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note to 150... the '09 does not use shims for valve adjustment. That started with the 2010 year models.
Comment to the O.P. and others.
Tight valves at this number of miles is not totally unusual. There is obviously some variability in the way these engines "break-in" but many will take up to 18k miles.
As break-in occurs what is happening is that all the mechanical "interfaces" in the chain are "rubbing" against each other and "banging", and "pressing' and otherwise settling their positions getting ready for a long and happy life.
The net result of all these wear-in and changes is that the valves get tighter... until you or the dealers does the next valve adjustment... until the wear-in is complete. It is not at all true, but one way to think of this is that the valve stems are being stretched... until they are in their final length. This is like the valve springs are pulling against the valve stems trying to make them longer. This is why your valves were so tight.... the stems are growing longer.
You lessen the "tightness" by increasing the distance from the tappet to the top of the valve stem. This is why you do valve adjustments. You obviously needed it to be done on your bike.
Your "pickyness" in doing it is a good thing and will pay off for you. Congratulations.
Now... how does it run after the adjustment?
What you did not say was anything about setting the Throttle bodies so that they both allow the exact same amount of air/fuel mix on each stroke. If you change the opening distance of the valves on one side, the other side needs to be matched... thus the idea of throttle body synchronization.
Good job.
Comment to the O.P. and others.
Tight valves at this number of miles is not totally unusual. There is obviously some variability in the way these engines "break-in" but many will take up to 18k miles.
As break-in occurs what is happening is that all the mechanical "interfaces" in the chain are "rubbing" against each other and "banging", and "pressing' and otherwise settling their positions getting ready for a long and happy life.
The net result of all these wear-in and changes is that the valves get tighter... until you or the dealers does the next valve adjustment... until the wear-in is complete. It is not at all true, but one way to think of this is that the valve stems are being stretched... until they are in their final length. This is like the valve springs are pulling against the valve stems trying to make them longer. This is why your valves were so tight.... the stems are growing longer.
You lessen the "tightness" by increasing the distance from the tappet to the top of the valve stem. This is why you do valve adjustments. You obviously needed it to be done on your bike.
Your "pickyness" in doing it is a good thing and will pay off for you. Congratulations.
Now... how does it run after the adjustment?
What you did not say was anything about setting the Throttle bodies so that they both allow the exact same amount of air/fuel mix on each stroke. If you change the opening distance of the valves on one side, the other side needs to be matched... thus the idea of throttle body synchronization.
Good job.
