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I decided to start a new thread for this topic as it looks like it might be interesting. After seeing the SS u-bend at the Nushing web site, I started looking around for other similar bends, 90 in particular. I have yet to find 90s, but I am still looking. I did find a site with a range of u-bend sizes, including 5/16” at much lower cost than the Nushing part. Although, the Nushing part may include shipping which would likely be an equalizer. I also plan to now check Amazon for these parts now that I have a better description to search on.
 

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I found elbows, but none in 5/16” size. I suspect the 3/8” might stress the 8mm hose a little too much.

I did check the the Nushing part includes shipping so that probably equalizes the price in quantities of one.
 

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The U bend would have to have the right diameter to be useful. If you have yours apart, you can measure what it needs to be.
 

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I found a supplier that has 5/16” 90s and 180s. I was going to order a few of each, but found they have a $40 minimum order. Time to visit Amazon and look some more, but wanted to post this here for anyone else who may be interested.
 

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What in the Sam Hill are you up to now, V man :grin:
 

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The U bend would have to have the right diameter to be useful. If you have yours apart, you can measure what it needs to be.
I haven’t pulled the pump yet, but will try to remember to measure. I am going to measure the size of the u-bends under the tank also.
 

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Nothing good!
Is this for your fuel lines at the throttle body points or fuel pump? I thought about using metal once when I first got the RT but someone thought the extra weight might cause repetitive vibration issues so I used the BB kit for four years of flawless running.

I thought you had decided the friction losses of a 90 would be negligible give the pressures and short distances in the circuit? I will likely have my fuel tank back on in a couple of days and will take it out for its first test run, will let you know :)...however if you aren't afraid of 90s then NAPA has vacuum elbows that are fuel-line rated, they may even have a 45 but not sure I recall that correctly.

I can't believe this bike is going back together, lol...:surprise:
 

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Is this for your fuel lines at the throttle body points or fuel pump? I thought about using metal once when I first got the RT but someone thought the extra weight might cause repetitive vibration issues so I used the BB kit for four years of flawless running.

I thought you had decided the friction losses of a 90 would be negligible give the pressures and short distances in the circuit? I will likely have my fuel tank back on in a couple of days and will take it out for its first test run, will let you know :)...however if you aren't afraid of 90s then NAPA has vacuum elbows that are fuel-line rated, they may even have a 45 but not sure I recall that correctly.

I can't believe this bike is going back together, lol...:surprise:
External hoses from fuel tank to fuel rail. I have the in-tank solution with the EME nylon lines.

My concern with friction losses is with the tight 90 fittings that are more readily available, but are designed for gasses rather than liquids (air and vacuum lines). However, these beverage fittings are sweep fittings designed for liquids so they should be perfect. Just not sure I want to buy two dozen of them in order to meet the $40 minimum. Although, that is still less money than ONE SINGLE BMW u hose. :grin:
 

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External hoses from fuel tank to fuel rail. I have the in-tank solution with the EME nylon lines.

My concern with friction losses is with the tight 90 fittings that are more readily available, but are designed for gasses rather than liquids (air and vacuum lines). However, these beverage fittings are sweep fittings designed for liquids so they should be perfect. Just not sure I want to buy two dozen of them in order to meet the $40 minimum. Although, that is still less money than ONE SINGLE BMW u hose. :grin:
If you have friends who homebrew they might help you meet the minimum.
 

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If you have friends who homebrew they might help you meet the minimum.
True. I will probably run the bulk hose first and see how things go. It would be fairly easy to retrofit the metal bends later if they prove necessary. Just have to remove the side panels and I pretty much have that down to a science.
 

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I made my U bend out of brake line. I used the first stage of the brake line flare tool to put the bulge on it. Taking care to size the bulge on the U bend with the one on the filter.
 

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I made my U bend out of brake line. I used the first stage of the brake line flare tool to put the bulge on it. Taking care to size the bulge on the U bend with the one on the filter.
That was my first plan, but since I don’t have a flaring or beading tool, I had to buy that and then buy the brake line and it come out cheaper to just buy the SS parts preformed.
 

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Quick update: After over 1200 miles of mostly highway riding it died suddenly a half mile from my exit. There was an audible pop and nothing. Quick diagnosis was loss of fuel preesure. After removing the bodywork and tank I was able to confirm that one of my short hoses had let go from the feed to outside the tank (Not the u-bend). I have ordered a foot of replacement submersible hose and will put it back together in the morning.

Lesson: Don't skimp on the hose lengths. It cost me hours of work I could have avoided.
 

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Quick update: After over 1200 miles of mostly highway riding it died suddenly a half mile from my exit. There was an audible pop and nothing. Quick diagnosis was loss of fuel preesure. After removing the bodywork and tank I was able to confirm that one of my short hoses had let go from the feed to outside the tank (Not the u-bend). I have ordered a foot of replacement submersible hose and will put it back together in the morning.

Lesson: Don't skimp on the hose lengths. It cost me hours of work I could have avoided.
Not sure what hose you mean. I am only aware of two submersible hoses: the u-hose and the other short piece with a very slight bend. And not sure what you mean by skimping on the hose lengths.

I am happy to say that my SS bends and elbows and Gates hose lasted to Alaska and back with nary a leak. As did the BBY nylon in-tank hoses.
 

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Not sure what hose you mean.
I was referencing my photos posted above. When I installed the U-bend I was on verge of being short on submersible hose; but I went ahead and thought I was OK. I learned on Monday I was short. Photo of the assembly with new, slightly longer, hoses and stainless U-bend.
 

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When I replaced the fuel pump in my '05 LT, I used aftermarket hose and I worked at a transmission shop so I put a spring inside the u bend to keep it from crimping. Worked great but if I had to do it over, I'd order the BMW hoses.
 
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I was referencing my photos posted above. When I installed the U-bend I was on verge of being short on submersible hose; but I went ahead and thought I was OK. I learned on Monday I was short. Photo of the assembly with new, slightly longer, hoses and stainless U-bend.
OK, I was thinking external hoses. I did not use SS parts inside the tank as I had already bought the BBY nylon hose kit and the submersible hose is pretty darned expensive so I think the nylon kit is likely cheaper as well as easier and simply with fewer clamps to worry about. So far (10,000 miles), the nylon kit has worked great. I was a little concerned about the clamps holding given how slippery nylon is and the fact that it is thin and can’t crush a little like the rubber fuel line. However, so far, the clamps have held fine and the Alaska trip ran through a wide range of temps and a lot of vibration on rough roads so I think it something was coming loose, it would have done so by now.

Knowing what I know now, I would still use the nylon parts inside the tank, but I would buy the BMW custom fit hoses for the external lines.
 
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