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Discussion Starter #1
I have been towing a Unigo for 5 years and thought I would replace the bearings plus when I rotated the wheel I hear a growl. Called Unigo several times
no answer . . . grrrr!

I have the bearings but looking for some one who has actually done this before me. The attached sketch shows the hub, bearing and spacer.
What I am not sure of is how to push the bearing out.

So there are two possibilities:

1. The hub on the left shows there are 2 bores and you need to either pull the bearings out or knock the spacer out of the way and push a bearing
out by placing a driver thru the bearing on the other side.

2. The hub on the right shows a straight bore and possibly you push both bearings and the spacer to get the one bearing out and then push the other
bearing out from the other side.



Oh yea I did hear they use Green Loctitie - so I assume a little heat would help reduce the stresses on the hub when removing the bearing

Looking for suggestions or enlightenment or experience !!!
 

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Not having a Unigo trailer but from what you have drawn, I would suggest that the first drawing is what would be used. You don't show what is on the outside to retain the bearing. But mechanically that is how I would suggest that the bearings are held in alignment in the hub.
A little heat from heat gun & a tap using a long rod onto the inner race should start the bearing extraction or the better option is if you have access to a bearing puller.

dfinazzo said:
I have been towing a Unigo for 5 years and thought I would replace the bearings plus when I rotated the wheel I hear a growl. Called Unigo several times
no answer . . . grrrr!

I have the bearings but looking for some one who has actually done this before me. The attached sketch shows the hub, bearing and spacer.
What I am not sure of is how to push the bearing out.

So there are two possibilities:

1. The hub on the left shows there are 2 bores and you need to either pull the bearings out or knock the spacer out of the way and push a bearing
out by placing a driver thru the bearing on the other side.

2. The hub on the right shows a straight bore and possibly you push both bearings and the spacer to get the one bearing out and then push the other
bearing out from the other side.



Oh yea I did hear they use Green Loctitie - so I assume a little heat would help reduce the stresses on the hub when removing the bearing

Looking for suggestions or enlightenment or experience !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would agree the the one on the left would provide the better design

I have added to the sketch how the hub and bearings interface with the swing arms.

Thanks for the comments - looking for someone that knows!!

 

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Just take a long Drift punch and tap the bearing out (either side), the spacer (which is loose) should give enough to get to the inside race. If want to heat them it won’t hurt but most likely is not needed.. You have the correct number so you should be good.
 

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I have a Uni-go also (original New Zealand built editiion) and the previous owner had repolaced the bearings, saying they are a weak spot on Uni-go's. Not sure how he did it, but there are lots of Uni-go owners here:

http://gl1800riders.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=29

Also, Uni-go just moved its factory to Florida and is difficult to contact them directly. I have dealt with the following dealer for parts with good success:


Unigo Texas Plus
Bill Jennings
705 Cleve Cole Rd.
Denison, TX 75021

Phone: toll free 877-563-6716

Local: 903-463-6716
E-mail: [email protected]
Web site: www.uni-go-trailers.com
 

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Discussion Starter #6
REM,

Tell me about it Unigo was just 45 minutes away now the assembly is in Jacksonville, FL.

I know the owner and for him he has a full time job elsewhere - selling Unigo's is not his No, 1 priority. He has also had
some very unfortunate experiences and making money and managing the business has been very difficult. Unfortunately
for the past 5 to 6 years their service has been lacking to say the least.

Looks like people that know what the bore look like are not around to answer the question - I will give it some time.

Thanks for your feedback!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Questioned answered - from the earlier post on this thread - the picture on the left wins

Slipped the spacer to the side, placed a drift down the hole and the 1st bearing popped right out.



Over and out . . . :cool:
 

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The other Right. :)

dfinazzo said:
Questioned answered - from the earlier post on this thread - the picture on the right wins

Slipped the spacer to the side, placed a drift down the hole and the 1st bearing popped right out.



Over and out . . . :cool:
 

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Thanks -- that info will be helpful next time I replace the bearings in mine. I tow it much of the time as it does not affect handling and performance in any noticeable way (except when backing up ;) ) Racking up lots of miles on it.

In addition to the items you noted about the Ohio factory/owner, I also heard there was a fire, further screwing up communications.

I had broken a taiilight lens (my own stupid fault) and called Bill Jennings at the Texas dealership. He was able to get me one at a decent price. He seems to have some pull with the factory.

My early build trailer came with a flimsy frame, which was improved in later models. Fortunately, the previous owner is an expert welder and reinforced the frame. He also strengthened the hitch to remove flex. I attached a couple photos below showing what he did.
 

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Just take a long Drift punch and tap the bearing out (either side), the spacer (which is loose) should give enough to get to the inside race. If want to heat them it won’t hurt but most likely is not needed.. You have the correct number so you should be good.
I was able to use a screwdriver to push the spacer off to the side, then put a long, heavy, flat-bladed screwdriver and pop the bearing out. I had the wheel up on 2 parallel pieces of 2x4 so that there was room for it to pop out. Turned it over and popped the other one out.

Well, maybe popped is the wrong word, I had to beat them into submission.

Installing was even easier, used a piece of 4x4 over the bearing and pressed it in.

New tire, new bearings, new wiring. All ready for California and the PCH next week!
 
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