

Should the floating connector pairs be captive somewhere? I have cable (zip) tied the right hand one, but can't see where the left hand pair might be fixed?

I have loomed up a lot of the bare wiring, looks far better now. There is an interesting mod at the the bop box, with a length of domestic wiring flex going up into it and connected with a chocolate block connector to another piece that is wrapped around either the brake or tail light socket contacts. My guess without testing is that the high level brake light was duff and that bodge was to restore it, rather than finding the fault.
 

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Should the floating connector pairs be captive somewhere? I have cable (zip) tied the right hand one, but can't see where the left hand pair might be fixed?
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I am not 100% sure to understand what you mean above by "floating connector pairs...."
see 1st attached photo below: I am assuming your refer to connector by the YELLOW arrow I have added to your photo. The one on the left is for cruise-control micro-switch bolted to throttle-bodies for the closing/return throttle cable. It should also be attached / tied to fuel rail.

At factory for both the K1200RS and K1200LT, most of that bundle of wires is attached / tied to fuel rail, including the loose one for fuel-tank venting valve we discussed in earlier post. In chapter 7 of CLYMER shop-manual, you see many photos of this general area - however many of these photos have been taken from a K1200RS with USA specs having the round tank venting valve just above fuel-rail - so keep this in mind when reading CLYMER.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks John. By floating, I meant floating in the air; not attached to anything substantial. I will cable tie it all up tomorrow.
 
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