BMW Luxury Touring Community banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have been gazing at my K1200LT with the seats pulled off, trying to figure out where the best place is to mount my Fuzeblock, and I can't figure out a good spot to mount it. I looked around, and the only placement I saw that was specific to a K1200LT was in a tray under the front seat, which seems nice enough, but was wondering if anyone else had solved the problem differently. It doesn't look like I can mount it under the back seat, since the clearance looks suspect, and I really don't see a good place under the front seat.

Any other suggestions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,104 Posts
I have mine right above the battery box, with wires long enough to move it out of the way to get to the battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
sheldan2 said:
I have mine right above the battery box, with wires long enough to move it out of the way to get to the battery.
When you say above the battery box, do you mean actually mounting to the metal battery hold-down bracket? Or did you put some sort of shelf thingie (technical term) on top of the battery to mount it to? Would you perchance have a photo of the installation?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,681 Posts
I put mine under the rear seat where the canister used to be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Wow! They must have done some serious under the seat changes in the later LTs (mine's a 2003). That doesn't look anything like what I have under the seats. :(

[EDIT] Wait a sec, that is actually under the trunk, isn't it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,165 Posts
I had a Blue Sea fuse block sitting on top of the battery, and as someone else posted with wires all coming from one end, and long enough to lift the fuse block out of the way to service or remove the battery. The bottom of the box is insulated, so it is not really necessary to hard mount it. A piece of foam under it would be nice, but not necessary.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,623 Posts
jsb said:
I have been gazing at my K1200LT with the seats pulled off, trying to figure out where the best place is to mount my Fuzeblock, and I can't figure out a good spot to mount it. I looked around, and the only placement I saw that was specific to a K1200LT was in a tray under the front seat, which seems nice enough, but was wondering if anyone else had solved the problem differently. It doesn't look like I can mount it under the back seat, since the clearance looks suspect, and I really don't see a good place under the front seat.

Any other suggestions?
My installation is pictured at the Fuzeblocks site. I used a K-box which works well, but is pricey for what you get. However, I like the neat installation and have since mounted some other components in the box. By leaving enough slack in the leads, I can easily move the K-box up out of the way for access to the battery,

http://www.ccmotorcycles.com/
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,428 Posts
Most have mounted them in the same location. Under the trunk, there is enough room to smuggle a few un mentionables. Add to this, making a "clean" install is easier )Not that mine is! And you will not have to remove the FB to get to the battery... I have a Y2K, but I am not sure if you have the canister (on an '03)....




On second thought, Its just plain nasty under there! :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
jsb said:
Wow! They must have done some serious under the seat changes in the later LTs (mine's a 2003). That doesn't look anything like what I have under the seats. :(

[EDIT] Wait a sec, that is actually under the trunk, isn't it?

As you say.. under the trunk for both of the posts in this thread.. I might suggest a slightly more accessible area is on the left or right side under the passenger seat and above the side bags. I have my intercom placed on one side and fuse block on the other.. both can be serviced or a fuse replaced a bit easier even if there is less room any of the common fuse blocks can be made to fit and as it is all plastic back there electrical short worries are not present and I just use Velcro to attach them.. if you need to pull out to get to a connector, it is easily done. soon as I tear her down again I will try to post some pic's .. with new fuseblock from the group buy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,165 Posts
I would never mount a fuse block where the top box has to be removed to get to it. If you blow a fuse, it should be EASY to get to. There is plenty of room over the battery, and you can change a fuse (or pull one to work on a circuit) just by lifting the seat. Having to remove the top box to do that just seems impractical at best.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
So here are the three potential spots:

  1. On top of the battery.
  2. Under the rear seat, along the edge, on top of the side boxes.
  3. Under the trunk.
On top of the battery is good due to its accessibility. It's easy to check a fuse, easy to add a new connection. However, it strikes me as being a bit of a rats nest there, and it makes me vaguely uneasy to put something right on top of the battery, it just seems like its begging for a a short there. The tray gives some separation, and that may be the way I'll go.

Under the rear seat is pretty good due to the fact there is enough room to lay things out a little more cleanly. I am installing my Autocom there, and there is quite a bit of room. With only two screws to remove and a plug to unplug, the acessibility, while not optimal, is pretty good. I like this one also.

Under the trunk is great because is it clean, out of the way, and leave room for all the farkles you could ever want in all the other spots. Its drawback is its inaccessibility. No fun on the side of the road. Maybe I should mount the Autocom back there, leaving one of the under the rear seat spots open for a future, as yet to be unnamed farkle.

Of course, I may be just thinking too much about this, and just need to stick the damn thing somewhere, anywhere. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,610 Posts
dshealey said:
I would never mount a fuse block where the top box has to be removed to get to it. If you blow a fuse, it should be EASY to get to. There is plenty of room over the battery, and you can change a fuse (or pull one to work on a circuit) just by lifting the seat. Having to remove the top box to do that just seems impractical at best.
Yes SIr, me thinks the same! What is the idea of installing fuses in a location that you have to pull apart half a bike to get access to them...:confused:

In the attached pics there are a total of 16 switched and 4 unswitched fuses in three different blocks. One in the front just behind the high beam and the other two under the front seat (installed against the rear fender.)
The main idea in my installations has been of course the fact that these fuse blocks are not too big in size. I have needed space for other gadgets as well...
The switched blocks are fed by on 70 Amp main relay with 6 mm2 (about 9 AWG) cable.

Regards
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,428 Posts
pozo_izquierdo said:
There are a total of 16 switched and 4 unswitched fuses in three different blocks.:confused:
Regards
:confused: ? While your prowess as a fakle engineer is widely known to be far and above most mortals, I pray that you make a well detailed schematic of all the additions. Can you imagine the questions that will get posted from the next "newbie" that gets your bike when you trade up to the K1600?
I can see it now. What is this connector? Where does this go? What brown wire do I cut???????? Is this OEM? :D

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,610 Posts
You are absolutely right Steve! And that is why I did this:

http://picasaweb.google.fi/pozoizquierdo/ALLNEWELECTRICALS#

Now everything is coded and all the cables and devices can be found in the attached Excel file ( I have the printouts of course in my toolbox for just in case I don'r happen to remember all the cable codes...:p ) The drawing is one of the six pages.

If you need help with the unit code abbreviations..:
R = relay, CN = connector, B = ballast, F = fuse, S = switch, D = diode, O = outlet and C = is cable

My original Excel file was too large so I had to remove one spreadsheet from the file, so it's not complete...:eek:

Regards
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,428 Posts
Of coarse you did! What the hell was I thinking!!!! :histerica


pozo_izquierdo said:
You are absolutely right Steve! And that is why I did this:

http://picasaweb.google.fi/pozoizquierdo/ALLNEWELECTRICALS#

Now everything is coded and all the cables and devices can be found in the attached Excel file ( I have the printouts of course in my toolbox for just in case I don'r happen to remember all the cable codes...:p ) The drawing is one of the six pages.

If you need help with the unit code abbreviations..:
R = relay, CN = connector, B = ballast, F = fuse, S = switch, D = diode, O = outlet and C = is cable

My original Excel file was too large so I had to remove one spreadsheet from the file, so it's not complete...:eek:

Regards
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,681 Posts
I don't mind the fuse block under the area of the back case as i took it off. I does take a little more time to get to it but I don't like the over the battery area to much of a rats nest. One place to mount an autocom is over the top of the radio plenty of room there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,337 Posts
+1 on the on top of the side cases underneath the passenger section of the seat. I mounted a BlueSea 6 position there, and used two sheet metal screws into the plastic to fasten it. To put in there you need to move the plastic molding for the side case, but once it's in you can access the fuses easily and it's always out of the way.
I don't have my pictures anymore though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,165 Posts
Here is my Blue Sea box on top of the battery. Easy access to fuses, and Easy access to the battery. The trick was to run all the wires from the fuse box to the front to allow lifting it up to get to the battery. There was enough slack in the wires to easily remove the battery if needed. Since the bottom of the box is plastic, no danger of shorting anything. After I took the pictures I put a thin piece of foam under it.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,206 Posts
Attached shows how I installed. (I photoshopped somebody'else photo to show my installation) I had to move the hole into the plastic tray to the other side since 30amp in line fuse wire from the battery was not long enough.

jsb said:
I have been gazing at my K1200LT with the seats pulled off, trying to figure out where the best place is to mount my Fuzeblock, and I can't figure out a good spot to mount it. I looked around, and the only placement I saw that was specific to a K1200LT was in a tray under the front seat, which seems nice enough, but was wondering if anyone else had solved the problem differently. It doesn't look like I can mount it under the back seat, since the clearance looks suspect, and I really don't see a good place under the front seat.

Any other suggestions?
 

Attachments

1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top