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Discussion Starter #1
Guys;

I took of the lower plastic, and the plug cover and removed the valve cover and gasket.

I tried to rotate the rear wheel to get the number 1 valve ready to check, but the rear wheel is to hard to turn with the plugs in.

I really need to take the plugs out to take the valve measurements, or is there an easier way and leave the plugs in!!

Waiting for the replys before I advance,
Thanking you in advance,

Bowdon

Its a 2005 lt.
 

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bowdon said:
Guys;

I took of the lower plastic, and the plug cover and removed the valve cover and gasket.

I tried to rotate the rear wheel to get the number 1 valve ready to check, but the rear wheel is to hard to turn with the plugs in.

I really need to take the plugs out to take the valve measurements, or is there an easier way and leave the plugs in!!

Waiting for the replys before I advance,
Thanking you in advance,

Bowdon

Its a 2005 lt.
Wuz the gearbox in 5th gear? That's where I put ole Toad's gear, and just bounce-rotate the wheel to get rotation so that the cam lobes move.
 

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Use 5th gear when rotating with the rear tire or remove the front timing cover and use an allen socket to rotate the crankshaft (CCW viewed from the front)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Dick said:
Wuz the gearbox in 5th gear? That's where I put ole Toad's gear, and just bounce-rotate the wheel to get rotation so that the cam lobes move.
Dick;

Yes its in 5th but extremely hard to get the wheel to move!!
It would be easier to rotate the tire with the plugs out, right??
Bowdon
 

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Make sure you have it in 1st gear. It should be easy to rock the rear wheel back and forth to bump the engine around. Did it many times, on multiple bikes.

Pulling the plugs before checking the clearances is a no-no on these engines, can cause false readings.

edit; Wrong! Don't know what I was thinking about, it is 5th gear you want!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
dshealey said:
Make sure you have it in 1st gear. It should be easy to rock the rear wheel back and forth to bump the engine around. Did it many times, on multiple bikes.

Pulling the plugs before checking the clearances is a no-no on these engines, can cause false readings.
Dave;

I thought 5th gear was mentioned, first would be easier?
 

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Don - I found it easy to rotate the engine in 5th sitting behind it using both arms to pull at the bottom of the wheel
 

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Discussion Starter #8
gary45 said:
Don - I found it easy to rotate the engine in 5th sitting behind it using both arms to pull at the bottom of the wheel
Gary;

Just finished the valve check, all seem within the specs. ( one a little loose but within the spec).

The wheel was hard to get around, but finally got it moving!!
Gasket look OK will reinstall and let it dry for an hour that start er up!! to see if any leaks.

Regards,
Bowdon
 

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Dick said:
Wuz the gearbox in 5th gear? That's where I put ole Toad's gear, and just bounce-rotate the wheel to get rotation so that the cam lobes move.
Dick has it right 5th gear and just bounce the tire or bump it call it what you want to. You don't just rotate it you bounce or bump it to rotate it a little bit at a time.
 

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bowdon said:
Dave;

I thought 5th gear was mentioned, first would be easier?
It is 5th gear. Suffered a brain freeze.
 

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Bowdon -- I never checked my value clearance -- although I would like to. I am guessing that all that one needs is a feeler gauge -- is this correct? Pardon my ignorance, where did you get that feeler gauge -- pep boys or some other retail shop?

Glenn
 

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dshealey said:
It is 5th gear. Suffered a brain freeze.
That's OK, David... You have probably forgotten more about LTs than I will ever know about them!
 

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I think I levered a axe handle in the "spoke" of the wheel against the final drive to allow some leverage on bumping the wheel with my foot while checking clearance.
 

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I watched Sayegh's video twinkle towing the engine around with his foot to do the valve check. He either had the plugs out, or all his piston rings are shot, or he is Bigfoot in disguise. :D I'm in the process, and had to use both hands on the wheel with the bump movement proclaimed here. :)
 

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The trick is to use the slack in the drive train to build momentum so when you "hit" the end it moves the cams a few degrees at a whack. That is why top gear is your friend.
 

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Confession time. My K12LT is my 5th original K motored bike both 2 and 4 valve. I always pull the plugs to facilitate turning the engine over for a valve check. The recommendation to leave the plugs in comes from the notion that it's "possible" for a particle of carbon to come free from a plug being removed, wedge under the seat of an exhaust valve, and give an erroneous shim clearance reading.. On a normal running engine I've never seen plugs gunked up enough to feel that was a valid concern. But then I'm also a rather lazy sort so turning over a compressing engine isn't my idea of afternoon fun. I don't think I've miss-shimmed a valve yet.

JD
 

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True Jeff and everyone is entiled to thier opinion, some of us are just more "anal" than others!! Cheers:wave
 

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Roamrider said:
Confession time. My K12LT is my 5th original K motored bike both 2 and 4 valve. I always pull the plugs to facilitate turning the engine over for a valve check. The recommendation to leave the plugs in comes from the notion that it's "possible" for a particle of carbon to come free from a plug being removed, wedge under the seat of an exhaust valve, and give an erroneous shim clearance reading.. On a normal running engine I've never seen plugs gunked up enough to feel that was a valid concern. But then I'm also a rather lazy sort so turning over a compressing engine isn't my idea of afternoon fun. I don't think I've miss-shimmed a valve yet.

JD
The problem is that deposits around the edge of the plug body at the end of the threads can break off and fall down into an open valve. You are right, the possibility is pretty low, but it does exist. I for one would not do a valve check removing the plugs first, because I just do not want to take the chance, however small, of getting it wrong and having to open her up and do it all over again. Moving the engine by bumping the rear wheel is EASY, done it many times. Just not worth taking the chance for me. I just do not understand how anyone thinks it is difficult? You do not "spin" the engine, just bump it until the cams are in proper position to check the next few valves. You only have to re-position the cams 3-4 times to check all the valves. Certainly not much of a task overall when doing the valve check.
 
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