[Rethy]

Okay I had the same problem when I did the 12K service. Everything is easy EXCEPT!!! Relieving pressure on the timing chain. Gunsmoke directions indicate using a screwdriver to compress. Mine barely moves and I am butchering the aluminum part of the tensioner. I have tried turning engine over to relieve pressure from the pump as described but makes no difference. No. 30 drill bit is .128--a .125 drill bit is what I am trying to use. I suspect there is an easier way to compress the tensioner. I am puting enough pressure to lower the tensioner with a large screwdriver that any more may break something. I have been using the cast around the bolt for extra tension for leverage but does not appear effective. In my description, can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?--------Thanks, Rethy

 

[lovetomotor]

Okay I had the same problem when I did the 12K service. Everything is easy EXCEPT!!! Relieving pressure on the timing chain. Gunsmoke directions indicate using a screwdriver to compress. Mine barely moves and I am butchering the aluminum part of the tensioner. I have tried turning engine over to relieve pressure from the pump as described but makes no difference. No. 30 drill bit is .128--a .125 drill bit is what I am trying to use. I suspect there is an easier way to compress the tensioner. I am puting enough pressure to lower the tensioner with a large screwdriver that any more may break something. I have been using the cast around the bolt for extra tension for leverage but does not appear effective. In my description, can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?--------Thanks, Rethy

You need to put pressure on the drill bit and be patient as the pressure bleeds off. It's a little bit intimidating, but it will work.

 

[johnrehder]

had the same problem

I had to turn the engine over (with the oil filter removed and no oil) a bunch of revolutions then let it sit for awhile (hours) for the excess oil behind the tensioner to drain. I was in no hurry so I took a couple of days repeating this process. I was finally able to compress the tensioner enough to slide the drill bit in. It was a pain no less but once you get the drill bit in the cam removal was easy. don't forget to tie off the cam to the gear wheel with tie wraps. good luck

Okay I had the same problem when I did the 12K service. Everything is easy EXCEPT!!! Relieving pressure on the timing chain. Gunsmoke directions indicate using a screwdriver to compress. Mine barely moves and I am butchering the aluminum part of the tensioner. I have tried turning engine over to relieve pressure from the pump as described but makes no difference. No. 30 drill bit is .128--a .125 drill bit is what I am trying to use. I suspect there is an easier way to compress the tensioner. I am puting enough pressure to lower the tensioner with a large screwdriver that any more may break something. I have been using the cast around the bolt for extra tension for leverage but does not appear effective. In my description, can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?--------Thanks, Rethy

 

[Rethy]

This design must be a joke right?

I have drained the oil, turned motor over at least 50 revolutions and still can only move tensioner about a quarter inch. Why did they not put a bleed port on the tensioner. These German engineers could sure use a lesson from All other manufacturers in this design. The tensioner locks up after a quarter inch movement. Waiting a couple days for it to bleed down sounds ridiculous to me. My patience is being tested as this is the most aggravating repair I have done on the 49 motorcycles owned to date. The valve adjustment is a walk in the park, but this tensioner BS is kicking my ass. Surely someone has come up with a better method to compress the tensioner without waiting for days. Someone in the know-enlighten me.---------Rethy

 

[dshealey]

I have drained the oil, turned motor over at least 50 revolutions and still can only move tensioner about a quarter inch. Why did they not put a bleed port on the tensioner. These German engineers could sure use a lesson from All other manufacturers in this design. The tensioner locks up after a quarter inch movement. Waiting a couple days for it to bleed down sounds ridiculous to me. My patience is being tested as this is the most aggravating repair I have done on the 49 motorcycles owned to date. The valve adjustment is a walk in the park, but this tensioner BS is kicking my ass. Surely someone has come up with a better method to compress the tensioner without waiting for days. Someone in the know-enlighten me.---------Rethy

I do not know what is wrong with yours. I have done several different bikes, mine several times, and never had any problem at all getting the tensioner pressed down enough for the retaining pin to insert. It does not move fast, as there is a pretty small bleed hole in the cylinder, and you have to press it long enough to force the oil out of the cylinder through the small bleed hole. It normally does not take a lot of movement, unless your chain is stretched a lot. 1/4" of movement at the end of the tensioner rail is pretty normal, so if you are not getting the pin to insert something must be strange. A 1/8" pin is just fine, the diameter is not all that important. The BMW tool is 3MM, which is .118", a 1/8" pin (what I used) is .125"

 

[dshealey]

I have drained the oil, turned motor over at least 50 revolutions and still can only move tensioner about a quarter inch. Why did they not put a bleed port on the tensioner. -------------

There is no need to turn the engine over, and there IS a small bleed hole in the cylinder. It allows air to be forced out when the engine is running so that the tensioner is held solid, with no air bubbles to make is springy. When you push down on the tensioner rail, the oil is slowly forced out through this hole. It normally takes holding tension on the screwdriver for 15 seconds or so to get full movement.

 

[murray]

It could be you reduced the tension and the tensioning rail dropped below the hole . Can you lift and drop the rail ?
If so your in..