BMW Luxury Touring Community banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So my 2016 R1200RT that I bought with 47K miles on it, came with previous owners maintenance records and the selling dealer pre-sale work done.

The valves are within spec and have not varied by more than .01mm in every 12k check.
Selling dealer changed final drive oil at 47k miles but that was in Dec 18.

I just tried to change the final drive oil but cannot get the drain plug out.

If I play the odds and never check the valves again, nor change the final drive oil, how long do you think I can go before catastrophic failure.

I use Shell 15W40 Synthetic oil, and Mahle filters.

I'm thinking it won't matter because I am running the PR5 tires (Non-GT).

This is not my cross country long haul bike, it is my run about and overnight trip bike.

Thanks
Greg
Kerrville TX
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
423 Posts
<snip>

I just tried to change the final drive oil but cannot get the drain plug out.

If I play the odds and never check the valves again, nor change the final drive oil, how long do you think I can go before catastrophic failure.

I use Shell 15W40 Synthetic oil, and Mahle filters.

I'm thinking it won't matter because I am running the PR5 tires (Non-GT).

This is not my cross country long haul bike, it is my run about and overnight trip bike.

Thanks
Greg
Kerrville TX
I think you need to figure out why that plug won't come out. Have you called the dealer that did the last change to see if they could unfreeze that plug? I had something similar once and my dealer took care of it (I cross-threaded one of the spark plug threads like an idiot) for about $50.

If you really don't care about the FD failing at some inopportune time (or have any consideration for the possible next owner) I guess you could just leave it be. Certainly not something I'd do but, you just do you as they say.

I don't understand what the items in red above have to do with anything. Tires certainly don't affect the FD or scheduled maintenance and why would you not be able to check the valves again (or is it that you just don't want to do any maintenance of any kind)?

I'll have to make a note to never buy a used RT owned by a guy in Kerrville, Tx...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Gregg:

First of all, congratulations on your new (to you) scoot. I hope you are as happy with it as I am with mine.

In answer to your question about how long will it go without checking the valves or changing the FD oil, the most probable answer is a very long time and many, many miles. The service intervals are set by the manufacturer to assure a near-infintesimally small risk of wear-out issues when followed. I expect the majority of shim-in-the-follower type cams go the life of the vehicle without requiring any adjustments. Thus ignoring the service intervals on these two items, while increasing the risk, does so in a gradual way.

That being said, I would second Pappy's question about what's your motivation for doing so. Is the dealer an impossibly long distance away? Is it just to save the $? Your bike = your choice.

By the way, about removing the final drive drain plug. I hope you're aware that, although the fill plug uses a 6 mm Allen wrench, the drain plug uses a T45 Torx. You would be far from the first run caught out by this. My personal opinion of BMW's choice to mix Allen and Torq bolts in such close proximity is not fit to be seen by those with a delicate constitution.

Like Pappy, i'm also lost and would love to hear what running PR5 non-GT tires has to do with the rest of the discussion. Not criticizing, jut wondering.

Good luck with your new bike!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,948 Posts
By the way, about removing the final drive drain plug. I hope you're aware that, although the fill plug uses a 6 mm Allen wrench, the drain plug uses a T45 Torx. You would be far from the first run caught out by this. My personal opinion of BMW's choice to mix Allen and Torq bolts in such close proximity is not fit to be seen by those with a delicate constitution.
Another very nasty part of this issue is that it is way too easy to cross-thread them because they are similar in diameter but with different thread pitches. I believe someone at the dealer may have inadvertently started to x-thread the drain hole then stopped quickly, fortunately. I began doing my own FD drain/fill after the 12K mile service and the first time I backed out the drain plug a segment of metal thread was dangling off the housing. Then, when I completed the draining and commenced to reinstall the drain plug I noticed it was very hard to turn. The drain plug threads were sterling. No way you could hand turn it after the threads engaged--VERY stiff. Fortunately each time since it's never culminated in any worsening of this and no leaking thankfully. When I mentioned it to the shop they told me it was probably the o-ring getting snagged into the threads but that is bologna as the turning force goes up way before the o-ring could possibly become entrained.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
423 Posts
Noel, your kind of scenario (wondering when something will finally cause a problem) is what I will dread EVERY time I change that lower right plug from now on. I had it towed to the dealer and, to their credit for not gouging me and my great relief, managed to chase the threads and install the plug (they charged me an hour of labor, that's it after I walked in there thinking I was going to need a new head!).

Assuming Wichita's dealer is reputable, I'd ride it over there and let them fix it (either for free for a small labor charge). No way I'd just forgo doing fluid changes until failure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
I would differently use 5-40 wt. BMW oil (there is a lot of oil out their)
I have used (Amsoil 10W-40 Synthetic Metric Motorcycle Oil & Liqui Moly MOTORBIKE 4T SYNTH 5W-40 STREET RACE)

Change the tyranny every time you change your motor oil.
That is the life blood of any motorcycle.

I think that most items except for motor oil can be double the service recommended intervals.
Just keep in mind that it is a two cylinder engine and not a four cylinder engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I misspoke above, I am using the 5W40 Rotella.

As for the crack about the tires, I just like to tickle controversy sometimes. I know this is a sore subject for some folks.

As a soldier I saw more damage done to vehicles, generators and delicate electronics by constant "Preventative Maintenance Checks and Services" commonly called PMCS. Everything from stripped threads to improperly installed heat shields and worn out parts.

If it aint broke, don't fix it. I would imagine that any break-in adjustment or change in valve train wear has already occurred. My old Yamaha had shims, and after the first service, never needed any more. I did buy the spark plug boot removal thingie and a small thin walled spark plug socket. One day I may get bored and check the valves, but not every 12 k miles.

I have ordered a nice new T45 as mine is a bit worn and I didn't want to try too hard to unscrew it. Fill plug came out fine with Allen wrench. My question was more if I did more damage trying to get it out then I would just ride it.

I know my original post was a little flippant, but I have been watching too much Fox News and MSNBC.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Change the tyranny every time you change your motor oil.
That is the life blood of any motorcycle.
Isn't it difficult to change the transmission? Don't you have have to completely disassemble the motorcycle?

ON my 2016 R1200RT the engine and transmission share the same lubricant.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,113 Posts
First, 47K is not high mileage for any BMW boxer.

The FD drain is always hard to turn out on my bikes and it was like that on the 15 RT and the 17.5 GS I have now.

You set yourself by not wanting or willing to do service to your bike. If you have the money to buy a throw away RT, I really am in a pretty bad way on a fixed income so I will wrench for food:wink:

As far as valves yes they tend not to wear but do you have any base line for numbers? And EVERYONE should want to look at their cams every 12K at least with the hardness issue that is going on with them. No ryme or reason or specific miles or years, just the lobes are there and then they are not.

Your bike keep and own it any way you like. However there is a maintenance schedule and it is there to keep the bike the way the manufacturer says will keep it running.

And the comment on full synth oil with testing they say I can go out to 7500 miles on the oil I use and the way my bike is wearing. So in this day and age no way would I push oil out to 12K! FD yeah 12K is fine but for the cost and time I do it every 6K oil change.

Yep you can treat her like the 100 dollar cars we used to buy in high school to run for 6 months or a year depending if it would pass inspection every 6 months here in PA at the time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
333 Posts
Maybe try an impact driver on the final drive plug. They usually loose up stuck plugs. I change my FD fluid at each rear tire change.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
As a soldier I saw more damage done to vehicles, generators and delicate electronics by constant "Preventative Maintenance Checks and Services" commonly called PMCS. Everything from stripped threads to improperly installed heat shields and worn out parts.

You're absolutely right; there is risk if you don't but also risk if you do. Hopefully knowledge and care will minimize the risk when you do.

I have ordered a nice new T45 as mine is a bit worn and I didn't want to try too hard to unscrew it. Fill plug came out fine with Allen wrench. My question was more if I did more damage trying to get it out then I would just ride it.
Good for you! I'd vote for trying the new T45 and perhaps judicious use of a heat gun all the while keeping in mind Hippocrates' advice to "do no harm".

Good luck!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,013 Posts
Good for you! I'd vote for trying the new T45 and perhaps judicious use of a heat gun all the while keeping in mind Hippocrates' advice to "do no harm".

Good luck!
Careful with the heat gun! The drain plug is sealed with a small rubber o-ring!
 
  • Like
Reactions: LAF

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Okay, nice new T45 and a small hammer, a hundred mile ride to warm up the housing, plug came loose with significant torque on the ratchet. Replace with about 6 oz of BMW GL4 from my local dealer. Came in a 7 oz bottle, he said put 6 oz in.

Not going to do the valves just yet....only been 6k miles or so since the dealer "said" they did it to make the bike ready to sell.

It's a really nice bike.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Good for you! Glad it worked out.

Now go and ride it and enjoy.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
100 Posts
I'm preparing to replace my final drive oil and read that I should replace the o-ring on the drain plug. Problem is, I can't find a spec for that o-ring. Heck, I can't even find the o-ring listed for sale. Sadly, my 2016 only has 13,000 miles on it (don't judge me,) so me thinks the current o-ring may be ok for this change, assuming a close inspection. How off base am I? About to put a couple thousand more miles along the shores of Lake Michigan and Lake Superior and don't want to have an o-ring cancel my trip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
277 Posts
I'm preparing to replace my final drive oil and read that I should replace the o-ring on the drain plug. Problem is, I can't find a spec for that o-ring. Heck, I can't even find the o-ring listed for sale. Sadly, my 2016 only has 13,000 miles on it (don't judge me,) so me thinks the current o-ring may be ok for this change, assuming a close inspection. How off base am I? About to put a couple thousand more miles along the shores of Lake Michigan and Lake Superior and don't want to have an o-ring cancel my trip.
Check out Beemerboneyard, they'll have what you need:

Final Drive Crush Washer/O-ring Set 4 Pack - All R1200 Liquid Cooled Bikes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,499 Posts
Unless it's damaged, this O-ring will last a long time. I never changed mine on my 07 and I sold the bike with 110,000 mi on it with no issue.
Should be the same with the Wetheads
The repair manual for my R1250RT mentions: "renew if necessary"
YMMV
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top