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i have a 2000 k1200lt i bought used , it has 50k miles and has developed a noise and bumping i feel in the pegs, i thought it might be the final drive, i drained it and look like it was full of silver, magnet was covered, after i changed it there was no difference on the test ride, with power and without power and free wheeling, it stays the same, i need help diagnosing it

thanks
 

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Anything other than gray "fuzz" on the magnet is BAD news. Silver flakes are galled bearings, classic big bearing failure. Ride no more until you get it rebuilt. After you get a few more posts you will be able to send Private Messages (PM). Then PM Saddleman here on this site he is the expert re builder.
 

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i have a 2000 k1200lt i bought used , it has 50k miles and has developed a noise and bumping i feel in the pegs, i thought it might be the final drive, i drained it and look like it was full of silver, magnet was covered, after i changed it there was no difference on the test ride, with power and without power and free wheeling, it stays the same, i need help diagnosing it

thanks
Welcome to the forum Randy. When you say you changed it, what did you change? The oil or the final drive? If the final drive was full of silver, then you are in a full blown crown bearing failure and you should stop riding it immediately or you will do more damage and it may end up not being rebuildable. Changing the oil will not save it at this point. You need a few more posts to send a PM to him but the go to guy for LT final drive rebuilds is Dave ( aka Saddleman ). There is no one doing a better job for less money including any dealer. 50K on an 00 is about right for this type of failure with the cause being metal fatigue on the bearing from an over shimmed condition. Saddleman will fix that.
 

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Just gonna jump in on this post as I’m seeing some oil in my final drive and wondering if I need to be concerned. Thanks 😎
Mildly concerned. You are looking at either a leaking pinion seal (this was my problem the first time I saw this) or a leaking transmission output seal (this was my problem the second time I saw this). Both are expensive repairs, but generally you can ride this way for a while as long as you keep the oil levels up.
 

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Just gonna jump in on this post as I’m seeing some oil in my final drive and wondering if I need to be concerned. Thanks 😎
As Matt said, you are leaking at one of two places if not both :) The output shaft seal is at the front of the drive shaft and when it leaks, it runs down the swing arm to the rubber boot and leaks out there. The pinion seal just pools up and then leaks out the boot also. As Matt said, you can go awhile before fixing it but do keep an eye on the levels. There are some special tools required to be made and or purchased/borrowed to do either seal. The pinion seal is embedded in the castle lock ring and the threads need to be cleaned well and a non hardening sealer applied so your best interest is to fully disassemble, clean and reassemble so not to get any grit in the FD bearings. Neither are a small job to reach but replacing the seals is easy keeping in mind that there is a depth limit on the output shaft seal or it will hit the oil hole in the shaft and leak as if it wasn't there.

When you are ready to tackle it, let us know and we will support you through it or you could do the smarter thing if you are not ASE certifiable and if it is the FD, send it to Saddleman for a rebuild and inspection and be done with it.
 

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Dealer said if its the first seal it would be $450 as far as up to $750. Is there a special oil or is it just rear end oil? My guess is that you check it the same way right? Bryan
 

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Dealer said if its the first seal it would be $450 as far as up to $750. Is there a special oil or is it just rear end oil? My guess is that you check it the same way right? Bryan
Any good GL5 Hypoid 75W90 will work depending on your disposition on Dino VS Syn. Not going to get into that here. The FD doesn't hold very much oil so keeping an eye on that is more important as long as it isn't flowing out of the bottom of the boot. The transmission is a little more difficult to reach the fill hole with removing foot plates to reach it for a check. The FD is filled no higher than the bottom of the threads on the fill hole when on the CS and a slight bit less won't hurt but it would give you a point of reference. Pull back the boot and see if oil drips out. You have the matal screw band on the front so that should be easy. Honestly, you would have to pull the FD to see which seal is leaking as you can't see in well enough with it in the way. Not sure if a bore scope would fit and give you a good enough view of the swing arm inner surfaces to see if oil is running down or flowing up to the boot. If enough has leaked to see it on the outside of the boot, then it is already in a pool around the pinion shaft. If you don't see any signs up the swing arm, then it is likely the pinion seal. Keep an eye on how much comes out and the FD is your easier target to check if it is dropping any. Topping off or checking the trans couldn't hurt so you know where you are on both to start with.
 

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Dealer said if its the first seal it would be $450 as far as up to $750. Is there a special oil or is it just rear end oil? My guess is that you check it the same way right? Bryan
Probably cheaper and almost certainly better to have Saddleman repair your FD if the pinion seal is the issue. That way the bearing preload can be set properly also.
 

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Hey Voyager, do you know about how much Saddleman charges for the rebuild? still tryig to get enough posts to pm him
 

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Hey Voyager, do you know about how much Saddleman charges for the rebuild? still tryig to get enough posts to pm him
Mine was about $425ish if I recall correctly back in the fall of 2015. Other than not having a bike to ride for a few weeks, it was a good experience working with Saddleman.
 

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Thanks Munmi, with summer coming up there is not to much riding in hundred plus weather, but we do ride all year long, and you had a hard winter, hope you are riding now
 

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Hey Voyager, do you know about how much Saddleman charges for the rebuild? still tryig to get enough posts to pm him
I do not. I had mine rebuilt by Tom Cutter before I knew Saddleman was doing rebuilds. Mine had a pinion seal leak, not a bearing failure, but I had Tom give it the full Monty. He replaced the large bearing, all seals and reshimmed and checked tooth pattern. I forget my exact cost, and this was 6-7 years ago, but I think around $600.

As an aside, Tom recommends 220 ml fill, not the 240 or so in the manuals and not to the bottom of the fill hole. I believe Tom said there was a BMW service bulletin on this. This lessens the likelihood of leakage through the vent. Mine is about 1/4" below the fill hole with 220.

Also, Tom recommends using Castrol Hypoy C (old designation, I forget what it is called now) dino oil. He is not a fan of synthetics in these bikes, either gearbox or FD. He said most failures he gets have synthetic lube.

I use synthetic in all my cars and trucks and have done so since the 70s, and this may be pure concidence, but my LT didn't have oil leakage problems until the dealer put synthetic lube in at the 18K service. It then developed both transmission and FD leaks that required FD rebuild and clutch replacement and all new rotating shaft seals in my transmission. I could not believe it when I removed the transmission. All three rotating shaft seals were leaking gear oil badly. I noticed the new BMW seals looked different than the originals (color mainly).

While I can't definitively pin the blame on the oil, I am sticking with dino oil. It is cheaper and works fine at the temps I ride in. I don't ride below zero or above 120 where synthetics really have their biggest advantages. I would use synthetic in a bike that came with it from the factory, but to the best of my knowledge all LTs shipped with dino.
 
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Probably cheaper and almost certainly better to have Saddleman repair your FD if the pinion seal is the issue. That way the bearing preload can be set properly also.
Agree... history has clearly proven that only a handful of dealers know how to properly rebuilt and shim these. Repeated failures have been very common during last 18 years in these cases.

On the other hand, with Saddleman, you are sure he knows. So why take any chance with a dealer that may OR MAY NOT ??
 

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thanks bunches fellas, i am calling him tonight or tomorrow

even though my bike is 18 years old, it is a great ride, better than traveling on my road glide
 

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Agree... history has clearly proven that only a handful of dealers know how to properly rebuilt and shim these. Repeated failures have been very common during last 18 years in these cases.

On the other hand, with Saddleman, you are sure he knows. So why take any chance with a dealer that may OR MAY NOT ??
Other than Saddleman, the only other folks I would trust to rebuild a final drive correctly are:

Tom Cutter, PA, Rubber Chicken Racing Garage

Anton Largiader, VA, www.largiader.com
 
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..... and you had a hard winter, hope you are riding now
Winter held its grip firmly until about 2 weeks ago. Not riding the LT yet as it is still on the lift getting new brake lines and some other services while it's undressed. Did ride the KLR for 5 miles today for first cycletherapy session of the season.
 

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Winter held its grip firmly until about 2 weeks ago. Not riding the LT yet as it is still on the lift getting new brake lines and some other services while it's undressed. Did ride the KLR for 5 miles today for first cycletherapy session of the season.

Off topic, but how do you like your KLR? I test rode one last year and nearly bought it. Pretty much the opposite of the LT, but looks like a fun bike with tons of aftermarket support. My main hesitance was dealing with a chain again. I would much prefer a belt, but not many smaller bikes offer that.

I am looking for something to complement the LT for local riding and for the times the LT is down waiting on repairs or parts.
 
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