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So, now that i`ve done pretty much all of the preventative maintenance on my LT, I`m ready for my next adventure, checking the valve clearance. Just how much of a pain is this precedure ?
 

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tenrocky said:
So, now that i`ve done pretty much all of the preventative maintenance on my LT, I`m ready for my next adventure, checking the valve clearance. Just how much of a pain is this precedure ?
The checking part is not that bad. Take the left side tupperware off, remove the crash bar, remove the valve cover, manually bump the engine around while in fifth gear, measure the clearance. Don't forget to blow out the spark plugs before you take the valve cover off. Just did it for the first time.

After you find a few out of spec, then is becomes more challenging.
 

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tenrocky said:
So, now that i`ve done pretty much all of the preventative maintenance on my LT, I`m ready for my next adventure, checking the valve clearance. Just how much of a pain is this precedure ?
Eazy peazy - for a start, here is some reading material on checking valves, with pics. You can find some more using the search feature in the HoW pages. HTH.
 

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Checking is easy, swapping buckets a bit tougher, but not too bad. I just swapped buckets for the first time this summer and the only hiccup was getting the chain adjuster pinned. I thought I had it, but when it was time to go back together it was obvious it wasn't. Not a crisis, just used a long screw driver and slow pressure to back the tensionor back into position.

The article Dick pointed you to was the one I used.

Jim H.
 

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I'm in the midst of performing the valve adjustment for the first time. The valve check revealed four intake valves that are too tight. It took awhile but I finally was able to insert the drill bit into the cam chain tension adjuster but it sure doesn't seem like it provided much slack to the cam chain. Should the cam chain be noticeably loose around the sprockets once the drill bit is inserted through the cam chain adjuster cover? My concern is that I'm going to have a dickens of a time getting the sprocket back onto the end of the camshaft when I'm ready to reassemble the intake cam.

Thanks Dick for posting the link to the gun smoke article, very helpful!

Thanks
Dave
 

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djthompson43 said:
It took awhile but I finally was able to insert the drill bit into the cam chain tension adjuster but it sure doesn't seem like it provided much slack to the cam chain. Should the cam chain be noticeably loose around the sprockets once the drill bit is inserted through the cam chain adjuster cover? My concern is that I'm going to have a dickens of a time getting the sprocket back onto the end of the camshaft when I'm ready to reassemble the intake cam.
Dave
Dave,
I just did the same thing last week and had the same issues you mention, also used the same Web page for instructions. Belive it or not that little slack will work, you will have to pull the sprocket a little to get it reseated but it will go back on. I did a little practice before I removed the cam, took the sprocket off and back on a couple time before going all the way.
Be careful of the exhaust buckets they will slid out a little when you remove the cam, don't want to get them mixed. Take them out one at a time make note of size, place them in order on clean surface. Also take note of the numbers on the cam holders, and the mounting direction. If you get it wrong the cover will not line up..don't ask how I know.

HTH :wave
 

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Thanks John, I really appreciate your feedback! Fortunately I only have to remove the intake cam where the buckets point upwards and are not likely to just slide out when the cam is removed, but I appreciate your point to make sure I keep everything organized so that it goes back on in the same location and orientation. I realize the chain will be zip-tied to the sprockets but what, if anything, supports the sprocket once it is removed from the end of the cam shaft? Does it just fall slack until it is reinstalled on the cam?

Thanks,
Dave
 

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Yes it does. Be sure to put ties (x2) on BOTH gears, not just the intake cam.
 

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djthompson43 said:
I realize the chain will be zip-tied to the sprockets but what, if anything, supports the sprocket once it is removed from the end of the cam shaft? Does it just fall slack until it is reinstalled on the cam?

Thanks,
Dave
Dave,

As jzeiler mentions above be sure to zip both gears. The plastic guide will also need to be removed to get the cam off and it will just about fall off the chain once the sprocket is removed.

After you remove the sprocket the cam might snap into a different position due to the valves pushing on the lobs. But not to worry when you are putting it back on you will be using the 19 mm wrench to re-align the cam with the sprocket. I put the sprocket back on the cam and loosely turned the bolt on, then rocked the cam with the wrench to get the pin to align with the slot in the sprocket.

It's only scarey while you are doing it...then you will turn the motor over a few times saying to yourself "I think I did it right, I am sure I did it right". :)
 

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I was able to remove the intake cam and pull the buckets, yeehaw! Every bucket was a 2.900MM thickness. I will need four 2.85MM buckets to resolve the four "tight" intake valves. The hunt begins tomorrow for these buckets!!!

Thanks for all the support and guidance that got me this far, but you certainly haven't heard the last from me since I still have to get this sucker back together!

Thanks,
Dave
 

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I just know I'm going to have trouble finding the buckets I need so I started to wonder, is there a reason why a 2.900MM bucket can not be machined down to a 2.85MM bucket? The company I work for has a very sophisticated machine shop that manufactures components used in the space and defense industry. Not sure I could convince one of the guys to try this or not, but I'm gonna take one of the buckets to work and see what I can find out

Anybody out there know of a reason why this can't, or shouldn't be done? One obvious problem is that I"ll be creating shims that are mis-marked to the true dimension, which creates potential problems down the road. Probably a way to etch the new dimension onto the inside of the bucket.

The more I think about it, it's a bad idea.... I just need to find the right size buckets.....sometimes I'm just such a cheap bastard!
 

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I did 13 of mine, you are never going to need that size again unless you rebuild the head, waste of beer money if you ask me, grind down the raised part inside measuring VERY VERY carefully with a micrometer as you go, document what you have done for future reference - for yourself or if you sell the bike
 

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Everything is back together and she fired right up, purring like a kitten! Like everyone said, once you've done it it really doesn't seem that difficult! I was fortunate to locate the four buckets I needed at the local dealership, $21.00 apiece. Looks like the 24k maintenance is going to run me about $295.00 for parts and lubes. Toughest part to swallow was the $60.00 cylinder head gasket (ouch!) which probably didn't need replacing.

Again, thanks for all the guidance and encouragement. Would never have attempted this without the backing of this forum!

Dave
 

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djthompson43 said:
Everything is back together and she fired right up, purring like a kitten! Like everyone said, once you've done it it really doesn't seem that difficult! I was fortunate to locate the four buckets I needed at the local dealership, $21.00 apiece. Looks like the 24k maintenance is going to run me about $295.00 for parts and lubes. Toughest part to swallow was the $60.00 cylinder head gasket (ouch!) which probably didn't need replacing.

Again, thanks for all the guidance and encouragement. Would never have attempted this without the backing of this forum!

Dave
I got the gasket. Realized that I didn't need it. Tried to return the sealed new gasket and the dealer charges me $20 as restocking fee. Ouch - paying $20 for something didn't need hurts even more.
 

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Did the dealer order the head gasket for you or was it already in his stock? If he had to order it for you then the charge, although hard to swallow, was probably warranted. If it was in stock and he charged you the $20 then he is a rat bastard and you need to find another dealer!

Loren
 
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