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Finally have some room cleared to be able to work on my LT. I need suggestions on which torque wrench and lift to buy. Thanks.
 

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I still use my Snap-On click types left over from my aviation days and can recommend them. Less pricey alternative, maybe.....

I have a Handy-Lift which I trust and heartily recommend. Consider adding the extensions which widen the work surface and makes riding the bike up possible.
 

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Can we ask, what type of work are you planning? or just general maint.?

Zeke
 

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I have two Craftsman torque wrenches. I bought them specifically because they both have the same item in them that I prefer.
It is a window with a dial inside that tells you what torque you have adjusted the wrench to numerically. The torque value shows in both foot pounds and Newton meters. The second torque wrench in inch-pounds and the equivalent in Newton meters
I don't have to try and figure out what the Newton meter value is on that external spinning collar on the Snap-On or other wrenches in the same style. I see it numerically in the window under the equivalent ft/lb value.
I do have to include that I bought these before Sears sold the Craftsman line of tools to Lowes. I know Lowes still sells the Craftsman line. I haven't looked to see if the torque wrenches have changed.
 

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I have two Craftsman torque wrenches. I bought them specifically because they both have the same item in them that I prefer.
It is a window with a dial inside that tells you what torque you have adjusted the wrench to numerically. The torque value shows in both foot pounds and Newton meters. The second torque wrench in inch-pounds and the equivalent in Newton meters
I don't have to try and figure out what the Newton meter value is on that external spinning collar on the Snap-On or other wrenches in the same style. I see it numerically in the window under the equivalent ft/lb value.
I do have to include that I bought these before Sears sold the Craftsman line of tools to Lowes. I know Lowes still sells the Craftsman line. I haven't looked to see if the torque wrenches have changed.
To Dedgar's point, I have a Craftsman torque wrench with the external ring. Over time, the numbers have worn off the ring to the point where you can no longer read many of them. I would never purchase another Craftsman torque wrench with the ring on it.
 

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Finally have some room cleared to be able to work on my LT. I need suggestions on which torque wrench and lift to buy. Thanks.
I own ten torque wrenches from cheap Harbor Freight, Snap-On, Craftsman, and Precision Instruments, and others. Most work reasonably well. I have tested all of mine against a Snap-On torque calibration tester and they all were spot on. (Even the cheap Harbor Freight brands!)

There are different styles depending on your needs. Click, beam, dial, and electronic torque wrenches available. Typically for a motorcycle you need a range for inch pounds and foot pounds, though almost any good 10-150 lbs/ft. will get you started.

https://bestreviews.com/best-torque-wrenches
 

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You will probably need at least two. Final drive jam nuts and pivot pins are tightened to 118 Ft Lbs so you will need one that can do that comfortably. The Pinion shaft nut is 147 Ft Lb and the highest value I know so far on the LT is a ball joint on the forks at 170 Ft Lbs so keep that in mind if you may ever want to do any replacement or disassembly of those parts. The ball joint is not a normal failure but there have been some and most do not pull the pinion when replacing the FD crown bearing unless the seal is leaking. You will also want one to do the smaller torque values as the big wrenches are not accurate or do not go low enough to do a 20 Ft Lb bolt. There are also some very small values like 9 Nm or 80 inch lb. That is 6.6 Ft Lbs so that makes 3 separate wrenches usually to adequately cover the values you are going to run into. I have not been overly impressed with the Harbor Freight wrenches but they would probably get you by if they work.

My wrenches are
1/4 inch drive inch lb wrench 20 to 200 inch lb
3/8 drive 100 - 750 inch lb ( up to 63 Ft Lb )
3/8 drive something to 150 Ft Lb for most service items.
1/2 drive something to 250 Ft Lb ( Bertha )
 

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2005 K1200LT
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You only really need a lift if it is hard for you to get up off the floor because the tool you need is on the other side of the bike. I have a scooty stool that I motor around with now since I have a really hard time getting up off the floor. That is also why I don't camp! But if a lift you must have, a Handy you should get (or at least a good knock off).
 

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I have three Craftsman clicker torque wrenches, which have all been accurate and reliable until I loaned the largest one to a “friend”. Apparently he used it as a breaker bar and broke an internal part in the ratchet, and did not bother to tell me what he had done. I identified the part I needed to repair the torque wrench ratchet, and set about trying to buy the repair kit. After at least 20 phone calls, I concluded that the parts were NLA, and Lowes did not support Craftsman tools purchased previously from Sears, contrary to rumors and their claims. I did find a repair kit on eBay, purchased it and swore I would never again loan a tool. If a new torque wrench is required, I recommend Harbor Freight Tools based on YouTube comparison reviews I looked at, and my own accuracy tests.

I have had a Harbor Freight Tools hydraulic motorcycle lift/work table for well over 10 years. It has worked flawlessly and saved me many dollars compared to a few “brand name” lifts I considered. I replaced the included wheel clamp with a much more substantial unit a machinist friend made. That is a worthwhile upgrade I would make to any motorcycle work table. My final advice is always load & unload your MC with an assistant bracing the bike on the other side. It is very easy to lose control of a large MC during the awkward loading process.
 

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I have a Tekton, a Husky and a Neiko which have different ranges
The Tekton are guaranteed for life.
I lost one of the screws holding the head of my Tekton wrench. I sent them a picture and they sent me a new one right away,

I have Red Rock lift from Princess Auto in Canada. I think it's also available under different names.
It's a compact lift that can be folded and stored away when not needed. The table ones are basically fixed and use a car space.
It works manually or with a compressor.
It is too narrow to put the bike on the center stand, so I made myself an adapter that I can install when needed.
One other advantage is that you can work closer to the bike.
It has the same foot base as a regular table


The only draw back is that you cannot ride the bike on it and I need someone to help me when I want to load it on it. (Which is also safer) Unloading is easy.
IMHO The forward anchor points could be more forward since this bike should be tied down at the forks and not the handle bars. Although putting the bike on the center stand moves it back and puts the anchor points in a better position.

YMMV
 

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I looked at HF lifts and ended up paying twice as much for a Handy. The HF lift just felt too flimsy for me for a bike the weight of the LT. My handy is rock solid with the LT on it. If I had only bikes that weighed 600 lbs or less, I probably would buy an HF.

I have an old Craftsman 3/8’ drive torque wrench that works pretty well and a 1/2” drive beam style and a 1/2” Proto that is quite nice. The HF wrenches seem fine from an accuracy perspective, but the one’s I have used felt gritty when turning the handle to change settings. My Sears and Proto just feel smooth and of higher quality, but I can’t say they are any better at properly torquing a fastener.
 
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