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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I was wondering what Clutch you guys get when you replace them The Siebenrock one or the OEM And where do you get the Siebenrock I have the dreaded main leak I did put a weep hole in Bell The Clutch is working fine But am sure my days are coming I just want to pull all the info I can in and start getting the parts
I know this been asked before and I have pretty good parts list in front of me but I want a doulbe checkj I want to know every seal, bolt, washer ,and anything else that goes with it I am replacing the clutch slave also And where is the cheapest place to get this all from
And for me to do this job in the next serveral months will not happen Because of I what have going on But it will

PS Thier is not somebody near me in Hudsonville Michigan in case I run into a Question or Problem that could come by just to give me some info on the issuse
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Beemer Bone Yard sells two Siebenrock clutches. One is oil proof and $$$$. The other is less than the stock in $$ but better than stock is its name. I have one on the self for a friend (the one I mentioned) and it looks better built than stock. I used a stock one in mine @ 40 K and it is still going strong @ 98 K.
 
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Enjoy The Ride
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I used the Siebenrock oil proof clutch in my 2004 when I replaced the clutch. I also installed new, Diaphragm Spring 21217688214
Pressure plate 21212332974
Housing Cover 21212333449
6 Housing Cover Screws 21211454417
6 Cover Screw Washers 21211242377
Hex Nut 11211460673
Compression Ring 11211460696
19mm X 4mm Viton O-ring

The new housing cover had some bad machine lines & I had to return it for a different one before I installed it. The clutch disc. works fine for me.
 

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I have never understood the need to upgrade to oil proof. There is not supposed to be oil in the clutch. It is a fault to be fixed - does one have oil proof clutch plate or not. So one cannot replace clutch job with oil proof plate. It can of course buy some extra miles but based on my experience I could ride hundreds of kilometers home with clutch soaking in oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I used the Siebenrock oil proof clutch in my 2004 when I replaced the clutch. I also installed new, Diaphragm Spring 21217688214
Pressure plate 21212332974
Housing Cover 21212333449
6 Housing Cover Screws 21211454417
6 Cover Screw Washers 21211242377
Hex Nut 11211460673
Compression Ring 11211460696
19mm X 4mm Viton O-ring

The new housing cover had some bad machine lines & I had to return it for a different one before I installed it. The clutch disc. works fine for me.
Dave I see you did not or I should say I see no one replaced the Clutch Slave while they were in I was thinking that might be a good Idea
Dave you probably did replace the input and output seals on tran and the motor one right
This is all the seals I can come up with is thier more while I am thier
If you did not change the Clutch Slave is thier a seal on that besides the one it comes in contact against the the Tran
 

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Attached is the parts list that was used on my 2000 LT. This was done in January 2006. Included in the parts is the slave cylinder. My LT had 64k miles on it at the time. The reason for replacement was a leaky rear main seal. The service tech said that the clutch looked like it had very little wear, but changed everything out while it was apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Attached is the parts list that was used on my 2000 LT. This was done in January 2006. Included in the parts is the slave cylinder. My LT had 64k miles on it at the time. The reason for replacement was a leaky rear main seal. The service tech said that the clutch looked like it had very little wear, but changed everything out while it was apart.
Thanks for the info I have 90,000 miles on mine so I think I should get a New Clutch Slave sense the tech you had replaced at 64,000
 

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I have never understood the need to upgrade to oil proof. There is not supposed to be oil in the clutch. It is a fault to be fixed - does one have oil proof clutch plate or not. So one cannot replace clutch job with oil proof plate. It can of course buy some extra miles but based on my experience I could ride hundreds of kilometers home with clutch soaking in oil.
not knowing for sure the cause of the oring failure (material,compression, or heat) although $150 is a big difference I opted for the extra "sense of security". basically I looked at it like a clutch plate that absorbs oil even when there should not be any oil, is not as good as one that does not. honestly I felt like a sucker when I got it, but no regrets now.

Attached is the parts list that was used on my 2000 LT. This was done in January 2006. Included in the parts is the slave cylinder. My LT had 64k miles on it at the time. The reason for replacement was a leaky rear main seal. The service tech said that the clutch looked like it had very little wear, but changed everything out while it was apart.
this list is great I used with the one JZ did, but the prices are surprisingly out dated for just nearly 10 years. I would have expected the price to remain/drop considering the volume of these parts that must have been sold.
 

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Dave I see you did not or I should say I see no one replaced the Clutch Slave while they were in I was thinking that might be a good Idea
Dave you probably did replace the input and output seals on tran and the motor one right
This is all the seals I can come up with is thier more while I am thier
If you did not change the Clutch Slave is thier a seal on that besides the one it comes in contact against the the Tran
I replace my clutch slave every 60,000 miles. The rear main engine seal is Teflon not rubber & they very seldom leak. I didn't replace any trans. seals either.
 

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not knowing for sure the cause of the oring failure (material,compression, or heat)
I believe that heat causes the most failures, followed by synthetic oil (no blasting please). The original rubber seal solidifies and crumbles with the heat. I believe in using synthetic oil, but have heard that regular oil helps in keeping the seals more pliable (softer).
 

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Here are two threads that will help with the project. First one deals with someone who purchased an aftermarket friction plate and then had trouble with dimension stack up because the friction disk was too thick. The second is one of the better threads with details on changing this seal out. As mentioned the crank main seal seldom if ever leaks. Most folks change it out because they are there and it is a long ways in. What needs to be changed are the intake seals and rubber parts, crank case rubber vent tube and stuff like that while you have it apart.

Gear box seal replacement progress. - I-BMW.com

GregRS's journey into seal territory - I-BMW.com

Get a Clymer service manual, a big help. The picture of the shouldered washer for the main crank nut is correct, OEM manual is backwards.

I can lend you the special tools needed for the job if you PM me.
 

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Here is a set up I used on the last RS Oring repair. I also have a supply of the Viton 19x4mm Oring you need that has failed.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Here are two threads that will help with the project. First one deals with someone who purchased an aftermarket friction plate and then had trouble with dimension stack up because the friction disk was too thick. The second is one of the better threads with details on changing this seal out. As mentioned the crank main seal seldom if ever leaks. Most folks change it out because they are there and it is a long ways in. What needs to be changed are the intake seals and rubber parts, crank case rubber vent tube and stuff like that while you have it apart.

Gear box seal replacement progress. - I-BMW.com

GregRS's journey into seal territory - I-BMW.com

Get a Clymer service manual, a big help. The picture of the shouldered washer for the main crank nut is correct, OEM manual is backwards.

I can lend you the special tools needed for the job if you PM me.
Thanks I will for sure keep tool lend offer in mind but I will not be getting at it for several months But thanks for the info you will probably be hearing from in the future
Now I am trying to take all the info I can in And get some parts on hand
 

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Well, some may think I am out of my mind but I will be starting the dissassembly on Monday or Tuesday of my non leaking 2001 LT with 53K . It is a winter preemptive strike at the o-ring with replacement of most everything else along the way. I have all the seals, slave, nuts bolts washers, spring, Viton o-ring and the Siebenrock oil proof clutch from BBY. If I am going to do it, I only want to do it once and don't want to get stuck somewhere if it decides to start leaking.

With any luck, Panzer will be lending a hand and was the provider of some of the special tools he made when he did his and I will benefit from his experience of having already done it.

Replacing the hard rubber and seals on the throttle body as well while I have it out and probably the exterior fuel lines as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
When I remove the intake manifold to do job what new parts should I all get Maybe a breather manifold along with the engine breather hose and maybe the vacuum hose What else do I need for this area
And there is nothing tricky about replacing this stuff right just what to know what I am getting into
 

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When I remove the intake manifold to do job what new parts should I all get Maybe a breather manifold along with the engine breather hose and maybe the vacuum hose What else do I need for this area
And there is nothing tricky about replacing this stuff right just what to know what I am getting into
I changed out my breather tube when I did mine. I did not have much choice as it was torn in many spots and basically a goo. putting in the new one is reported to be tricky, but with the engine tilted it is far more easy, so yeah the timing is perfect.
 

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CoolK1200, please keep us up to speed on progress and things found.This is as good as any place to do it as we are all watching. Think about changing transmission case seals too, your there.
 

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CoolK1200, please keep us up to speed on progress and things found.This is as good as any place to do it as we are all watching. Think about changing transmission case seals too, your there.
Beech, I have the input and output seals as well as the slave seal for the transmission and Panzer provided the tools to properly seat the ones that are critical. Even though the main engine is Teflon and is seldom reported to be the leaking culprit, I am replacing that one as well. Bought a lift and some new tools for doing proper measurements before ripping out the old ones so I can verify proper placement when done.

My thinking is that if it would have cost me $xxxx to have the dealer do it, I can spend the extra on cool tools and do it myself. Then if i ever have to do it again or help someone do the same, I am 3 steps ahead. :dance:

I will take photos along the way and post as several of the stories i have read of people doing this vary somewhat in implementation up to the point of doing the actual seals.

Gordon
 

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When I remove the intake manifold to do job what new parts should I all get Maybe a breather manifold along with the engine breather hose and maybe the vacuum hose What else do I need for this area
And there is nothing tricky about replacing this stuff right just what to know what I am getting into
When I pulled my throttle body to replace a misbehaving TP potentiometer, I noticed that the bushings were very hard from age. They can crack and be the source of a vacuum leak so I am putting new ones on this time. I made a breather tube from copper based on photos from other threads to replace the cracked and broken plastic one. Not having a proper breather hose to attach it to the block, I used radiator hose with the intention of replacing it with a proper material next time in which will be now. I ordered a Chrysler breather hose from Amazon which should hold up pretty well and has some interesting bends in it so fitment should not be an issue. Also ordered new o-ring seals for the TB mountings to the block as they can also leak and cause issues.
 

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Take a good picture of the Chrysler hose and provide the PN as I am sure other will be interested.
 
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