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After owning this bike for a year, I found the stock setup extremely lacking in the ergonomics. Granted, I've had 3 surgeries on my left knee and 2 on the right, but the leg locked position of the stock pegs is asinine. So, since I am locked in a motolease contract for at least another two years, I decided to make the bike something that fits my iron butt riding style. Added the Cee Bailey windshield, Darius floorboards, mickopegs and a Corbin seat. You would think that for a bike BMW touted as the "flagship" touring bike, it wouldn't take thousands of dollars to make it a comfortable cross country bike...or a bike that can be ridden more than 200 miles at a time without a need to take a Lortab afterwards.

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I put an RDL seat on my LT and did a ride-in appointment on my GTLE, and never need to stop except for gas/food. Dialing in the correct seating position is key to comfort. RDL requires you to send pictures of you sitting in a riding position as well as at rest with your feet on the ground (unless you do the ride-in appointment). They then build the seat to create the optimal riding position. Until I got the RDL on both bikes, I thought I needed J-Pegs on the LT and riding pegs and a different windshield on the GTLE. Not so, after the seat build...
 

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After owning this bike for a year, I found the stock setup extremely lacking in the ergonomics. Granted, I've had 3 surgeries on my left knee and 2 on the right, but the leg locked position of the stock pegs is asinine. So, since I am locked in a motolease contract for at least another two years, I decided to make the bike something that fits my iron butt riding style. Added the Cee Bailey windshield, Darius floorboards, mickopegs and a Corbin seat. You would think that for a bike BMW touted as the "flagship" touring bike, it wouldn't take thousands of dollars to make it a comfortable cross country bike...or a bike that can be ridden more than 200 miles at a time without a need to take a Lortab afterwards.

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I'm 6', 32" inseam and 230 lbs and find the stock ergonomics very good. My only addition to dat is a bead rider. The upright seating position allows me to have the weight of my legs on the pegs rather than on my tailbone as with the cruisers.

I can easily ride 500 mile days. I considered highway pegs, but after a few long rides decided they were unnecessary. Thankfully, my stock 57 year old knees are hanging in there.
:smile:
 

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How do the floorboards effect getting your feet down at a stop? It would seem troublesome to me, but I have not seen a set of those boards. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The floorboards along with the lo-pro Corbin seat make stopping a non issue. Even with the stock seat, getting around the floorboards wasn't an issue. I'm 5' 11" 180lbs, 34" inseam. For anyone debating the Darius floorboards, go with the folding style. I have the solid and I find it way too easy to touch them in corners. Having solid floorboards hit the pavement in a turn is quite unnerving.

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The floorboards along with the lo-pro Corbin seat make stopping a non issue. Even with the stock seat, getting around the floorboards wasn't an issue. I'm 5' 11" 180lbs, 34" inseam. For anyone debating the Darius floorboards, go with the folding style. I have the solid and I find it way too easy to touch them in corners. Having solid floorboards hit the pavement in a turn is quite unnerving.

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Unlike me, I hope you don't drop the LT, solid floor boards when they hit the ground snap off the eyelets on the side plate on either side it falls, no option but to buy another side plate, I still use mine I love them but it has cost me a few dollars in side plates.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I hit something on the highway that broke the top eyelet and bent the retaining pin. I wound up putting a zinc bolt and nut in place to hold me over and complete Run For The Wall. A few days later, I was tying crap down and pulled the bike off the center stand and dropped it on the same side. It wound up snapping the zinc bolt. I'm thinking I may buy another set and keep those for when I swap back to pegs (when I sell/trade in). Cut the other top off and put a bolt in so it snaps the bolt instead of breaking a $250 part...

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All I have done is to add a Bill Mayer seat and a Bakup backrest and I can do an iron butt with no pain in butt, legs or knees . . .I think it was a combination of the seat and back rest that solved my issues as I have had L5 nerve issues.



I've been lucky in the knee area - tried jpegs and side boards - did not really help. Once I got the seat and wore it in sold the other stuff as it was not needed - - one last thing - on long rides I wear a Back-A-Line :D
 

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".................for when I swap back to pegs (when I sell/trade in). "

Travis, I agree with you on the factory ergonomics - I have a Corbin with backrest, the Cee Bailey Sport shield as well; and shop made foot pegs, mounted on the wings. I can do some long days in the saddle, especially with cruise control. FYI, when you decide to sell/trade in, get ready to take a beating on price, unless you got yours for a steal. The newer bikes ('05 and up) tend to bring a decent price, but after adding a bunch of farkles, you'll never get the investment back. I bought my 99 about 3 years ago, and can't get half what I have in it, even from a Beemer dealer ! It only has 39k mileage, and they offered me less than 3k on trade :( So, i'll just keep buying stuff for it and try not to scrape my pegs in those corners :)
 

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In 2013 I did a long trip from Vancouver, BC Canada (Seattle, WA area) to San Francisco to Vegas to Death Valley to Hoover Dam to Grand Canyon to Moab and back home.

I've got the J-pegs, stock seat, slightly smaller windshield (replaced that with 26" much taller one now).

Anyhow, I found stock foot pegs seating position the most comfortable. Sure I like to use J-pegs on the highway on occasion but no good for a long time, I always revert back to stock seating position.

I'm 6'1" 200lbs.
 
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