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Discussion Starter #1
All the valves are within specs. Now the not so good news. The #2 cam lobe of the #2 exhaust cylinder has 2 small pits. They are very minor so I'm just going to act like I didn't see them. Also, the lower rear valve cover screw is striped. Any suggestions on a preferred heli coil kit.
 

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dont worry about the cam should be ok, take a Picture and store it away the next time you do tappets see if there is any change. as for the stripped bolt you really need to fix this, a simple helicoil will repair the thread, since you already have everything off
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Axle, thanks for the reply. The helicoil will be done. I think I want a epoxy helicoil kit. Hell, half of this bike is held together with epoxy, the plastic, anyway. I haven't had stellar results with non epoxy coil kits. And as soon as my LT waterwings are complete, I'll be checking out that lake in your avitar.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Just remember the bolts that go in those holes just bottom out need not be turned further. I install them with a speed handle and when they stop turning I stop. That equates to 9 Nm.

I have had good luck rebuilding low torque threads with just J B Weld. Clean the hole (acetone) apply JB and lightly oil the bolt and screw it in. Let it sit 24 hours, loosen to break the thread bond to the bolt then tighten.
 

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And as soon as my LT waterwings are complete, I'll be checking out that lake in your avitar.
make sure you pick your travel time..... it can also look like this.. and this is in November (late spring in OZ). The lake is in Tasmania, Cradle Mountain - Dove Lake
Beautiful spot, and great riding (except in the snow)... a MUST DO on most Aussie motorcyclists bucket lists.
 

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Dove Lake, 63 Kms from my house, lovely place and the overland track from Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair is rated in the top 10 walks on the planet. That's my Tasmanian tourist spiel done for the month. On the cam lobe pitting issue, make sure your oil has a reasonable zinc content (don't worry about the CAT). No roller rockers in our K engines.
 
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All the valves are within specs. Now the not so good news. The #2 cam lobe of the #2 exhaust cylinder has 2 small pits. They are very minor so I'm just going to act like I didn't see them. Also, the lower rear valve cover screw is striped. Any suggestions on a preferred heli coil kit.
What is the history of the bike? Year, miles, time between oil changes, oil used, etc.

Pitting isn't a good thing and generally means the bike has sat idle for long periods, run too many miles between oil changes or used an oil of too low a viscosity and with too little anti wear additives such as Zinc (i.e., a modern auto oil, particularly of the "energy conserving" persuasion).

It may just be the lighting, but your cams seem to have a lot of varnish on them. Mine looked a lot cleaner at my last check which was at 27,000 miles. I run Castrol 4T 20W50 dino oil with changes every 6,000 or so.

As someone else suggested, I would keep a few close-up pictures and check it again in 12,000 miles or so.
 

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What is the history of the bike? Year, miles, time between oil changes, oil used, etc.

Pitting isn't a good thing and generally means the bike has sat idle for long periods, run too many miles between oil changes or used an oil of too low a viscosity and with too little anti wear additives such as Zinc (i.e., a modern auto oil, particularly of the "energy conserving" persuasion).

It may just be the lighting, but your cams seem to have a lot of varnish on them. Mine looked a lot cleaner at my last check which was at 27,000 miles. I run Castrol 4T 20W50 dino oil with changes every 6,000 or so.

As someone else suggested, I would keep a few close-up pictures and check it again in 12,000 miles or so.
I have to agree with Voyager on the varnish on the cams mine were a lot cleaner than that I also change mine about every 6,000
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
What is the history of the bike? Year, miles, time between oil changes, oil used, etc.

Pitting isn't a good thing and generally means the bike has sat idle for long periods, run too many miles between oil changes or used an oil of too low a viscosity and with too little anti wear additives such as Zinc (i.e., a modern auto oil, particularly of the "energy conserving" persuasion).

It may just be the lighting, but your cams seem to have a lot of varnish on them. Mine looked a lot cleaner at my last check which was at 27,000 miles. I run Castrol 4T 20W50 dino oil with changes every 6,000 or so.

Well Dennis and Voyager, it's possible the pitting problem is with the oil. There is no noticeable varnish on the cams, so it is the lighting

99' LT has 96,000 - I put the last 46,000 on but due to home projects I rode less than 3,000 this year . Oil gets changed every 3,000 but I switched from castrol 20/50 dino to mobil 15/50 syn because the engine was groaning during the 30 degree f startups. It starts much easier now but maybe I should return to dino oil. Then again, maybe not. The mobile syn container says it has extra zinc added
 

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What is the history of the bike? Year, miles, time between oil changes, oil used, etc.

Pitting isn't a good thing and generally means the bike has sat idle for long periods, run too many miles between oil changes or used an oil of too low a viscosity and with too little anti wear additives such as Zinc (i.e., a modern auto oil, particularly of the "energy conserving" persuasion).

It may just be the lighting, but your cams seem to have a lot of varnish on them. Mine looked a lot cleaner at my last check which was at 27,000 miles. I run Castrol 4T 20W50 dino oil with changes every 6,000 or so.

Well Dennis and Voyager, it's possible the pitting problem is with the oil. There is no noticeable varnish on the cams, so it is the lighting

99' LT has 96,000 - I put the last 46,000 on but due to home projects I rode less than 3,000 this year . Oil gets changed every 3,000 but I switched from castrol 20/50 dino to mobil 15/50 syn because the engine was groaning during the 30 degree f startups. It starts much easier now but maybe I should return to dino oil. Then again, maybe not. The mobile syn container says it has extra zinc added
I would not expect Mobil 1 to cause problems unless you let the bike sit long periods between rides. I am not sure how true this is, but I have read reports that suggest that the lower viscosity of synthetic oil at low temps allows it to drain off of internal engine parts faster than Dino oil exposing surfaces to moisture in the air during long idle periods.

I run Mobil 1 in all of my cars and trucks, but not my LT as I don't really need the cold start capability. I seldom ride at temps less than freezing and the bike starts fine on Dino oil at temps of 40 and above. Also, my rear main seal started leaking right after the dealer switched my bike to synthetic. And the leak stopped when I went back to dino oil, but not before contaminating my clutch. May just be a coincidence, but since I have no compelling need for synthetic, I have stuck with Castrol conventional oil.
 

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I have run Mobil 1 15/50 for the lat 80,000 miles and change it every 6K but don't worry about an oil change if my trips go a bit longer than 6K. It has the extra zinc and my cams look pristine. I find the LT sits a lot now that I have the GT but she still get s a long trip at least once a year. They could have been there from the get go and you never noticed?
 
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