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Discussion Starter #1
What have I missed? Just finished putting my LT back together after a clutch replacement.


I connected the battery
Turned the key on
Headlight came on
Normal sounds heard - fuel pump for a second or two, then the brake test flash
Reset the throttle position (two twists) and turned the key off
Turned the key back on - fuel pump for a second or two, then the brake test flash
Pushed the starter – click….. and nothing else

I then realised I hadn’t reconnected the power lead to the starter motor, I connected it but still no joy….

Current situation –

When I turn the key on, headlight comes on, normal sequence (as I remember it) occurs, fuel pump for two seconds, then brake test flash

When I push and hold the starter button the headlight goes out, a click is heard, and then the headlight comes back on after about one second. The motor does not attempt to turn over.

I have checked –
Kill switch
Side stand switch
Reverse switch
Earth strap on starter motor
Battery (fully charged)

What have I missed?
 

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Did you miss one of the connectors to the battery ? I missed one once , and there was no go :wave .
 

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I'm trying to remember mine, but aren't there several wires that need to be hooked up? Seemed like there was one smaller wire that I missed my first time around.
 

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Hey, Daz - ole Toad won't start when in 1st thru 5th gear, unless the clutch lever is pulled in. Just kiddin', cuz I know you know that. ;) I'm stymied too, but somebody will prolly have the answer shortly. Good luck.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Daza said:
What have I missed? Just finished putting my LT back together after a clutch replacement.




Current situation –

When I turn the key on, headlight comes on, normal sequence (as I remember it) occurs, fuel pump for two seconds, then brake test flash

When I push and hold the starter button the headlight goes out, a click is heard, and then the headlight comes back on after about one second. The motor does not attempt to turn over.
Check the binding post behind the battery on the left side. It has an insulating cap on it and that is where I usually disconnect the starter feed wire. It makes it easy to drop the engine and tranny down to a point where you can reach in and take it off the starter. You cannot reach the post on the starter once the engine is back up. Put a test light or meter on it and make sure you are getting 12 V there during a start attempt.

If every thing is hooked up right the headlight should stay out the whole time you hold the starter button down. If it is coming back on before you release the starter button, you don't have it all hooked up right. The load shed relay gets its input from the output of the starter relay BEFORE that wire goes to the binding post I mentioned. I suspect you will find your problem there. IIRC there will be one large black/yellow wire (from the reverser controller) one large black wire (from the starter relay) and one large black wire (the one that goes to the starter + post).
 

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I ain't got a clue but be sure to come back and tell us what you did to fix it. Might help someone else some day. Might even be me.
 

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I just replaced my clutch 4 weeks ago. Just before putting on the last few panels I thought I should try starting the bike and test the clutch. I pressed the start button and nothing happened. After checking for 2 hours I finally found the problem. The reverse switch on the side of the bike has 2 micro switches. The micro switch button is covered with a rubber boot. When I touched the boots on the 2 switches I noticed that the button under one of the rubber boot moved sideways instead of in and out. The switch was broken. Micro switches usally cost about $5.00 a piece. BMW wanted $143.00 for the switches. I temporarlly bypassed the switch. Bike fired right up and I went on my 3000 mile trip the next day. Hope this might help you. (Note: when putting in switches make sure the cam is on flat spots. I beleive this is what may have broke the switch)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I still haven't cracked it. I went and checked all the advice given but still no joy.....

jzeiler said:
Check the binding post behind the battery on the left side. It has an insulating cap on it and that is where I usually disconnect the starter feed wire. It makes it easy to drop the engine and tranny down to a point where you can reach in and take it off the starter. You cannot reach the post on the starter once the engine is back up. Put a test light or meter on it and make sure you are getting 12 V there during a start attempt.
My meter flicks when measuring at the insulated post and earth when I attempt to start, but it is very short pulse.

If every thing is hooked up right the headlight should stay out the whole time you hold the starter button down. If it is coming back on before you release the starter button, you don't have it all hooked up right. The load shed relay gets its input from the output of the starter relay BEFORE that wire goes to the binding post I mentioned. I suspect you will find your problem there. IIRC there will be one large black/yellow wire (from the reverser controller) one large black wire (from the starter relay) and one large black wire (the one that goes to the starter + post).
When holding the starter button down the headlight only goes out momentarily and is back on before releasing the starter button
Is it time to look in the relay area under the fuel cell?

One more question - where does the black wire earth link go? One end is on the bolt at the spark plug leads, the other end??
 

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Daza said:
I still haven't cracked it. I went and checked all the advice given but still no joy.....



Is it time to look in the relay area under the fuel cell?

Not unless you don't have 12V on that binding post I mentioned during a start attempt. Also check to make sure all the leads are back on the positive post - There are at least three stock.

One more question - where does the black wire earth link go? One end is on the bolt at the spark plug leads, the other end??

It goes from the spark block to the underside of the cylinder head just forward of the block.
I put the answers in the quote. Then I re-read your post and realised I didn't follow up right. Give me a bit of time and I will respond with more things to check. I am at work right now and have a meeting to attend.
 

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Basic question: What is the battery condition? Most importantly, if you have 12V when the key is off, how far does the voltage drop when the starter button is pressed? below 10V = dead battery.

Your symptoms all point to a near dead battery -- the schematic shows the line to the load relief relay (shuts off the headlight) and the starter solenoid to be common on the output side of the starter relay. If power is getting to the load relief relay to kill the lights, it's getting to the starter solenoid wire -- and then there are only two possibilities that come to mind:

Either:

(i) the wire to the starter solenoid is disconnected or broken downstream of where the wire to the load relief relay branches off from the starter relay output, or

(ii) the battery only has enough juice to light the lights (5-10 Amps), but not enough to cause the starter to turn over (200-300 Amps) (of course, this assumes the starter itself isn't locked up, but there's no reason to think it is from your description).

The fact that the load relief relay trips back within a second or so is a further indication of battery woes -- the battery can only sustain the starter drain for a second or so before the voltage drops far enough for the starter relay to no longer be able to stay energized.

If the battery voltage drops off dramatically when the starter button is pushed, it's time or a recharge (and likely a replacement; these batteries aren't keen on deep discharge cycles).
 

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Daz/John. Would this not be sympomatic of one of the (2 or 3 I think) wires being removed from the starter? IIRC, there was a simular post a bit ago and the solve was simple. The ground is what I speak of.

Just a wanna be Alabama redneck, sticking my own brand of _____________! :wave
 

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Discussion Starter #13
shoswell said:
Daz/John. Would this not be sympomatic of one of the (2 or 3 I think) wires being removed from the starter? IIRC, there was a simular post a bit ago and the solve was simple. The ground is what I speak of.

Just a wanna be Alabama redneck, sticking my own brand of _____________! :wave
Three wires?

I currently have two connections to the starter motor, the black to the connection post half way along the cylinder, and the two browns on the connection point at the rear of the starter motor, one going to the cross member. Is there supposed to be another?

The battery is in top condition and fully charged.
 

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Daza said:
Three wires?

I currently have two connections to the starter motor, the black to the connection post half way along the cylinder, and the two browns on the connection point at the rear of the starter motor, one going to the cross member. Is there supposed to be another?

The battery is in top condition and fully charged.
The connections on your starter are OK. Follow that one black wire back from the starter center post(+) it will lead you to the binding post where there are three wires. If you did not mess with the binding post then you have an issue upstream closer to the starter relay. If you apply 12v directly to that binding post the starter motor will spin. Try that to eliminate the starter itself.

The post is the one with the black plastic cover at the top.



 

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