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Discussion Starter #1
I read one thread covering this topic, but it was discussing oil pan gasket sealant. I am going to check my valve clearances tomorrow and the BMW service manual recommends Three Bond 1209 sealant for the valve cover gasket, which no one in Columbus has. The previous thread suggested Yamabond, Hondabond, or maybe Permatex Black for the oil pan. I have a tube of Three Bond 1104 which I used when installing the supercharger on my 1990 Miata, but I don't think it the same.

What should I use on the valve cover gasket that could be found locally?

Thanks,
 

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REWDOC said:
I read one thread covering this topic, but it was discussing oil pan gasket sealant. I am going to check my valve clearances tomorrow and the BMW service manual recommends Three Bond 1209 sealant for the valve cover gasket, which no one in Columbus has. The previous thread suggested Yamabond, Hondabond, or maybe Permatex Black for the oil pan. I have a tube of Three Bond 1104 which I used when installing the supercharger on my 1990 Miata, but I don't think it the same.

What should I use on the valve cover gasket that could be found locally?

Thanks,
Dick, I think the boyz in the 'hood use RTV Red (high heat) - we pick it up at a NAPA store. Doesn't take much, so the tube lasts quite awhile. If you're gonna re-use your old one, be sure and CAREFULLY remove the old sealant at those 'humpover' corners - otherwise, just a leetle dab'll do ya in a new gasket. HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Dick. I'm off to NAPA.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Should I use a new gasket?

Dick said:
Dick, I think the boyz in the 'hood use RTV Red (high heat) - we pick it up at a NAPA store. Doesn't take much, so the tube lasts quite awhile. If you're gonna re-use your old one, be sure and CAREFULLY remove the old sealant at those 'humpover' corners - otherwise, just a leetle dab'll do ya in a new gasket. HTH
OK, I got the Permatex RTV Red, 26B, 650 degree stuff.

Is it OK to use the old gasket, if it looks good? The BMW Parts man tried to sell me a new one for about $30.00. :eek: He said I should use a new one every time I take the valve cover off. I just figured he was trying to sell gaskets. ;) It's been awhile since I've been to a tech session, but if I remember correctly, we reused the old gasket. What should I clean the old gasket with?
 

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REWDOC said:
OK, I got the Permatex RTV Red, 26B, 650 degree stuff.

Is it OK to use the old gasket, if it looks good? The BMW Parts man tried to sell me a new one for about $30.00. :eek: He said I should use a new one every time I take the valve cover off. I just figured he was trying to sell gaskets. ;) It's been awhile since I've been to a tech session, but if I remember correctly, we reused the old gasket. What should I clean the old gasket with?
That's the same stuff I've used so you should be fine. As for the gasket, personally I would not reuse the gasket, but I know some folks here have, and I don't recall any reports of leaks or problems from doing so. I just prefer to give it a new one while I have it apart, considering it's a PITA to redo it if it starts leaking.
 

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BMW no longer recommends changing the gasket each time. I bought a spare to have on hand when it comes time or in case I messed it up.
 

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The permatex silicone sealant specked for high heat is fine. You can reuse the gasket. My valve cover gasket is on it's third remount.
Yamabond is good stuff usually used for sealing centercases on motors. the drawback is removing the yamabond the next time you do the job. Good Luck1
 

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JeffB said:
BMW no longer recommends changing the gasket each time. I bought a spare to have on hand when it comes time or in case I messed it up.
Yup, if the current one hasn't been removed more'n twice, I'd use it one more time, BUTT!, I'd make sure I cleaned ALL the old sealant outta the grooves. I don't know anythang that'll do that better than your fingernail and maybe the plastic tine from a picnic fork - nothing with sharp points or edges.

Good luck, Dick. Just don't get in a hurry doing the prep work on the gasket. And a good torque wrench will make buttonin' back up worry free.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
grifscoots said:
Hey Dick, don't forget to tighten that one recessed valve cover bolt in the front, or you'll be wearing oil on your pant leg and boot!!
Thanks Grif, I'll be on the look out for it. I have a friend who races late model dirt track cars and builds Winston Cup engines coming over to help me check the clearances.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Dick said:
Good luck, Dick. Just don't get in a hurry doing the prep work on the gasket. And a good torque wrench will make buttonin' back up worry free.
Thanks again, Dick. I bought a Craftsman nM torque wrench and should be ready to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
wardenross said:
Doc,

Let us know if any of your clearances were out. How many miles on your LT?
Hi Allen,

I have 25,400 on it currently. The mechanic at BMW Atlanta said he had not seen one out of specs until around 50,000. I'll let you know.
 

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No need to use hign temp red!

I was flying home yesterday, so did not see this until this morning.

I use Permatex Ultra Black sealant on just about everything.

I do re-use the valve cover gaskets 2-3 times. As long as they are flexible and not damaged any way, they are fine. I had over 100,000 miles on my last LT, re-used gaskets at least 3 times, never had an oil leak from any joint or gasket other than the early one where the dealer had to re-seal the timing cover. I had the timing cover off a few times myself, always re-sealed it with Permatex Ultra Black.

I only put a tiny dab of sealant at the corners of the half moon cutouts in the head front and back, and on the two joints at front where the timing cover mates with the head. There is NO need to put sealant anywhere else on the gasket. These type of gaskets seal well with no sealant at all where they are flat, but small leaks can develop anywhere they cross a seam or in any corners.

No need to use the HIGH TEMP sealants either, just plain silicone will do nicely. The high temp sealants are for things that get HOT, and are rated for over 500 degrees. If the head gets over 220, you have a big problem.

As Grif pointed out, be sure you get that front middle valve cover screw back and tightened! He and I both learned about that one the hard way.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks

Thanks David,

I had several errands to do this morning, so I'm getting off to a late start, 2:20 PM. :( If I can get the Tupperware off, the tranny changed and maybe the fuel and air filter done today, I'll consider it a good day. :cool: I'll probably get to the valves tomorrow night or Weds night. I also have to put on a new rear tire. If I get all this done, I'll be a set for another really long trip! ;) :D
 

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dshealey said:
I was flying home yesterday, so did not see this until this morning.

I use Permatex Ultra Black sealant on just about everything.

I do re-use the valve cover gaskets 2-3 times. As long as they are flexible and not damaged any way, they are fine. I had over 100,000 miles on my last LT, re-used gaskets at least 3 times, never had an oil leak from any joint or gasket other than the early one where the dealer had to re-seal the timing cover. I had the timing cover off a few times myself, always re-sealed it with Permatex Ultra Black.

I only put a tiny dab of sealant at the corners of the half moon cutouts in the head front and back, and on the two joints at front where the timing cover mates with the head. There is NO need to put sealant anywhere else on the gasket. These type of gaskets seal well with no sealant at all where they are flat, but small leaks can develop anywhere they cross a seam or in any corners.

No need to use the HIGH TEMP sealants either, just plain silicone will do nicely. The high temp sealants are for things that get HOT, and are rated for over 500 degrees. If the head gets over 220, you have a big problem.

As Grif pointed out, be sure you get that front middle valve cover screw back and tightened! He and I both learned about that one the hard way.
I really like this stuff also since it cures very slowly - gives you plenty of time to put everything back together without worrying about it air curing too fast.

Toss on a latex glove (or silicone if you're the sensistive type like Grif) and smooth it on with your finger in a very THIN layer. Less is more! :yeah:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Valve clearances

wardenross said:
Doc,

Let us know if any of your clearances were out. How many miles on your LT?
Allen,

I just finished checking them last night. All were within specs. I'll post the actual readings when I get a chance. Bike has 25,400 miles on it. Motor looked brand new inside.
 

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Permatex, aviation grade, either that or 3M weather striping glue. The next owner will surely cuss you cause you not anyone else will get it apart without a lot of work and a lot of words.

Good golly, just kidding.

Any flavor of silicon gasket sealer, just a little dab in the corners is all that's needed. That gasket should be useable a number of times. Clean it upon removal and you should be good.

Excessive amounts of silicon can be bad, what you see squished out to the outside, same thing on the inside. It comes off and can plug and oil passage, a very bad thing. Had a buddy have that happen on a K1 Honda many years ago.

Grif:
I know that's the voice of experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Vavle Clearance Data

wardenross said:
Doc,

Let us know if any of your clearances were out. How many miles on your LT?

Valve clearance numbers on my 2002 LT with 25,386 miles on it:

INTAKE
1A = 0.007 1B = 0.008 2A = 0.007 2B = 0.008 3A = 0.008 3B = 0.007
4A = 0.007 4B = 0.007

EXHAUST
1A = 0.011 1B = 0.012 2A = 0.011 2B = 0.011 3A = 0.012 3B = 0.12
4A = O.012 4B = 0.012
 
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