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Discussion Starter #1
Decided to drill the weep hole for the clutch slave cylinder so borrowed the 30 mm socket with the window (thank you ever so much AlaskaFish!) and started in. Watched the videos a couple times and dug in. All went well with the disassembly, got the hole drilled and started to put everything back together. As expected all went well until I started the install of the final drive. Put the fixed pivot bolt in place to hold the FD in place and was ready to put the inside floating pivot in place and noticed the cage of the pivot bearing was broken. This was Sunday evening at about 6 p.m. Crap! Couldn't get the bearing until this morning at 10:00 a.m. Read the Clymers which said to use a a blind hole bearing puller to remove the bearing after heatong the assembly to 128* C.

Long story short had to go to Oregon to deliver my wife's laptop to her and stopped at Harbor Freight to see what they might have. They had a blind hole bearing puller item #95987 on sale for $32.99 and the lady in front of me at the check stand gave me her 20% off single item coupon. She offered it! Go figure! Out the door in Oregon for $26 and change.

Put the bearing in the freezer, heated the housing, used the HF puller and 3 whacks with the included slide hammer and out popped the bearing. Sweeeet! Tapped the new bearing in place and finished the install.

Test ride revealed no leaks, abs and speedo work, all seems to be well. Had one scare when I hit a bump and heard a strange thud behind me. Uh oh! Turned out the trunk lid was not latched but the latch was closed so the lid hopped up and then came down against the latch making a heart stopping noise. Whew!

Thanks one more time to John Z et.al for the video and to AklaskaFish for the loan of the tool.

One suggestion just came to mind. When I watched the videos by pulling them down real time off the internet I could not jump back and forth within the video. I downloaded them and was able to go back and forth at will within the videos. Much more convenient.

Loren
 

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Curious if you replaced anything in that deep? Clutch slave? Peek in on the crown bearing?
If not, why? How many miles on your bike?

Like I said, just curious about what others do or do not, and what their thinking is.

Frank
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Good questions. I didn't replace the slave cylinder because it wasn't leaking. If it had been I would have replaced the slave cylinder and the hose. Didn't open the FD because A.) it wasn't part of the current project, and B.) there are no signs or symptoms of impending failure. This being said after spending some time with AlaskaFish who explained how to measure the pre-load I would not be afraid to check it. He really made sense out of how to do the check. This would be an awesome tech session project.

BTW it is not a difficult or long process to get this deep into the drive train. Maybe 4 hrs for disassemble and re-assemble plus 30 mins to pull the defective pivot bearing and drive in the new one. Not counting drive times to get the part and tool from HF. It is much easier and less time consuming than diving into the stingray as no tupperware has to be removed! Only the foot peg plates.

I am certain that my FD has been off the bike prior to me buying it. I haven't checked with a dealer to see if there are any service records on file for the bike. I bought the bike, an '01, a year ago this month with 7800 miles on the clock and it now shows 19,000 miles.

Loren

fpmlt said:
Curious if you replaced anything in that deep? Clutch slave? Peek in on the crown bearing?
If not, why? How many miles on your bike?

Like I said, just curious about what others do or do not, and what their thinking is.

Frank
 

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Another way to drift out the pivot bearings:
A custom made drift using a 1/2 drive socket extension, and an appropriate sized 1/2 drive socket.
Method:
1/2 drive socket extension inserted through one pivot bearing.
Insert the 1/2 drive socket extension into a socket with an external diameter that fits the internal aspect of the opposite side pivot bearing race.
Using this setup, you can drift out one pivot by passing your drift though the opposite side bearing.
Maybe this will help someone who wants to change pivot bearings without shopping for a blind hole bearing puller.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
And the voice of experience speaks again! Couldn't see the forest for the trees at the time I was doing the work, the book said I needed to use the blind puller so I figured I needed one!

Besides, now I have 1 more blow molded case containing tools that I will use only rarely! :( But the next time I need one I'll have it! :dance:

Thanks Charlie!

Loren
 

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Loren glad to hear you got her done. Just did mine 2 months ago.

I replaced my pivot bearings with Rubber Chickens Oilite bushings. http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com/bushings.html

I need to order another set for when I make a run up to Curtis to check my new spare final drive. I think I like the idea of these and while not cheap I beleive they will last a very long time.

You know once you do this stuff the mystery is uncovered and while you need to have a little bit on the ball with a wrench, it goes pretty well in my experience.

Congratulations on your successful preemptive strike.
 
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