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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, n00b here. Bought a 2006 KLT w.39kMiles on it last week and planning on doing full maintenance on it (Inspection III ?). Checked the book on the valve check process and it tells you to remove the camshaft sprockets prior to removing the camshafts themselves if adjustment is needed.

I've done this job to many jap bikes and I've always just zip-tied the chain to the sprockets and moved them aside to gain access to the shims. So my question is, can this also be done with the K-motor too?

P.S. Does anyone know of a shop or individual in San Diego county, CA that would be willing to swap buckets if needed?
 
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Hello all, n00b here. Bought a 2006 KLT w.39kMiles on it last week and planning on doing full maintenance on it (Inspection III ?). Checked the book on the valve check process and it tells you to remove the camshaft sprockets prior to removing the camshafts themselves if adjustment is needed.

I've done this job to many jap bikes and I've always just zip-tied the chain to the sprockets and moved them aside to gain access to the shims. So my question is, can this also be done with the K-motor too?

P.S. Does anyone know of a shop or individual in San Diego county, CA that would be willing to swap buckets if needed?
That is the procedure.

Robert
 

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FWIW mine were OK until the 48 K inspection then I changed 4 of them, one at the 62 K and 76 K and I most likely will not change any at the 104 K as they have settled down. Many of us have provided bucket swaps but if you do that enough you end up with a whole bunch of the same size:).
 

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Hello all, n00b here. Bought a 2006 KLT w.39kMiles on it last week and planning on doing full maintenance on it (Inspection III ?). Checked the book on the valve check process and it tells you to remove the camshaft sprockets prior to removing the camshafts themselves if adjustment is needed.

I've done this job to many jap bikes and I've always just zip-tied the chain to the sprockets and moved them aside to gain access to the shims. So my question is, can this also be done with the K-motor too?

P.S. Does anyone know of a shop or individual in San Diego county, CA that would be willing to swap buckets if needed?
I don't follow your question. You ask if the sprockets have to be removed before removing the cams. And then you say you have removed the sprockets on many Japanese bikes.

Are you surprised that the K engine is similar to Japanese engines with bucket shim valve trains? Or is there some other subtlety to your question that I am missing? It seems you answered your own question above.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I don't follow your question. You ask if the sprockets have to be removed before removing the cams. And then you say you have removed the sprockets on many Japanese bikes.

Are you surprised that the K engine is similar to Japanese engines with bucket shim valve trains? Or is there some other subtlety to your question that I am missing? It seems you answered your own question above.
First; Thank you all for your advise and links. I've watched a lot of Kirk's videos, awesome stuff.

Voyager; Maybe I wasn't clear enough; I meant that on the jap bikes I've done this on I've always left the sprockets on the cams and then just turn the cams (w. sprockets on) to the side to gain access to the buckets. My question was is there anything in the K-motor that prevents this or do the sprockets HAVE to come off? Just looking to save some time, that's all.

I've ridden the bike about 200 miles and I think I can hear some valve clatter, but if anyone thinks it could be something else, I'm all ears. I know that this is hard to "diagnose" without actually hearing the noise but maybe there's something that's typical for this motor/trans that rattles, especially when accelerating. Cam chain tensioner letting loose perhaps? Followers worn out?
 

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First; Thank you all for your advise and links. I've watched a lot of Kirk's videos, awesome stuff.

Voyager; Maybe I wasn't clear enough; I meant that on the jap bikes I've done this on I've always left the sprockets on the cams and then just turn the cams (w. sprockets on) to the side to gain access to the buckets. My question was is there anything in the K-motor that prevents this or do the sprockets HAVE to come off? Just looking to save some time, that's all.

I've ridden the bike about 200 miles and I think I can hear some valve clatter, but if anyone thinks it could be something else, I'm all ears. I know that this is hard to "diagnose" without actually hearing the noise but maybe there's something that's typical for this motor/trans that rattles, especially when accelerating. Cam chain tensioner letting loose perhaps? Followers worn out?
Usually K1200s tighten the valve clearance with wear. It is relatively easy to pull the valve cover to check clearances. I would do that first. Re-use the gasket with small dabs of silicone at the corners of the half moon shaped pieces. Some K1200s are quire noisy. I seem to have one of the relatively quiet ones.

Robert
 

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First; Thank you all for your advise and links. I've watched a lot of Kirk's videos, awesome stuff.

Voyager; Maybe I wasn't clear enough; I meant that on the jap bikes I've done this on I've always left the sprockets on the cams and then just turn the cams (w. sprockets on) to the side to gain access to the buckets. My question was is there anything in the K-motor that prevents this or do the sprockets HAVE to come off? Just looking to save some time, that's all.

I've ridden the bike about 200 miles and I think I can hear some valve clatter, but if anyone thinks it could be something else, I'm all ears. I know that this is hard to "diagnose" without actually hearing the noise but maybe there's something that's typical for this motor/trans that rattles, especially when accelerating. Cam chain tensioner letting loose perhaps? Followers worn out?
I don't see any way to rotate the LT cams with the sprockets and chain attached. This would require severely twisting the chain and likely damaging it. Removing the sprockets isn't hard and eliminates the possibility of damaging something.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
^Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for.

Now if only someone knew about a place here in San Diego county that swaps buckets.. My go-to bike shop does not stock them, darn.
 

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^Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for.

Now if only someone knew about a place here in San Diego county that swaps buckets.. My go-to bike shop does not stock them, darn.
I ordered mine online.
 
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^Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for.

Now if only someone knew about a place here in San Diego county that swaps buckets.. My go-to bike shop does not stock them, darn.
You won't know what size you need until you do the measurement and pull the cams if needed. After pulling the cams you may be able to shuffle a few around. Make a list and post it here some folks have "spare" buckets. If you order them online go to Maxbmw and get a bag of M&M's with you order. HTH :wave
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You won't know what size you need until you do the measurement and pull the cams if needed. After pulling the cams you may be able to shuffle a few around. Make a list and post it here some folks have "spare" buckets. If you order them online go to Maxbmw and get a bag of M&M's with you order. HTH :wave
Thanks. I know how swapping the shims, or in this case, buckets work. My local bike shop swaps the shims that most Jap bikes use for free, which is nice, but like I said, they don't stock the Beemer buckets.

I'll be back bugging you guys if I indeed need to get some used ones.

Thanks again to all of you, this is a great community!
 

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First; Thank you all for your advise and links. I've watched a lot of Kirk's videos, awesome stuff.

Voyager; Maybe I wasn't clear enough; I meant that on the jap bikes I've done this on I've always left the sprockets on the cams and then just turn the cams (w. sprockets on) to the side to gain access to the buckets. My question was is there anything in the K-motor that prevents this or do the sprockets HAVE to come off? Just looking to save some time, that's all.

I've ridden the bike about 200 miles and I think I can hear some valve clatter, but if anyone thinks it could be something else, I'm all ears. I know that this is hard to "diagnose" without actually hearing the noise but maybe there's something that's typical for this motor/trans that rattles, especially when accelerating. Cam chain tensioner letting loose perhaps? Followers worn out?
The brick engine on the K bikes is often referred to as a " Box of Rocks" Don't listen too carefully or you will hear noises you don't want to hear. Ear plugs are good when riding. :)

In all seriousness, these engines make noises normally so unless it is really bad, most you shouldn't bee too concerned about.

As for valve clatter, keep in mind that the valves wear to become tighter, not loser so unless it is really a wide gap and far out of spec, it may be in your better interest to leave it if it is close as in time, it will only get closer. Tight clearance is where you should be concerned especially on the exhaust side. At $31.15 US each plus shipping from the MAX BMW site, it doesn't take too many buckets to make valve adjustments for small amounts an expensive task.
 
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