[Rethy]

I finally got the cam followers from Chicago BMW. As I suspected I was not successful in pinning the chain tensioner and am finding it more difficult than expected. I can push the tensioner pretty far down with screwdriver but cannot get it to stay. What size is a #30 drill bit? I have been trying allen wrenches down to less than 1/8 and cannot get any to start. Maybe too much oil still in it. I cannot spin the motor over now that cam sprockets are off to remove excess oil. Any ideas? -------Rethy

 

[zippy_gg]

I found the info in the Clymer manual, page 84.
"The smooth end of a 1/8 in. drill bit or similar sized drift or rod can be substituted".
I hope this helps!

 

[Rethy]

Loosing faith in BMW engineers

I now have 2 separate 1 hour attempts at locating the groove on the tensioner. Went over instructions and wonder if the groove was never machined, I can push the tensioner pretty far but nowhere can a drill bit be used to hold it. Just comes right back up. Very frustrating and appears to be a poor design as I have been pushing on it enough times the nylon is getting marred. What is the procedure to remove the tensioner so I can inspect it?

 

[zippy_gg]

Rethy, it might help if you filled out your profile as there may be some local members who could come to the rescue.
Not sure if you checked out the gunsmoke site http://gunsmoke.com/motorcycling/k1200rs/valves/index.html
Also the Clymer BMW K1200RS, GT & LT 1998-2005 manual would be of value to you.
Another great source of information is David Shealey on this site. You may want to send him a PM if he doesn't chime in.

 

[CharlieVT]

Try a smaller diameter drill

I now have 2 separate 1 hour attempts at locating the groove on the tensioner. Went over instructions and wonder if the groove was never machined, I can push the tensioner pretty far but nowhere can a drill bit be used to hold it. Just comes right back up. Very frustrating and appears to be a poor design as I have been pushing on it enough times the nylon is getting marred. What is the procedure to remove the tensioner so I can inspect it?

You may be using a drill bit that is slightly too big in diameter. Try a smaller one.

 

[dshealey]

I now have 2 separate 1 hour attempts at locating the groove on the tensioner. Went over instructions and wonder if the groove was never machined, I can push the tensioner pretty far but nowhere can a drill bit be used to hold it. Just comes right back up. Very frustrating and appears to be a poor design as I have been pushing on it enough times the nylon is getting marred. What is the procedure to remove the tensioner so I can inspect it?

This sounds really strange. Normally, one only has to push the tensioner down about 1/4" to allow the holding tool to pass the groove in the piston. Only if the chain has stretched abnormally should more be necessary.

I made my tool from 1/8" stainless steel rod I had around. Look at the attached picture, and you can see the dimension of the straight part past the curve of the handle. When the handle touches the front of the timing cover, it is in far enough.

 

[Morley]

You said you had a #30 drill bit, a #30 is .129" and a 1/8 is .125". maybe that extra .004 is your problem.

 

[donsobeck]

When I did my valves I thought I had the pin in (not). so the tensioner was not latched. So I could not get the chain on the gears. I had to push the tensioner down at less 1 1/2 to 2in to get the pin to go in and lock

DON.

 

[Rethy]

Thanks for the replies

I finally got the pin in. I had to push the tensioner down at least 1.5-2 inches. That was the only way I could get enough slack in the chain. Good Grief I am glad its done. The bike is once again among the living. Thanks to all-----Rethy