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Discussion Starter #1
Completed the rebuild of a New Zealand model Uni-go I acquired recently. Replaced the u-joint, bearings and color matched it to my LT. I also had the front "rhino coated" to help protect it from road rash. I am pretty happy with the transformation.

The best part was taking it out for a ride today to see how it handled. My first impression was: It felt strange not being able to see it once under way. I had my wife look back a few times just to make sure it was still attached. Don’t know if it’s because of the recent cam gear upgrade, along with the Remus exhaust system I already had, but I felt absolutely no difference in power availability, suspension (Ohlins) or how the LT handled in general. The trailer only had about thirty pounds of weight in it, just to keep it from bouncing around. But I cannot imagine that even if we double that weight it would change the positive results we saw today.

It will make our upcoming west coast trip a real pleasure. We plan on just putting what we normally carry in the top case, top case rack bag and side cases in the Uni-go. Freeing up those spaces just for our helmets while stopped and day needs: camera, water etc. Plus we will no longer need our top case bag we normally would carry. It just added weight to an already top heavy motorcycle.

When we stopped for gas, and at a restaurant for lunch, we were approached by individuals who had never seen a single wheel motorcycle trailer. We were questioned at length on where they could get one, how much it cost and how did it handle on the road. We will definitely be keeping it in our room when stopped for the night. I am also replacing the lock pins that hold my Dauntless hitch on, along with the trailer, with pad locks.

May we never find the end of the road!

Perry Ridgway

oknplm
 

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Looks great!

My '05 LT is the same color as yours, and I am getting ready to do the same for my NZ Unigo.

Where did you find the matching gold paint, and which U-Joint did you use?

Thanks!
 

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Well done.

I like the Rhino liner on the leading surface of the trailer. I think that would provide much more protection than the plastic film pieces they put on them now. The optional "bra" has its own issues, too -- it can scratch the paint, has to be taken off to wash the trailer, etc. A permanent coating is the way to go. I may take my Uni-go to a local Rhino Liner shop. Thanks for the idea!
 

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hschisler said:
Well done.

I like the Rhino liner on the leading surface of the trailer. I think that would provide much more protection than the plastic film pieces they put on them now. The optional "bra" has its own issues, too -- it can scratch the paint, has to be taken off to wash the trailer, etc. A permanent coating is the way to go. I may take my Uni-go to a local Rhino Liner shop. Thanks for the idea!
Or, save yourself a few bucks and do it yourself. They sell the spray at auto parts stores. Use acetone to knock the wax, etc. off, rough it with some 1000 grit, mask it off and shoot. Do fine coats till you get the build up you want. It will get knicked and it's easy to touch up.



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Discussion Starter #5
Deputy5211

Asked the local BMW dealer which painter they used for repairs. The body shop recommended had access to a BMW paint supply by code number. The u-joint part number I found on this forum: NAPA #210-0153. After researching the front cover options I picked the "Rhino" product. It's very durable, even the military uses it. The cost was only 90 dollars. I also had them spray the wheel well and the underside of the body for total protection. Let the paint cure for at least a week before having the Rhino coating applied. I then put a couple of coats of "ICE" car wax on everything, including the Rhino lining and put it back together. If you have not used "ICE" wax yet it is great. You don't have to worry about wax marks on black areas like rubber, Rhino lining etc. It leaves no white wax residue.

May we never find the end of the road!

Perry Ridgway

oknplm


My '05 LT is the same color as yours, and I am getting ready to do the same for my NZ Unigo.

Where did you find the matching gold paint, and which U-Joint did you use?

Thanks![/QUOTE]
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Used a big vise, hot air gun and I also have a u-joint removal tool, with no success. Started to think epoxy or high strength loctite was use on it when originally installed. Wasted two hours working on it with absolutely no progress. A real pain in the %[email protected]#. Took it to a shop that does u-joints. They used a hydraulic press and it sound like a gun shot when it broke free. Well worth the 20 dollars it cost. That is one tight fitting u-joint.

May we never find the end of the road!

Perry Ridgway

oknplm


grifscoots said:
So, Perry, have any fun getting the old u-joint out? We broke a steenkeen vise at my house.
 

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Okay, stupid question time, if the U-joint is so well installed, why change it :confused:
 

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Lonewuff said:
Okay, stupid question time, if the U-joint is so well installed, why change it :confused:
Simple my good man !!! The "Needle bearing" inside the u-joint wear out/ get broke/ burn up from no grease. :p
 

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So, the question remains :confused: :confused: :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I am assuming you do not know how u-joints work. Or most importantly how they are installed in this application. It is pressed into the trailer tongue and hitch unit of the uni-go. This friction fit has absolutely nothing to do with the actual moving parts of the u-joint, other than hold it in place. To be proactive I upgraded to a needle bearing u-joint that can be externally greased. In all likelihood it will outlast the trailer. Replacing a u-joint in this application is something I would not want to deal with on the road, when most problems seem to occur. I also found out during my research of the uni-go that u-joint and bearing failure was not that uncommon. The cost to replace these items:

Bearings 18.00 dollars
U-joint 12.00 dollars
Peace of Mind "Priceless"

May we never find the end of the road!

Perry Ridgway

oknplm



Lonewuff said:
So, the question remains :confused: :confused: :confused:
 

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I had replaced the frozen u-joint on my unigo with the NAPA part, but I had a severe case of trailer wag at high speeds and passing trucks. I replaced the NAPA joint with the UniGo joint (has tighter joint for lateral movement) and the wag is much less.
 

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rspyder said:
I had replaced the frozen u-joint on my unigo with the NAPA part, but I had a severe case of trailer wag at high speeds and passing trucks. I replaced the NAPA joint with the UniGo joint (has tighter joint for lateral movement) and the wag is much less.
I never had the wag. Be sure all the frame, body work and hitch plate are straight and true. The NZ hitch was notorious for being off some.



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Discussion Starter #19
Impact Collision & Custom Services
1875 Airport Inductrial Park Drive
Marietta, GA 30060
770-952-9421

gatorglenn said:
I like the look of the rhino lining. What body shop did the painting for you? Great job overall!!!

Glenn
 

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Simple my good man !!! The "Needle bearing" inside the u-joint wear out/ get broke/ burn up from no grease. :p
"Burn up from no grease" I wonder how it could burn up, no more than it moves. The Unigo U-Joint needs to be very stiff to prevent sway. Replacing it with a needle bearing U-Joint is a bad idea.
 
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