[Razmataz]

I week ago Saturday I finished flushing the brakes again. (thanks JohnZ for the writeup)
Did a valve check, pulled cams, swapped buckets around. Ended up buying six new ones. Put back together, torqued, final check, everything good. Went for a 115 mile ride, and during ran it through the gears a few times with RPM's up around 7300. Ran great, maybe even better than when I got it four years ago. Sunday. Wife's first ride of the year, we take off and get about five miles from the house, running about 65, when all of a sudden it was like all the valves fluttered and the engine died. It won't restart and sounds totally different than it ever has. Called nephew who has trailer & we get it back home. I finally get around to checking it today hoping for the best. Oh, I forgot to mention that on the final torque of the exhaust cam it slipped, just like a previous post from NCrider. I go get a new bolt that is 10mm longer and put in there and it torqued and held.
Upon taking the valve cover off everything looks good until I put it in gear and start rotating the motor. Evidently the keyway (pin) on the exhaust sprocket is sheared, as the sprocket turns, but the exhaust cam doesn't. Is that pin replaceable on the sprocket, or does it take a new sprocket. Where do I go from here? And what would you say I did wrong in the first place to cause this. I'm thinking that maybe I didn't get that pin properly seated on the cam before torquing it down, but it sure ran great for one day.

 

[JPSpen]

I think that pin pushes in....You might be able to get it back out...Take that sprocket back off and see what's what...

If the cam didn't slip too far you're probably ok... Otherwise it's a head job..

John

 

[New2rt]

Sorry to hear this but I would think several of the exhaust valves are toast.
There are a couple ways to check for bent valves, visually look at the bucket height with the cam removed, pull plugs and do a leak down test, bore scope.

Looks like you'll be pulling the head, hopefully no piston or rod damage.

Best of luck and I hope I'm wrong.

 

[dshealey]

The pin is pressed into the end of the cam, would likely be a machine shop job to replace it. If it is sheared off, it will be flush with the end of the cam, and no way to get it out without machining it out.

Sounds like something was not lined up right when you torqued the cam sprocket bolt back, or the bolt was not torqued correctly and the sprocket sheared the pin. The pin is really just for timing alignment, cannot withstand torque of the cam at running speeds, so if the bolt was not tight enough, the pin can shear.

If the cam stops turning with the engine running, likely valve and piston damage at best. You may be looking for a used head or engine.

Hoping you find better news when you go into it!

 

[jzeiler]

I think Saddleman has a head all re-worked and I have the cams for it if it comes down to that. Hope there is no piston damage.

 

[deputy5211]

Re: Valve adjustment fail - Community Engine Project Idea

I have a spare engine that probably needs a good going through. I have seen several engine threads and got me thinking that maybe we could do a community engine swap like some folks have done with FDs. I will donate the engine, maybe one or more someones can donate labor, and whoever ends up needing it pays for the parts used in rebuild plus shipping costs to get engine to them, and donates their old engine back into the pool for a rework. Perhaps the recipient also makes a nice charitable donation to that year's CCR charity based on the money they saved and their ability to do so. Has to be cheaper than having a dealer do it, faster, too, and the CCR charity wins as well.

Is this too pie in the sky?

 

[Razmataz]

Ugh! So this is much worse than I had hoped for. So, I guess I'll pull the head. I didn't hear any breaking, grinding, banging, of any kind. Just fluttered and died. Now I am getting in over my head. Thanks for the advice fellas.

 

[deputy5211]

Good luck and please, keep up posted. I do not envy you at all.

 

[saddleman]

I think Saddleman has a head all re-worked and I have the cams for it if it comes down to that. Hope there is no piston damage.

I have not had the head rebuilt yet. The only shop I was comfortable with the shop foreman left. I'm going to another shop wed. after work.

 

[ErnieA]

I have two heads ready for rebuild and cams if needed. I can get one done in a few days if needed. I know I'm clear on the other side of the country from you but let me know if I can help.

 

[gary45]

it might be worth it to take off the valve cover and see what failed and if a cam did stop rotating/get out of correct time and you have bent valves it will be easy to tell because you will have really big tappet clearance like a quarter inch instead of a few thou - also check cost of headgasket, head bolts and possible bent valves, machine shop charge before you repair instead of getting a used motor
just my 2 cents worth

 

[Razmataz]

I finally got the bike on the lift a couple of days ago with the neighbors help. Just for grins I put the wrench on the exhaust cam & the torque wrench on the cam bolt, and it did move slightly before the torques wrench clicked. And as Gary pointed out in the above post, I believe there is at least one valve that has the 1/4 inch space in it, so at least probably one valve bent. I'm currently trying to track down the bmw tech who worked at the dealership in Savoy before it shut down. He lives about 25 miles from me but I don't have his phone # or address yet. The guy at the local dealer here mentioned that I might want to tap new threads and put a different bolt in there when I went in to get another or longer bolt which they didn't have. That didn't sound very good to me since I'm just a shade tree mechanic with all the leaves off the tree. I'm still in kind of a daze that this happened. If it ruined the pistons I'll probably just part out the bike. Sure would hate too, because I love riding that thing....

 

[deputy5211]

If you want to keep the bike...

Before you part out the bike, I have an engine that ran ok but needs a little work. I think the chain tensioner needs replacing and a new valve cover, both of which you may be able to take from your existing engine.

PM me to work out the details if you are interested.

 

[jzeiler]

I agree with Tony. An engine change is not that bad a task and it is always better to save an otherwise good LT!! If you want to bring it down here it wouldn't be the first one I have done.

 

[Razmataz]

I agree with Tony. An engine change is not that bad a task and it is always better to save an otherwise good LT!! If you want to bring it down here it wouldn't be the first one I have done.

Somehow I missed this post. Thanks John for the offer. I do have the BMW tech at the old dealership here working on my bike. He can only get to it part time since has another job, so its slow, but at least he's somebody I have some confidence in.
I considered a used motor (around $1000), then have to do the top end check, etc. Maybe should have gone that way, since now I'm looking at a parts list of around $2,100. (OEM prices, no discounts) Moot point now, as we're into it.
Summary as I understand it: All eight exhaust valves bent. Two pistons dinged. Pulled the one hit hardest & inspected (ok). Exhaust cam ruined. Sheared alignment pin off which in turn messed that area up. Will need new sprockets chain,etc. He has suggested trying to find a used exhaust cam since a new one lists at $528.26! (YIKES)
Does anyone have a used one that they would be willing to part with for a 2002 LT without me feeling I've been bunga bunga'd? Sorry, old joke. The valves are $114 a piece, but I'm supposing that those should be new.
Anyway, misery loves company. I just got through reading Patterson's post & others about being a dumbass & it brought a few smiles to my face. So far this year I may be on top of that list. Sometimes you gotta laugh to keep from crying. I'm going to fix this bike, and I'm gonna ride it. That BMW whine & open air is therapy for me....

 

[DanMartin]

Somehow I missed this post. Thanks John for the offer. I do have the BMW tech at the old dealership here working on my bike. He can only get to it part time since has another job, so its slow, but at least he's somebody I have some confidence in.
I considered a used motor (around $1000), then have to do the top end check, etc. Maybe should have gone that way, since now I'm looking at a parts list of around $2,100. (OEM prices, no discounts) Moot point now, as we're into it.
Summary as I understand it: All eight exhaust valves bent. Two pistons dinged. Pulled the one hit hardest & inspected (ok). Exhaust cam ruined. Sheared alignment pin off which in turn messed that area up. Will need new sprockets chain,etc. He has suggested trying to find a used exhaust cam since a new one lists at $528.26! (YIKES)
Does anyone have a used one that they would be willing to part with for a 2002 LT without me feeling I've been bunga bunga'd? Sorry, old joke. The valves are $114 a piece, but I'm supposing that those should be new.
Anyway, misery loves company. I just got through reading Patterson's post & others about being a dumbass & it brought a few smiles to my face. So far this year I may be on top of that list. Sometimes you gotta laugh to keep from crying. I'm going to fix this bike, and I'm gonna ride it. That BMW whine & open air is therapy for me....

I have a complete head with cams but no buckets for an '03. Not sure about sprockets.
Will try to find it tonight and look it over,post pics later.

dan

 

[1dbweldor]

I have an engine with about 5500 miles if you need it. The tranny and clutch is still bolted to it if you want it that way. I ran the engine in my bike for 500 miles to see what I have when I first bought it. When I pulled the engine to store it I closed it up after preserving it.
Let me know if you want it.

 

[New2rt]

The valves are in the head at an angle, when they get wacked by a piston they can/will also damage the guide. Depending on the ding in the piston that can also have a ripple effect.
You were given several responses regarding engines and cylinder heads. That might be the better way to go.

.02

 

[Voyager]

The valves are in the head at an angle, when they get wacked by a piston they can/will also damage the guide. Depending on the ding in the piston that can also have a ripple effect.
You were given several responses regarding engines and cylinder heads. That might be the better way to go.

.02

+1. A head swap is probably much less expensive.

 

[1dbweldor]

He will need more than just a head. In order to damage the valves you have pistons doing the damage. Not to mention possible damage to the block.