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Discussion Starter #1
Picked the bike up from having the final drive repaired. For a while I've been thinking I felt it hesitate while riding just figured it was wind or road. Hesitated a couple of times on the way home from dealer, then today on the way to work it started stuttering and surging then the tach started eratic behavior then would not accelorat. Going to check plug wires and injectors but this is it for me. When it is fixed it is going up for sale, not sure what will replace it, but I need something that I am not afraid to take out of the county.
 

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Those were the exact symptoms of my impending fuel pump failure. The surging and hesitation got worse until it failed completely.

Ron
 

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Tiger955 said:
When it is fixed it is going up for sale, not sure what will replace it, but I need something that I am not afraid to take out of the county.
Got details on the sale? :stir:
 

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You did not state mileage and year of the bike!!

Never had a dealer touch either of my LT's but there are a lot of riders here reporting issues
when leaving the dealer . . . I'm just saying!

Whenever I did major repairs on my LTs their inability to perform properly was all "my" fault
and with the help of members here, patience and realization of my senior moments 100% of
the time I was able to return the beast back to running condition at a reasonable cost within
a reasonable period of time - and I now had first hand knowledge under my belt of how to
maintain the bike.

A majority of the time when the motor is not running correctly the problem is:

- anything to do with either the fuel or air supply supply system - filters, connectors,
connections, injectors, the fuel itself, cables, tank venting, the fuel canister, pinched lines,
electrical connections associated with the fuel system, crankcase breather lines that are old
and cracked and the list goes on.

- on occasion electrical issues pop up as mentioned before electrical connections, grounding
issues and sometimes the farkles that are added on by previous owners. Before the dealer
left my town 6 years ago he had a bike in the shop that caught fire after hours just sitting in
the shop while they were servicing it. So wiring routing and non factory connections can also
be an issue due to age . . .I'm just saying!

There are many new members joining the site these days with many of them purchasing
bikes that are up to 10 years old. So any rubber components need preventative
maintenance and inspection, electrical connections should be taken
apart and cleaned and have dielectric grease applied, bearings need to be inspected, brake
lines and cables need to be inspected. and even after you do all that
these support systems can still go south on you when you least want it to!! And some items
just need to be replaced even before they get old . . .I'm just saying.

Good luck in trying to find the root cause of your issue . . .
__________________
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I haven't worked on the LT. It was under warranty when I bought it and still has the extended warranty covering it. It is an 08 with 40,000 on it.

My issue with the bike is that it has been in the shop 5 times, not counting this latest problem. I understand things break and need repaired / replaced. However, I look at my Tiger which is an 01 with 95,000 miles on it. I've done all the maintenance on it and it has only had one failure. The stator went out at 62,000 miles and nothing else had been changed besides normal service items: spark plugs, oil, filters, brake pads, and brake rotors. It starts every morning and just runs.
 

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+1 on the plug wire issue.
Check out beemerboneyard.com. They have a full set set of aftermarket wires for 69.95. I paid $56 for one official BMW wire :mad:
 

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Just curious,is there a wrap that could be used to protect the plug wires from crossfire and chafing?
Tiger955 said:
Picked the bike up from having the final drive repaired. For a while I've been thinking I felt it hesitate while riding just figured it was wind or road. Hesitated a couple of times on the way home from dealer, then today on the way to work it started stuttering and surging then the tach started eratic behavior then would not accelorat. Going to check plug wires and injectors but this is it for me. When it is fixed it is going up for sale, not sure what will replace it, but I need something that I am not afraid to take out of the county.
 

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Tiger955 said:
Thanks, already got them on order.

Now how do I get it out of Limp mode????

What is the "limp mode"?
 

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Tiger955 said:
Thanks, already got them on order.

Now how do I get it out of Limp mode????
There is no such thing as "limp mode" in cars where ECU puts the machine in to the limp mode to protect engine, cat or whatever. When the problem causing the misfiring, surging or whatever the symptom is, will be fixed the beast should recover..
 

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Tiger955 said:
Pulled the plug wires. The number 4 plug wire has a nice groove worn down to the wires. Pulled the plugs and the number 4 plug was darker than the other 3 so will put new plug wires on and see what that does.
Glad you found your issue. It looks like whomever worked in that area did not route the wires properly and that once was caught on the cover.
I have done all the maintenance on my bike and had the dealer only perform the warranty work (hydraulic center stand, reverse sensor, and final drive seal) so I can only blame myself if anything goes wrong. :p
 

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GlennM86 said:
What is the "limp mode"?
"limp home mode" When the ECU sees a sensor as an open, short, or out of spec it disregards this sensor and uses a fixed value.

An example would be if your ECT sensor was seen as an open, short, or value out of a known range the reading would be ignored and a fixed value of approx. 180deg used (the value it uses depends, usually something around normal operating temp)

It was designed to keep the engine running and get you safely to the side of the road. Not necessarily home.

It's no help with a mechanical fault or non monitored components such as a cut plug wire.
It is self correcting once the fault is repaired.
It's not perfect by any means, if a sensor reading is in the known range but not correct in relation to actual temp the ECU can/will still use the sensor reading and give you a rough running condition. This is when real time value readings are a big help with diagnosing a drivability problem.
 

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SoCalHoss said:
Just curious,is there a wrap that could be used to protect the plug wires from crossfire and chafing?
Most auto parts stores have a teflon spiral wrap that you could use, however, you shouldn't need it. I would just reinspect every 12K.
I bet the "limp" mode was just the misfiring of at least that cylinder. If that wire was chaffed that bad, my guess is that at least one other wire was shorting out also...

Great news on the fix! I hope that once you get the gremlins out, she will be an excellent ride for you!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
All of the plug wires had worn places the 4 was the worse. Where the wires go under the valve cover is where it was worn. Going to gin up some sort of grommet for it.
 

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Cochinosucio said:
Got details on the sale? :stir:
Your new avatar looks a lot like you! :p
 

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deputy5211 said:
Your new avatar looks a lot like you! :p
Yep! Cochinosucio= Dirty Little Pig (Espanol)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ARGHH. Wires ordered April 7th, wife called them last week (I was in China) plug wires, what plug wires!!!! :mad:
 

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Unless your center conductor is cut through, a few wraps of electrical tape and some shrink tubing will make those wires good as new if you want to get some miles in while waiting.....
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Picked up plug wires today. The dealer had inadvertently cancelled the first order.... Anyway, they had them overnighted and they paid the overnight fees so that is good. Going for spiral wrap tomorrow and then back together. Just hope this fixes the problem.
 
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