[SvFiat]

Any chance you have a video posted from the rear cam position? I'm curious what the field of view is from there. Thanks.

It picks up some one sitting in both blind spots. I think it's 150 degree wide angle lens .......................... this might give you an idea.

 

[speedtoys.racing]

Prep for some clear film..

 

[RTDragon]

Went for a 300 mile ish trip yesterday and decided to change shaft oil when I got home. I am cursing the monkey that worked on her last as they seem to have forgotten seals, washers, torque settings, amongst other things. The filler and drain plugs were on too tight, rounded and lacking the washers/o rings. Eventually got off and left it drain overnight. Drain magnet full of crud.
Will refill and change again when I get new parts (list is growing).
Pictures of 2 points from 2 photorallies I'm doing.

 

[Scott9999]

Went for a 300 mile ish trip yesterday and decided to change shaft oil when I got home. I am cursing the monkey that worked on her last as they seem to have forgotten seals, washers, torque settings, amongst other things. The filler and drain plugs were on too tight, rounded and lacking the washers/o rings. Eventually got off and left it drain overnight. Drain magnet full of crud.
Will refill and change again when I get new parts (list is growing).
Pictures of 2 points from 2 photorallies I'm doing.

What wrench did you use for the final drive filler and drain plugs? The filler plug is definitely 6MM Hex, and if you tried to remove it with a Torx, then you rounded out your plug and wrench like many other BMW Wethead riders (don't ask me how I know; I at least caught myself before I destroyed the filler plug, and it came out easily with the proper Hex wrench bit). Rumor has it that the final drive is a Torx Plus T40, not a Torx T45, but I haven't had time to plug in my DVD player and bring up the BMW manual to verify one way or the other (lol, it's like a half hour process to use BMW dang manual, and I'm not even sure it would tell me that info). Anyhow, I got it out with a Torx T45, which seemed to work out OK, but it was stiff. If it's actually TP40, that may explain the difficulty I had with the drain plug. (I've read many "sources" to positively affirm both Torx and TP, as THE BMW R1200 GS/RT final drive oil plug. (I even went looking for parts, and the $23 plug is probably part # 33117705854 for my 2018 RT, but the parts catalog doesn't say whether it's a TORX or TP.)

Anyhow, I've got the TP wrenches on order.

 

[Scott9999]

Oil change and final drive change. It was a bit of an adventure with the drain/filler plug mix-up (see above). Should have been a 15 minute task, but ended up a lot longer, with a lot more oil on the floor than planned.

Maybe do the brake fluid purge next. I only have about 300 miles on it since I bought it fall 2021, and they'd just finished the 12K service. So, I'm changing out the fluids to start fresh. I'll have some concrete clean up to do after I'm done. 🙄

Of, course, I had to take a ride around the lake to warm her up. Still a lot of ice here in N. Idaho, but the snow is clearing. It's still sub-freezing at night, but hitting the high 40F's, low 50F's during the day, so that lake should be clear of ice within a few days to a week.

 

[Boxflyer]

Quote from Scott9999 above:
"Rumor has it that the final drive is a Torx Plus T40, not a Torx T45, but I haven't had time to plug in my DVD player and bring up the BMW manual to verify one way or the other (lol, it's like a half hour process to use BMW dang manual, and I'm not even sure it would tell me that info). Anyhow, I got it out with a Torx T45, which seemed to work out OK, but it was stiff. If it's actually TP40, that may explain the difficulty I had with the drain plug. (I've read many "sources" to positively affirm both Torx and TP, as THE BMW R1200 GS/RT final drive oil plug. (I even went looking for parts, and the $23 plug is probably part # 33117705854 for my 2018 RT, but the parts catalog doesn't say whether it's a TORX or TP.)
Anyhow, I've got the TP wrenches on order."


I contributed to the misinformation about this Torx Plus 40 thing about 2 years ago and try to correct what I got started whenever I can...not trying to hijack this thread...

The Final Drive drain plug needs a T45 to remove. No Torx Plus bits here.

If it is difficult to remove the drain plug after about 1.5-2 turns, it's because the metal on the final drive itself has been flattened out and flared into the path of the threads of the drain plug on removal.
So, as you turn out the drain plug, and it gets past the thickness of the O-ring, the threads on the plug run into the deformed metal of the FD housing and you are forcing the drain plug out from that point on.
Once you do get it out, you can fix the situation by running some thread taps into the drain threads on the Final Drive to "chase" them clean.

I use a 2 tap set that has a starting tap and a bottoming tap. The starting tap is helpful because the first thread is the one that is "bunged up" from the drain plug being tightened into the final drive housing. Using a torque wrench on this and all the fasteners on this bike is essential...there is no such thing as a calibrated elbow to make sure this is installed to the correct torque.
Using some grease in the flutes of the tap will capture the swarf (metal cuttings) from the sharp teeth of the tap and ensure that none of it gets up into the gear housing. Then use the bottoming tap to clean the remaining threads only to the thickness of the housing and not into the perimeter of the ring gear. Follow this up with a good cleaning with some cotton swabs and the drain plug will not only start easier, but also run into the full length of the threads smoothly as it should.

Here is the link to the 2 piece set of M12x1.0mm taps that I use.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W98GRZM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm just trying to keep the correct information about maintaining our bikes out there and limit "Internet Myths and Misinformation".

 

[nh1200c]

... The starting tap is helpful because the first thread is the one that is "bunged up" from the drain plug being tightened into the final drive housing. ...

During the 20,000 km service that I am just finishing up I replaced my Final Drive drain plug with a Dimple plug ("Dimple" Magnetic Drain Plug, 12 X 1 MM). Along with the benefit of a stronger magnet they also use an external 10mm hex head which makes applying torque (of a known value ) a bit less of a nail-biter. The first insertion of the new plug I thought it was mis-threaded but it was, as you point out, just the first thread which was a bit out of line.

On a side-note @Boxflyer, the little electronic torque wrench you pointed out (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09F652KV9) is a great tool for low and medium torque values.

Larry

 

[Scott9999]

I contributed to the misinformation about this Torx Plus 40 thing about 2 years ago and try to correct what I got started whenever I can...not trying to hijack this thread...

The Final Drive drain plug needs a T45 to remove. No Torx Plus bits here.

I was being sincere on the other thread on the bmwst site: Live and learn. You're the most thorough engineer/wrench I've ever met (virtually, still, at this point). We all make mistakes. I was kind of laughing there, and on this thread, because I've seen both the T45 and TP40 cited, and again, authoritatively. It's good that it's "settled science": T45 it is. When I got stuck removing the fill plug, and immediately retreated to the computer to verify my erroneous "common knowledge", I also laughed at post after post, where other owners were saying "Hey, ya know, I was trying to remove the final drive fill pull and darned if it isn't all seized up ...". 🤣 Seems like while there's an "TADT" (i.e. they all do that") for Beemers, there's also a "WADT" (i.e. we all...) for the owners.

If it is difficult to remove the drain plug after about 1.5-2 turns, it's because the metal on the final drive itself has been flattened out and flared into the path of the threads of the drain plug on removal.
So, as you turn out the drain plug, and it gets past the thickness of the O-ring, the threads on the plug run into the deformed metal of the FD housing and you are forcing the drain plug out from that point on.
Once you do get it out, you can fix the situation by running some thread taps into the drain threads on the Final Drive to "chase" them clean.

Now THAT's the kinda star power one gets with "Boxflyer". It never occurred to me that metal shavings in the FD were fouling the threads. At the very least, I should run a brush or maybe a greased pipe-cleaner through the threads to clean them out. 👍🍻

I use a 2 tap set that has a starting tap and a bottoming tap. The starting tap is helpful because the first thread is the one that is "bunged up" from the drain plug being tightened into the final drive housing. Using a torque wrench on this and all the fasteners on this bike is essential...there is no such thing as a calibrated elbow to make sure this is installed to the correct torque.
Using some grease in the flutes of the tap will capture the swarf (metal cuttings) from the sharp teeth of the tap and ensure that none of it gets up into the gear housing. Then use the bottoming tap to clean the remaining threads only to the thickness of the housing and not into the perimeter of the ring gear. Follow this up with a good cleaning with some cotton swabs and the drain plug will not only start easier, but also run into the full length of the threads smoothly as it should.

Here is the link to the 2 piece set of M12x1.0mm taps that I use.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W98GRZM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Great idea. I've never heard of starting and bottoming taps. Will pick one of these sets up to go in the motorcycle tool box for next time.

As I have mentioned, I probably only have 300 miles on the bike since I bought it, and even if it was ridden a bit since the 12K service (at 11,500 miles) while it sat on their sales lot, there couldn't be more than 500 or 800 miles on it since. The oil and FD lube came out pretty clear, as one would expect. Changing the fluids is overkill, but I feel better about starting this season with fresh fluids. (I didn't even both to capture them for testing, as I intend to do in the future, because Blackstone would have laughed at me, while they took my money of course. 😏

Thanks for all you do for the Beemer community. Don't ever switch to all-Honda's or all-Harley's. We need to keep you on our team. 😁

 

[Scott9999]

During the 20,000 km service that I am just finishing up I replaced my Final Drive drain plug with a Dimple plug ("Dimple" Magnetic Drain Plug, 12 X 1 MM). Along with the benefit of a stronger magnet they also use an external 10mm hex head which makes applying torque (of a known value ) a bit less of a nail-biter. The first insertion of the new plug I thought it was mis-threaded but it was, as you point out, just the first thread which was a bit out of line.

On a side-note @Boxflyer, the little electronic torque wrench you pointed out (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09F652KV9) is a great tool for low and medium torque values.

Larry

View attachment 181901

Hmmm, just envying your clean and oil free garage floor .... 😁. Actually, one of my goals this year is to fill all the cracks, grind, and resin coat the garage floor.

Anyhow, your workshop looks more organized than mine. (I miss the work bench and cabinets that I once had in my previous house's 3-car garage. What I have now is half the size; just no room.)

 

[Audi403]

I've never heard of starting and bottoming taps. Will pick one of these sets up to go in the motorcycle tool box for next time.

There are actually three types of taps. Taper, plug, and bottoming. A millwright will run all three in order when tapping new threads. I've found if you have existing threads that are messed up, you typically only need a plug tap, followed by a bottoming tap. You only need a bottoming tap for a blind hole. A blind hole is a hole that does not completely penetrate the component and therefore has a certain depth.

Here's the full breakdown:

 

[stefaan]

Wow! Let us know how the Wing compares to the RT once you get some seat time. Also, what you think of your new seat for the RT.

The new high seat is a lot better than stock no sliding ,high quality materials , seat heating takes longer to warm up.
The RT needs less fuel if you ride spirited.
Weather protection and suspension is better on the RT.
The wing has a more relaxed seating position an is very smooth, dct works great.
The wing is the best for cruising .Although you can ride spirited too.
Big and heavy motorcycles do everything a lighter bike can. I once had a k 1600 Gt see the video

 

[Mellow]

Lighted controls!


Well, actually just a red led I added under my radar detector mount and connected to the aux power. Not sure how well it will work but seems adequate.

 

[The_real_hati]

Big and heavy motorcycles do everything a lighter bike can

Will have to agree to disagree there. Especially when the bikes in question are stationary or moving very slowly. I do agree however that once in proper motion, heavy bikes loose much of their weight, especially boxers, like the RT or a Wing.

 

[Audi403]

The new high seat is a lot better than stock no sliding ,high quality materials , seat heating takes longer to warm up.
The RT needs less fuel if you ride spirited.
Weather protection and suspension is better on the RT.
The wing has a more relaxed seating position an is very smooth, dct works great.
The wing is the best for cruising .Although you can ride spirited too.
Big and heavy motorcycles do everything a lighter bike can. I once had a k 1600 Gt see the video

Is that in Belgium? The roads sure are narrow. The K1600 engine sounds amazing! You get many tickets riding like that? Lol

 

[Audi403]

Working on my escape. My block is the worst in the area. Just need to get out of my driveway...

 

[Ugly Betty]

Will have to agree to disagree there. Especially when the bikes in question are stationary or moving very slowly. I do agree however that once in proper motion, heavy bikes loose much of their weight, especially boxers, like the RT or a Wing.

I'm not sure what proper motion equals in speed, but the RT can do amazing things below 6MPH.

 

[kbob12]

The new high seat is a lot better than stock no sliding ,high quality materials , seat heating takes longer to warm up.
The RT needs less fuel if you ride spirited.
Weather protection and suspension is better on the RT.
The wing has a more relaxed seating position an is very smooth, dct works great.
The wing is the best for cruising .Although you can ride spirited too.
Big and heavy motorcycles do everything a lighter bike can. I once had a k 1600 Gt see the video

You certainly jet around your neighborhood! The 356 and Merc were a pleasant surprise early on in your video!

 

[TJD5150]

Sold it for this.

 

[Mellow]

Sold it for this. View attachment 181906

Love the color scheme, wish they'd done something like that w/RT.

 

[bandera]

The new high seat is a lot better than stock no sliding ,high quality materials , seat heating takes longer to warm up.
The RT needs less fuel if you ride spirited.
Weather protection and suspension is better on the RT.
The wing has a more relaxed seating position an is very smooth, dct works great.
The wing is the best for cruising .Although you can ride spirited too.
Big and heavy motorcycles do everything a lighter bike can. I once had a k 1600 Gt see the video

I miss the sound of the KGT. That 356 Porsche and I think the other was an early SL Merc had me yelling at you to turn around and follow them.