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Hello all. Now that I have the 2001LT running, I was wondering what upgrades are an immediate must and which ones could wait considering that there is only 8061 miles on the bike since new? Thanks in advance for your input. Mike.
 

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Hello all. Now that I have the 2001LT running, I was wondering what upgrades are an immediate must and which ones could wait considering that there is only 8061 miles on the bike since new? Thanks in advance for your input. Mike.
It isn't the mileage so much as the age. The brake lines are very likely looking good but inside they have deteriorated badly and are now a safety hazard to you and anyone in your path. The rubber lines inside the fuel tank are also probably badly in need of replacement and if you have quick disconnects on the fuel tank, they are likely plastic and another weak link that can strand you or cause a fire and also should be replaced.

You are too late to the game to get the FIBIB ( Fix It Before It Breaks) or replacement top case latch kits so use it with care. Always push down on the top of the case when opening and closing. It is a poor design made of pot metal and all the force is transferred to the top left and right corners and they will snap off if too much force is required to open and close and there is no replacement latch, only a replacement case. Make sure nothing is on the sealing surface between top and bottom to make it harder to close. Many have actually taken a dremel to the latches on the bottom side and removed some metal to make it easier to close with less force.

You may want to upgrade the headlight bulbs. HID for the low beam is a good choice and LED as long as you don't get one that is unbearable to onlookers. They are hard to find but 2500 to 3000 lumens is all you need to make a huge difference. HID for high beams can be troublesome. They take enough time to brighten up that you may not get the light you need when you need it most. LED for the high beam is a fitment issue as the bulb is deeply recessed and nothing will actually fit the LT without modifications and specific type bulbs. Nothing is a direct fit. Putting higher watt halogen bulbs in might seem like an option but the wiring is not stout enough to handle a 100W bulb over the standard 55W and the wires will melt so choose your lighting with care.

The bike has no CAN bus so adding things will not cause that type of trouble and it has a large alternator so you can load it up pretty well and not have voltage issues. Using relays is generally the best way to go running good larger gauge wire for add-ons.

Good luck and farkle up.
 

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  1. Change all fluids out
  2. If your tires are more than ~5 years old they should be replaced regardless of tread. Tires do get stale. the date stamp is on the sidewall, generally in an oval with 4 numbers = the first two are the week of the year the tire was produced, the second two are the year: 0202 would be made the second week of January 2002. I had a buddy go down on old tires a few weeks ago - not worth messing with old tires.
  3. Brake lines (and flush ASAP if you didn't already, do the clutch too)
  4. In tank fuel lines and filter - Search "Stainless U-bend" for some suggestions.
  5. Headlight upgrade is a very good one (LED is the way to go IMHO)

Ride it!! The advice on the trunk is also very good. I have a broken latch on mine.
 

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  1. Change all fluids out
  2. If your tires are more than ~5 years old they should be replaced regardless of tread. Tires do get stale. the date stamp is on the sidewall, generally in an oval with 4 numbers = the first two are the week of the year the tire was produced, the second two are the year: 0202 would be made the second week of January 2002. I had a buddy go down on old tires a few weeks ago - not worth messing with old tires.
  3. Brake lines (and flush ASAP if you didn't already, do the clutch too)
  4. In tank fuel lines and filter - Search "Stainless U-bend" for some suggestions.
  5. Headlight upgrade is a very good one (LED is the way to go IMHO)

Ride it!! The advice on the trunk is also very good. I have a broken latch on mine.
Tire age matters, but I would not retire a tire based on age alone. A 5 year old tire that sat outside in the sun all day is in a lot worse shape than a 5 year old tire that was on a bike stored in a garage. I have not had a tire on the LT that lasted 5 years as I ride a fair bit more now than I did when I was younger with kids and a career. However, I have run a couple of tires up to close to 8 years on past bikes with no problem. However, these tires were kept inside and saw very little sun or excess ozone. The key is to inspect the tires often looking for hardening of the rubber or cracking of the rubber.
 
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Tire age matters, but I would not retire a tire based on age alone. A 5 year old tire that sat outside in the sun all day is in a lot worse shape than a 5 year old tire that was on a bike stored in a garage. I have not had a tire on the LT that lasted 5 years as I ride a fair bit more now than I did when I was younger with kids and a career. However, I have run a couple of tires up to close to 8 years on past bikes with no problem. However, these tires were kept inside and saw very little sun or excess ozone. The key is to inspect the tires often looking for hardening of the rubber or cracking of the rubber.
I agree that tires can last longer then 5 years. However the original poster recently acquired the motorcycle so care of tires is a significant unknown. Not all damage is visible, certainly cracking is a sign of going way past the safe point. As I write this in my garage I'm sitting next to an airhead with a rear Dunlop 491 from 0601 with no visible cracking or hardening (it will be replaced as the restoration reaches conclusion). Questionable tires are not a variable I'd be willing to trust.

New tires are sure to inspire confidence in traction on a new to the rider motorcycle. We only ride on 2 wheels - make the most of them. YMMV.
 

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I advise you to do a pre-emptive replacement of the clutch slave cylinder. It is old, and prone to failure. If it fails you get to replace the entire clutch assembly. Ask me how I know! You cad do the weep hole drilling job at the same time.
 

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Many thanks to all who replied. I have read about the final drive issues. When would be a good mileage to address this? Mike.
It depends on how cautious you are. If you are super cautious, then just do it as soon as it is convenient to have the downtime. Then you don’t have to worry about it.

If you are like me, you wait until there is an indication of trouble. In my case, the pinion seal started leaking so I just had the whole drive rebuilt since I had to take the downtime to remove it and ship it away. If you aren’t the super cautious type, I would just change the final drive fluid every 6K or so and check the magnet for debris. And, obviously, check periodically for oil leaks and any play in the rear wheel. If no leaks, no play and a clean magnet at each oil change, I would keep running it. Remember, not all were bad by any stretch. So, if you got a good one, it should last nearly indefinitely.
 
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