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I have been thinking about Castrol syntec. Would I be ok to change the oil every 6K miles with synthetic?
 

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Sure

That's my plan... I'm using Mobil1 15W50 syn and plan to change every 6K

I can't think of a reason not to... I also plan to do the trans and diff at the same interval....

Spence
 

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2wheeler said:
I have been thinking about Castrol syntec. Would I be ok to change the oil every 6K miles with synthetic?
The way I read the owners manual, it's OK to change oil at 6,000 mile intervals even if you're using ordinary petroleum-based oil.

- Bob
 

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Trans and Diff

Probably could wait on the trans. But I'd change the Diff with every oil change.

The oil would probably last a lot longer (forever), but the reason for changing it is to inspect it for metal bits... The precursor for rear end failure... You'll see some fine bits in on the trans magnet and that's ok cause there's lots of metal to metal stuff slamming around in the trans.. But anything more than a little black sludge on the Diff magnet and it's bearing time before failure....

Thoretically without contamination (water,carbon, etc..) the oil in the trans and diff would last a long, long, long time before it would really cause any problems. People drive their cars hundreds of thousands of miles and never change the diff oil...

Spence
 

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I'll be switching to Mobil 1 20-50W V Twin synthetic at my 6000 mile service. As for change intervals, if your bike is under warranty I'd suggest sticking to the 6000 mile interval. After that the only real way to determine oil change intevals is to spend a few dollars and do a oil analyst. You may find that you change your oil less frequently then 6000 miles. Its really the only way you can determine when you need to change your oil. With the $$$$ that synthetic costs I want it to go as far as possible.
 

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On a related note, does anyone use oil in their drive shaft. Normally it is a "dry" shaft I think, but when I had the rear end drive fail, my mechanic put full racing synthetic oil in the rear end drive and about 150mls into the drive shaft as well because he noticed all the grease had spun off from the joint. So far there is no problems, just wondered if others had done this too, and what everyones thoughts are.
 

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2wheeler said:
I have been thinking about Castrol syntec. Would I be ok to change the oil every 6K miles with synthetic?
I used Castrol Syntec, and changed every 6K. It is a great oil, and I could get it closer to home, for a little less money than the BMW synth. I had been using earlier.

It is also my opinion that anyone changing oil more often than the BMW recommended 6K either rides in very harsh dusty condidions, or has money and time to waste. There is NO good reason other than harsh conditions to change earlier, synthetic or other.

I had my engine apart at 100,000 miles for a strange reason, not oil related, and engine wear was for all practical purposes non existant! I put it back together with the original rod and main bearings as there was no measurable wear in them. Most amazingly, even the ring gaps were still within INSTALL tolerances. I never changed oil at less than 6,000 miles, sometimes went longer.
 

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BrianD said:
On a related note, does anyone use oil in their drive shaft. Normally it is a "dry" shaft I think, but when I had the rear end drive fail, my mechanic put full racing synthetic oil in the rear end drive and about 150mls into the drive shaft as well because he noticed all the grease had spun off from the joint. So far there is no problems, just wondered if others had done this too, and what everyones thoughts are.

???????
There is no way to put oil in the "Drive Shaft". The only thing that can be lubed in any way in the drive shaft assembly is lube of the splines, which are not lubed with oil, but special greases. They do not require periodic service at all, as the earlier splines did. The universal joints are sealed units, no way to lube them.

At 100,000 miles, mine still looked new, and still had sufficient grease on them, but I cleaned them and re-lubed with the newer BMW recommended lubricant.
 

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Still changing engine oil and AMSOIL filter every 12,000 miles (AMSOIL AMV 20W50 synthetic motorcycle oil) and transmission and shaftdrive oil (AMSOIL synthetic SVG 75W90) every 36,000 miles in my 2000 K1200LT. Will switch to the new and improved AMSOIL MCV 20W50 in a thousand miles. Have 124,000 miles and seems to run and shift better every day. No engine/transmission/final drive problems yet. Shifts perfectly. No valve adjustments either. K&N air filter gets cleaned and relubed every 50,000 miles. Changed fuel filter at 100,000 miles. Sparkplugs every 20,000 miles. Tires every 12,000 miles. I thought this was a high maintenance problem plagued motorcycle? It does get dirty though.
 

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I use Shell Rotella 5W40 Synthetic available at my local Walmart in one gallon containers along with OEM BMW oil filter. Engine oil/filter changed at ten thousand mile intervals, transmission and rear differential changed at twenty thousand mile intervals using Mobil 1 75W90 syntectic gear oil. Oh yeah, cannot forget to plug my ole Caterpiller oil analysis performed at each engine oil change.
 

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Usual Results of Oil Analysis

What is your usual results of the oil at 10K intervals?
What is your driving style?
What is your average mpg?
 

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2wheeler said:
Is the tranny necessary every 6K? Manual says every 12K.
The Final Drive oil should be changed at least every 6K (and I sometimes do it earlier if I am going on a long trip or just completed a long one). It is cheap insurance against destroying the complete final drive unit (takes just 1/4 qt.) . That way you can keep an eye on the condition of the oil coming out, checking for excessive metallic flakes--- a sure sign of the bearing going south. I caught mine at 96K and got by with just replacing the bearing and am now at 118K.

Norman Jones at Engle Motors (KC) gave me this tip many miles ago, and it has been good advice. Norman also suggested BMW Synthetic 75-140W, and that is what I use in tranny and rear drive.
 

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oil change frequency

As I understand it, synthetic oil or fossil oil should still be changed at 6k intervals. Even though the synthetic oil keeps its lubrication properties at higher engine temps (shouldn't be a problem with water cooled engine), it still picks up moisture, junk like a fossil oil does. The filter also needs changing at normal frequencies. I like using synthetic oils, but it's the "blood" of the engine and even though it's more costly it's worth it IMHO.
 

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The oil analysis is a good idea if your style of riding is consistent. Mine varies from commuting daily to long rides (several days) through all kinds of dust and conditions. These types of riding can have different effects on oil, so I'm a strong believer in "better safe than sorry."
 

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rglassma said:
What is your usual results of the oil at 10K intervals?
What is your driving style?
What is your average mpg?
1) To quote from Caterpillar: "No corrective action required" at 10K intervals.

2) 70-75 MPH whilst droning along the interstate. As fast as I can safely stand it while corner carving.

3) 44-46 MPG

BTW; the CAT analysis provides two areas of information: 1) metal wear measured in PPM (parts per million). 2) condition of oil which is too detailed to go into here. For more information please go to: www.caterpillar.com
 

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2wheeler said:
I have been thinking about Castrol syntec. Would I be ok to change the oil every 6K miles with synthetic?
Mobil 1 15W-50 every 6k
 

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****** 20w50 and an OEM filter. I change every 5000 miles just because it's easier to keep up with.

Tim Reed
02 Toscana Green "The Toad"
 

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Royal Purple, engine, trans, & diff.
 
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