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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Doug and Dell got to go to the artic, John got a new apartment ( why to they call them that when they are so close together?)
Others get to play Badges I dont need....

I get to build an new school

Some pics from today The first shows the pad at 7:30 AM the lst shows it at 6:30 PM

Tired but not too bad for some old horseshoers.

Chuck
 

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Damn Chuck, that's great progress for one day! :D

Probably be open for biz on Monday?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Ha Ha Hal thats not funny !!! I start a new class on the 6th of Aug WE leased back the original Property untill the 31st of Aug.

By then we have to be Moved! IN?

" Good mornng Students" " we are now engaed in an experement in education we will Teach travel and SLEEP in the school Vans. Quit snveling students in Biafera have no vans." " NO Jimmy you should have done that Before we left."


Chuck

Chuck Homeles in Sacramento/ Plymouth
 

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Of course I had to take a ride up there and supervise for awhile... :D They are making very rapid progress!



In this picture Chuck is told that "it's only 6" off..."
 

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<Start thread hijack>
Hey, another Lodian! Welcome Roger!

< /end hijack> :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
RaffyK said:
Wow. That's some motivated construction crew. Glad I saw that one pic of the one beam holding up the other two. Now I know how it's done.\\So, what torque values are used to tighten the nuts at the base (I know, that didn't sound right) of the beams?
RAFFY
The Bolts in this building are not torqued to a spicific number rather we are using ( engeneers idea not mine) the "Snug tightend Joint" methoud sort of what the average iron worker can do with a spud wrench. bolts are over sized to allow for variences ( I hope.)

Chuck
 

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There is a "torque washer" that takes the guess work out of "is it tight enough". Used to be accepted by most building deptartments in lieu of hiring an "independent testing lab" to verify the "average".
Fun handeling hot steel on summer days. Wait till you get to the sheeting.
Be sure to block your sidewall girts for height and level prior to installing sheeting.
Just trying to help without getting dirty.
 

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If you hang around Doug long enough you will know the ins and outs of construction. But wait, I did hang around Doug for a while. I guess I am a slow learner.

Very impressive project, Chuck. Are you going to have a "move in" party?

dougholck said:
There is a "torque washer" that takes the guess work out of "is it tight enough". Used to be accepted by most building deptartments in lieu of hiring an "independent testing lab" to verify the "average".
Fun handeling hot steel on summer days. Wait till you get to the sheeting.
Be sure to block your sidewall girts for height and level prior to installing sheeting.
Just trying to help without getting dirty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Dell said:
If you hang around Doug long enough you will know the ins and outs of construction. But wait, I did hang around Doug for a while. I guess I am a slow learner.

Very impressive project, Chuck. Are you going to have a "move in" party?

Dell you bet this is how it is going to happen:

Good morning students - grab all your tools your forge all the shoes the steel all MY tools all your clothes and your beds all your food no it's ok to leave it IN the frige's and the washerdryerdesks ...................................................... ............................cause tomorrow we wont be here.

Once we are done the beer is on me ......... No Johney there is only that one beer. did'nt your momy teach you to share?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
dougholck said:
There is a "torque washer" that takes the guess work out of "is it tight enough". Used to be accepted by most building deptartments in lieu of hiring an "independent testing lab" to verify the "average".
Fun handeling hot steel on summer days. Wait till you get to the sheeting.
Be sure to block your sidewall girts for height and level prior to installing sheeting.
Just trying to help without getting dirty.

Thanks Doug

Im having trouble with the boss he said the H.. with blocking and leavel I dont have the time we are just going to screw it up. ( maybe not a play on words maybe so?)

I will have better luck tomorrow <laugh>

The building is about 3/8ths out of squair or maybe double since they measured in two sections ( 160 ft and a 100 ft tape) I was on a run to Lows . The darn peak line is pointing one way by 3-4 in we will put a brace line/ lines on that before the roof sheating goes on - I hope I can remember. standing all day in the sun is NOT my idea of fun since I have had heat stroke before and reocourence is easer now.

And any time you want to stay clean and say no put that there!! you just come by - No I'm only partly kidding caus IF the Gov was not involved I would just go with it but you know some dweeb inspector is comming ...and if he is not carfull he might stay. Aperently one of the neighbors wives ran off an inspector at the point of a shotgun ( she was arrested but the inspector never came back) < laugh> so it seems to run in the neighbor hood.

I will not likly make it to din dins on wed unless it's close to us

Thanks for the hints.



Chuck
 

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Chuck Quote
Im having trouble with the boss he said the H.. with blocking and leavel I dont have the time we are just going to screw it up. ( maybe not a play on words maybe so?)
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The RIGHT way will ultimately be the FASTEST (Don't have to do it over later).

The pros pre-drill the sheeting while stacked on the ground so the screws all line up nice in a row so the girts better be level.

Using vinyl faced blanket insulation under sheets? Really helps deflect the heat on roof and south walls (reduces the wind and rain noise also).

When roof goes on make sure no-one walks on the high ribs, step on the low flat areas over the perlins or the ribs will get kinked (for some reason everyone thinks you should step from high rib to high rib????? NOT. Keep everybody OFF your roof.
Use "DECKTITE" roof safes on all penetrations (aluminum perimeter ring with neopreme rubber boot).

If you have equipment on the roof be sure to buy a roof curb (stand) designed to fit the sheet profile and equipment. Curbs made by sheetmetal shops always (ALWAYS) leak no matter how many times they say "we do it all the time and have no problems", bullshit!!!. Consider an elevated walkway to keep service (and installation) people from walking on your roof. Put equipment on the ground or a sidewall stand, did I mention to keep EVERYONE off your roof, forever!!

Roof (and wall) screws also go in the low flat area of the panel. If placed on the high rib they may cause a dimple and will ream a hole around the shank as sheets expand and contract everyday and LEAK. Only the short "stitch" screws at panel joints go on the highs.

The BOSS probably knows all the above but I have seen it done wrong by pros???? Always follow manufactures recommendation and call the factory with all questions or asks for tips before starting each phase.
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Couple of sayings I always think of while I am building:

Do it right the first time.

Think like a drip (water).

It doesn't have to be straight, just look straight.

Caulking is only temporary.
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Regarding caulking, Silicone sucks, use only a polyurathane caulk. I prefer a product named "Vulkum" that I get from my Heating and A/C contractor. Use this around the DECKTITE roof safe and guaranteed no leaks.

Have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
The RIGHT way will ultimately be the FASTEST (Don't have to do it over later).


It doesn't have to be straight, just look straight.

Caulking is only temporary.
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Doug

Thanks And I did read this before last nights Dinner ( OK I looked two nights ago Techenecly) .

we have two endwalls and a sidewall up now . tomorrow ( today) I hope to get the last wall and at least one roof bay.

Monday after next we start a new class ( in old school - untill Aug 31 then????) I hate dedlines.

Chuck
 

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