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Discussion Starter #1
went for a ride and she started to burn oil real bad (full site glass in 250 miles). so i did c compressn test on and #4 only had 60 psi so i pull the head and the cylinder wall has a big grove in it so the coating is gone. time for a motor.:frown:
 

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Rotten luck. I see the year's an '03. What's the mileage?

Bob
 

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went for a ride and she started to burn oil real bad (full site glass in 250 miles). so i did c compressn test on and #4 only had 60 psi so i pull the head and the cylinder wall has a big grove in it so the coating is gone. time for a motor.:frown:
Sounds like a good price, but have you checked with a machine shop? They may be able to bore it out and sleeve the cylinder for you... I have had that done to a couple of car engine cylinders in my lifetime, and the motor performed like new when reassembled... that might cost less than changing the entire motor... just sayin'... check it out and let us know what you find out.

-John
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the cyl wall are to thin to sleve. thay have a coating on the walls and the part to reblid are more then i got the used motor for. it 8 a piston will try to take
pic and post them
 

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the cyl wall are to thin to sleve. thay have a coating on the walls and the part to reblid are more then i got the used motor for. it 8 a piston will try to take
pic and post them
I am curious if you cracked a ring or was it blow by from wear that burned the wall and piston? Will you be pulling it apart any further to inspect the piston and rings?
 
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I am curious if you cracked a ring or was it blow by from wear that burned the wall and piston? Will you be pulling it apart any further to inspect the piston and rings?
Typically it is fractured (from detonation) piston ring lands that leads to a broken ring. The engine I tore down had only one cylinder damaged but ALL the pistons had broken/fractured ring lands.
 

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Sounds familiar John. I have a lot of spare engines and parts laying around. If anyone needs anything please ask. I just might have it!
:)
 

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109,000 just got a motor for $ 400 with 70.000 on it
>:)
What year engine?

I recall reading about someone having problems running a later model engine with an older ECU

or maybe it was vice versa?


anyway...
just an FYI
 

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Discussion Starter #15
just cuz the tranny is the same the motor are not the rs has less torque on the low end. it would be a big pig til about 40 mph in 1st gear.it mite go faster. the bear block part # are not the same.:grin:
 

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just cuz the tranny is the same the motor are not the rs has less torque on the low end. it would be a big pig til about 40 mph in 1st gear.it mite go faster. the bear block part # are not the same.:grin:
OK,
Whatever you say. :rolleyes:


Good luck with the bike.
 

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The RS engine was different, forged pistons instead of cast, different cams, etc. Someone in the distant past made the switch, and yes a little better top end, but suffered at low end.
 

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With a different final drive gear ratio like a 3.20 gear that I use when I ride in the mountains the RS engine & transmission might be a good combination in the LT.
 

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109,000 just got a motor for $ 400 with 70.000 on it
>:)
damn that is cheaper than any other part on these things. How did you score that? I wanted a rear rack to take the trunk off to shave some weight off this cow and it was more than that.
 

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RS engine in a LT

The RS engine was different, forged pistons instead of cast, different cams, etc. Someone in the distant past made the switch, and yes a little better top end, but suffered at low end.
David, swap was made for a gentleman in the Dallas/Ft Worth area, think he was a big sports figure.

As I remember the shop had a hell of a time getting the ECU right and I think they finally used the KRS tranny.

I actually rode that bike when the dealer in Shreveport had it for sale. Ran REALLY nice, but not that much more power than my standard 2000 LT.

No doubt some of the masters with a 13 year old tech savvy son/daughter could make it work easily today, but why???

:smile:
 
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