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Discussion Starter #1
Well, you guy's just aren't going to believe this.
Bran new bmw K1200LT with 2,876 miles on the clock.
Running thru the Smokey Mts. this brisk Sunday afternoon and what happens.
Car pulls up beside me and they yell out of the window (you Jap piece of S--- bike is on fire). I think to my self, oh yeal? They go on by laughing, and I think to myself, (bad joke). A car behind me rulls and starts blowing there horn, about this time I'm getting pretty pissed with society. I take my left hand off of the bar's to motion them on around, and whamo, the bike locks up and I just about do a flip off of the bike. I finally get it under control, and straight, and she stops right in the middle of the road. I get off and the damn thing is on fire. The rubber gasket, between the drive shaft and the final drive hub, I guess you might call the thing, was on fire, and I do mean on fire. If I were not 25 yards from the river that runs thru the mountains, the damn thing would of burnt down right then and there. A kid had one of those large plastic mugs with them and ran down to the creek and got some water and we thru it on it a couple of times. The final drive hub was terribly hot. We tried to move it off of the road, but it was locked up. Actually, at first I thought that it was the brakes that locked up. But I finally got my composure, with all of the traffic stopped and finally got the clutch pulled in and some help in pushing it off of the road. It rolls good with the clutch pulled in or out of gear in neutral. Start it up and put it in gear and it will not budge. Has to be the final drive, right. Tell me what you think.
Had to of ruined the brake rotar, rear tire, rear wheel, bottom of the right side case, hoses and wiring just above the rotar, and god only knows what else. Just got the bike out of the shop on saturday from having the rear tire changed to get those slick a-- metz tires off of the thing, now this. What next. Also, if you think that it is the final drive, what do I need to make sure that goes on the bike to ensure that this does not happen again. I know that ive been long winded, but I am really wound up tight about all of this.
rlv.
 

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Well, I know that Destination is probably closed tomorrow,but I know that you will take it back. The bike is under warranty, I wouldn't worry about.

Have them at their expense tow it to there shop.

Sorry it happened and glad you are ok.

Oh, I have run across those same idiots on the road; Jap? Obviously they are the smart ones! LOL :rolleyes:
 

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Wow! That's scary
If it will roll with the clutch in but won't move when it's running I don't think it is the final drive. If the final was locked up it would not roll at all
Glad to hear you're ok
 

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Discussion Starter #4
mike,
what would you say that it is?
I would not have a clue if it is not the final drive.
But also, I did get that rear tire changed sat.
rlv
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Goldie,
My gear box.
Never thought of that.
Is my gear box back that far, next to the rubber gasket at the final drive?
Has anyone else had this problem?
Is it as common as the final drive.
Would a rear tire change have anything to do with this.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Goldie,
Also another thought, I can still shift gears into all of the gears, I have already tried that.
What do you think
 

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Gear box is at front of the drive shaft, after clutch. (Front to rear: Engine > clutch > tranny > shaft > final drive)

I'm leaning towards a gear box (transmission) problem. If the engine didn't start and run, a seized engine would be strongly suspected. But, I'm a bit confused by the neutral/clutch thing. Clutch disengaged and rolling implies tranny is at least mostly OK. Tranny is turned by rear wheel when clutch disengged. Rolling only in neutral would indicate a tranny input side issue. But - rolling in both implies engine seizure. But the engine runs *and* won't move the bike. Weird.

I'm thinking the fire was just a consequence of whatever failed, not a cause - big SWAG there. Whatever has failed likely spilled fluid. I'm betting that fluid assisted with the fire at the final drive boot. I know final drives can get hot - but no idea if they can get *that* hot. Possible reaction 'tween fluid and boot rubber or something else created something with a lower flash point?

Good luck on the repairs - be curious to hear what it was after dealer gets to it. Gotta wonder how much of a fight this may become between your insurance carrier and dealer's waranty obligations.

Above all - glad you're OK!! Sudden 'stoppage' like that could've been disasterous.
 

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warranty

well.....the main thing is.....your ok.....

aside from that ....its a new bike so its under warranty....

being ever pessimistic about the quality of work these days id bet that whatever work you recently had done resulted in the problem whatever it is....

just thinking of how to generate enough heat back there to set a gasket or seal on fire id say it would be more likely brake related.....especially if they just had the back tire off....BUT....thats all speculation.....and really.....aside from the fact that it might take the shop a little while to fix it.....u are only going to be out riding time....

anyhow....im glad you didnt get hurt....

good luck
 

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Probably a dumb question - could that new tire have started rubbing causing the heat and fire? Spacer properly installed? Different brand of tire that didn't allow as much clearnace?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
budman60,
New tire was a Bridgestone 20.
Don"t know if they put the proper spacer in or even if they put a spacer in at all. Something is weird about all of this.
Does a Metz 880 require a spacer?
Don't even know who changed the tire, they told me that they were totally swamped, and had been for a period of time. Mechanical work was 2 & 3 weeks out, and looking for more mechanics. What I am getting at is, I don't even know if it was a trained mechanic who changed the tire.
Thanks for your reply.
rlv
 

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Here's my ramblings from 600 miles away...

As much as I love the opportunity to poke at the Bridgestone tire . . . I don't think it can be that at all. Pulling in the clutch or putting the bike in Neutral to allow it to roll has nothing to do with tire. I don't think it's the final drive either. I think it's tranny or drive shaft related. The fire makes me suspect a U-Joint or the driveshaft. I never heard of one failing on an LT (or any Beemer), but it can happen. Hard to believe that a U-Joint failing would lock the rear tire up though.

You'll have to keep is abreast on this one. Just glad you're OK. Your LT will be back on the road before you know it. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
joe,
thanks for the reply and the interest.
I will definately let every one know what they find.
richard
 

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Well, here's my $0.02.

I think it was a drive shaft failure.

The drive shaft is actually a four part assembly. A universal joint on each each and two shaft sections in the middle. The two shaft sections are joined by a 'metalask' rubber type interface. They have been known to fail, but not regularly.

If it indeed started to fail, the input shaft would be spinning faster than the output shaft and some huge heat could be generated. Enough to perhaps ignite any fluids in the boot or perhaps the Metalask itself. JMO.

In any event, it's a bummer and I'm glad you're okay. Sorry scenario on a new bike. I keep hoping BMW gets its act together on these small volume cycles, but it doesn't look very promising. I love the bike but hate the mentality. :(
 

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I am betting on a brake problem. I have seen this problem a couple of times when the rear caliper would not completely release and got the rotor and caliper so hot that they melted the boot and caliper.
 

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hp1bmw said:
I am betting on a brake problem.
And when he engaged the clutch, this affected the brakes how?!

If it was a brake problem, it would still be locked up...or the calipers would have released and the issue would've gone away. But from what he is describing, if the bike is in gear, the rear tire is still locked up.
 

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I vote for a problem with the rear brake dragging and heating everything up until you have ignition.
 

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Give us a little more here.
You say it does not move with the engine. Are you saying it tries to kill the engine when you release the clutch or does the engine just spin when you release the clutch.

What if he had a brake computer failure that only occurs when he starts the engine and this locks the rear brake?

Come on Joe think outside the box.

Rick
 

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I think your g/box is picking up two gears together,you will feel you are selecting gears but all you are feeling is the selector forks working.It's the fact that your engine is still running that is confusing the issue.
 

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I'll put money on the actual drive shaft rubber coming unglued! Check out this thread from our archived site:
http://www.bmwlt.net/ubbthreads/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Board=K1200LT&Number=188448&Search=true&Forum=All_Forums&Words=Drive shaft rubber&Match=And&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=188447

If that rubber got hot enough it could have been the cause of the fire. Only thing that throws me is the actual lock-up you had. Maybe it could have somehow jammed up within the shaft housing?

Whatever the cause, glad you're OK. And definitely take it back to the dealer!

John
 
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