[c00k1e]

Installed a live and negative distribution boxes, fuses, relays and lights etc.
Wireing diagram attached.
Worked great on the day - 3 days later the battery was TOAST totally flat, not a glimmer.
Charger wont touch it!
Can anyone here spot my mistake?

 

[charlieg]

Could you have left the GPS on? Did you ride the bike during the three days, or did it just sit? -Chuck-

 

[Woolly]

There's nothing wrong with the circuit diagram. When you get a new battery, use an ammeter to check each of the connections into the -ve DB to find where the leak is.

 

[c00k1e]

Could you have left the GPS on? Did you ride the bike during the three days, or did it just sit? -Chuck-

Didn't plug the GPS in. Didn't ride the bike.

 

[c00k1e]

There's nothing wrong with the circuit diagram. When you get a new battery, use an ammeter to check each of the connections into the -ve DB to find where the leak is.

Ammeters are a mistery to me (as were relays a few months back)
How should I use one to test for this?
Mine looks like the one below. I never know where to plug the testing leads in! or which setting to put it on, or where to touch the electrics.

 

[DanMartin]

Voltmeter: 2 leads...red into right side V*MA,black into COM
Switch to 20 at about 10 o-clock on dial

!. Disconnect all wires at Neg. Dist. Box.
2. With all switches off.
3. Black lead to neg on battery
4. Touch red lead to each wire you disconnected,all should read 0.0
5. Any reading other than 0 is your leak

dan

 

[Woolly]

Voltmeter: 2 leads...red into right side V*MA,black into COM
Switch to 20 at about 10 o-clock on dial

!. Disconnect all wires at Neg. Dist. Box.
2. With all switches off.
3. Black lead to neg on battery
4. Touch red lead to each wire you disconnected,all should read 0.0
5. Any reading other than 0 is your leak

dan

I was thinking bout measuring the current flowing (switch multimeter to 200m (about 4 o-clock) on dial, then proceed exactly as above) rather than voltage, but either way, there should not be any voltage or current flowing when the ignition is turned off.

 

[c00k1e]

Thanks guys, my depression has lifted!
I have something to pront out and work on
Know of any good sites that talk more about the black art of Voltmeters?
Last Q - some of ther wires (the lighting ones mainly), are extreamly long. They were sets for a car. If I was to shorten the wires, is that a problem?

 

[Woolly]

Know of any good sites that talk more about the black art of Voltmeters?
Last Q - some of ther wires (the lighting ones mainly), are extreamly long. They were sets for a car. If I was to shorten the wires, is that a problem?

No problems shortening the wires - the shorter the better, just make sure they're not strained and leave yourself enough room for maintenance, removal etc. Make sure the connectors are properly fastened, especially on the higher current ones to the lights - if you have a bad connection on these, they can get very hot, and possibly start a fire .

Check THIS out for how to use your meter. (or a geeky video!!)

 

[c00k1e]

Thanks guys. I think my best bet is to strip out the proof of concept wiring, get my spare battery in and start again. Checking as I go. Before I do, I will take a shot of what the mess looks like under my seat at present. In the diagram it looks far better!!!

 

[BikerBob]

Make sure the 12v power is not going through the relays when ing. is off do A draw test

 

[c00k1e]

Well this is strange - 0.0 right through the test. None of the neg terminals were drawing current.
Left the battery on charge for the night so I don't kill the spare and going to test the relays tomorrow.

 

[bjedruszczak]

First thing I would do is to measure if any current drains through the system while your ignition key is in OFF. Even if you have alarm system, the current shouldn't be over 100mA.
If the current is high, try unplugging things one by one to see where is it draining.

 

[scurrie]

Don't let the smoke out of the meter

I was thinking bout measuring the current flowing (switch multimeter to 200m (about 4 o-clock) on dial, then proceed exactly as above) rather than voltage, but either way, there should not be any voltage or current flowing when the ignition is turned off.

This will either blow the fuse in the meter, if it has one, or will damage the meter. Current is measured in series with the load, not across it, voltage is measured across the load. And I would use the high current scale on the meter anyway, just in case. If you want to see if current is flowing when all the new accessories are off (shouldn't be any), plug the red test lead into the meter "10ADC" hole, black test lead in the "COM" hole, set the meter to 10A at the 4:30 position. Now, disconnect the negative lead going to the battery from the "neg distribution box", connect the red test lead to this wire and the black test lead to the battery where you disconnected the wire, the load will now go through the meter. The meter should read 0.0 if everything is off. You can now measure how many amps all this stuff is drawing by turning it all on, however, if the lights are more than 10A (which they are if they are driving lights, which is why you used relays), you will blow the fuse in the meter. Leave the lights off. If you measure current with everything off, you have something wired wrong. Disconnect things one at a time until you see the meter go to 0.0. Follow the wires, figure out what you did wrong.

-Scurrie

 

[cfell]

Hey C00Kie,
Ride on by Saturday morning and we'll snuff that bug.

If you can't make it, I understand.. Good luck!

 

[c00k1e]

Tell you what - I will meet you half way - or in Cuba next time I am there!

Hey C00Kie,
Ride on by Saturday morning and we'll snuff that bug.

If you can't make it, I understand.. Good luck!