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Enjoy The Ride
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This past July I helped a member here install his fix-it before it breaks kit for his top case latch. A few months ago I remember reading that they would be available again sometime early this year. I very seldom close my latch even though I have cut my pins down to .130 diameter for fear of breaking it. My 2000 LT latch closes very easy compared to my 2004 LT & the 2000 has the stock diameter pins :confused: Has anyone heard when they will be available?
 

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saddleman said:
This past July I helped a member here install his fix-it before it breaks kit for his top case latch. A few months ago I remember reading that they would be available again sometime early this year. I very seldom close my latch even though I have cut my pins down to .130 diameter for fear of breaking it. My 2000 LT latch closes very easy compared to my 2004 LT & the 2000 has the stock diameter pins :confused: Has anyone heard when they will be available?
Hey, Dave - this is last item I found from Evan back in late November. You might ping him and see if he gets the ping. He's pretty good about staying involved and keeping communications open. Good luck.
 

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Ahh! Stuff always takes longer than we would like, eh?!

I've got the Mazak Integrex (the machine that builds the "FIBIB" kits) back up and running beautifully! I did a major rebuild of the 5-axis milling spindle and turret assembly. New spindle bearings and over 100 seals were changed! It's running beautifully.

AND, I have material right here, IN-STOCK to build 144 more kits! I'm ON IT!! Thanks for your patience!

Best,
Evan Guy :wave :wave :dance: :dance:
 

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So Evan, those hunks of aluminum must be the replacement hinge pins!!!! :rotf::rotf:

Loren
 

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saddleman said:
My 2000 LT...
I know it to be true, but for some reason, that just sounds SO WRONG to me! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Spenceer said:
try using 0.125" diameter pins.
Mine cleaned up the wear grooves at .130 thick so that's as far as I cut them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ez_rdr55 said:
And only use one.
It is not unusual for me to have 40 or 50 lbs strapped to the top rack so I need to keep both pins installed. It would be hard on the hinges under braking with only one pin.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
BilletsGalore said:
Ahh! Stuff always takes longer than we would like, eh?!

I've got the Mazak Integrex (the machine that builds the "FIBIB" kits) back up and running beautifully! I did a major rebuild of the 5-axis milling spindle and turret assembly. New spindle bearings and over 100 seals were changed! It's running beautifully.

AND, I have material right here, IN-STOCK to build 144 more kits! I'm ON IT!! Thanks for your patience!

Best,
Evan Guy :wave :wave :dance: :dance:
We have 6 Mazak machines in our shop & two of them are the Integrex 5 axis models. They are like any machine some seem to run forever with little maintenance & others require a lot of maintenance. Mazak is one of our sponsors and they do all of our repairs. I have watched the technicians work and they are on there laptops & calling the factory quite often. That's quite impressive rebuilding them yourself :thumb:. I guess it's time to order a Fix-It Before It Breaks Kit. :D
 

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saddleman said:
We have 6 Mazak machines in our shop & two of them are the Integrex 5 axis models. They are like any machine some seem to run forever with little maintenance & others require a lot of maintenance. Mazak is one of our sponsors and they do all of our repairs. I have watched the technicians work and they are on there laptops & calling the factory quite often. That's quite impressive rebuilding them yourself :thumb:. I guess it's time to order a Fix-It Before It Breaks Kit. :D
The Integrex is a fairly fragile machine, as the spindle bearings can incur high shock loads if you do lathe work with interrupted cuts. And I did some rough oil field work that I shouldn't have. Integrex is very good at what it does, but it's NOT a heavy duty lathe for rough interrupted cuts. And since the machine is 9 years old and I was already going pretty deep to get the spindle bearings, I figured it would be a good time to go all the way to the bottom of the B-axis turret and get EVERY seal so that I wouldn't have to go back in.

What do you guys do? I'd love to see a website....Post it here, or send me a private message if that's your preference. Thanks!

Evan ;)
 

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saddleman said:
This past July I helped a member here install his fix-it before it breaks kit for his top case latch. A few months ago I remember reading that they would be available again sometime early this year. I very seldom close my latch even though I have cut my pins down to .130 diameter for fear of breaking it. My 2000 LT latch closes very easy compared to my 2004 LT & the 2000 has the stock diameter pins :confused: Has anyone heard when they will be available?
You should also smooth the under side of the hooks. I used my dremal tool with a stone to smooth out my hooks.
Have not had a problem. With that being said, hope it stays that way.

George
aka MTHelmet
 

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Discussion Starter #14
bemmerbiker said:
You should also smooth the under side of the hooks. I used my dremal tool with a stone to smooth out my hooks.
Have not had a problem. With that being said, hope it stays that way.

George
aka MTHelmet
I have done that to my latch hooks as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
BilletsGalore said:
The Integrex is a fairly fragile machine, as the spindle bearings can incur high shock loads if you do lathe work with interrupted cuts. And I did some rough oil field work that I shouldn't have. Integrex is very good at what it does, but it's NOT a heavy duty lathe for rough interrupted cuts. And since the machine is 9 years old and I was already going pretty deep to get the spindle bearings, I figured it would be a good time to go all the way to the bottom of the B-axis turret and get EVERY seal so that I wouldn't have to go back in.

What do you guys do? I'd love to see a website....Post it here, or send me a private message if that's your preference. Thanks!

Evan ;)
I work for Penske Racing at the NASCAR engine shop. We machine the blocks,heads & intakes from a raw casting. We also make most of the engine components brackets,pulleys,engine plates,rocker arms,pushrods,pistons,etc. We make some of the suspension parts. The race car shop has several CNC machines as well. We have three 5-axis machines and four other CNC machines an EDM machine a few surface grinders,crack detection,several hand mills & lathes,six honing machines the list could go on & on.
 

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Wow, what a neat job you've got! I'd imagine it's a real pleasure to show up there to buiuld the coolest stuff!!

Anyway, after a long battle to get my own products onto my own machines, there are lots of new Fix It Before It Breaks Kits in stock, shipping within 3 days of order! So sorry for the delay, y'all!! :wave :dance:
 

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I recently purchase the Fix it before it breaks Kit from Evan and I am glad that I did. While my LT (2002 year) was not showing any dimpling on the pot metal, Evan and I could feel where the corners at the point the latch handle and hooks arms (which are molded into the handle itself because it is a pot metal pour) had shift-moved-bent inward just a little bit. Upon installing the Fix it kit. It became evident that the hooks themselves had shifted quite a lot. While I don't think that a handle break was eminent, one was waiting for me in the future. And that would have required a complete replacement of the handle and handle mechanism. The instructions for the kit, were clear as were the photos. At Evan's suggestion, I removed the trunk so I could install the kit without having to look from under the handle. Also it was a lot cooler in my house. :)

So for those of you LT owners who still have their original trunk handles that are made of pot metal......check these symptoms, dimpling of the metal in the upper left and right area of the handle, slight bends inward of the corners, lots of pressure needed to close the handle ( a loud thunking sound as it closes) and/or a feeling of lots of resistance in closing the handle. Your handle might give the appearance of being ok. Its is not. It is a function of the type of metal BMW used for the handle and the hooks arms coming off the handle. And the stamping action placed on these pot metal parts (actually one part-handle and hooks arms). This stamping action that is caused every time the trunk latch is closed deforms the pot metal of the handle and the hooks arms. Your damage might be restricted to the hook arms, just the handle or both. But the deformation is there waiting to deform past the point of handling the load of latching the trunk lid down, and SNAP Crackle Pop! the latch is going to break. The cost to prevent the break (The Fix it before it breaks Kit (130 plus TX tax and shipping) is a lot easier to bear than a complete replace ($360 plus TX tax and shipping ). I don't think anyone would spend the money BMW wants for another lower case with a new pot metal handle just to have the same thing happen again.

My recommendation, get the Fix It Before it Breaks Kit, save peace of mind and a more expensive repair/replacement later if it does completely break.

Have a great day everyone.

Regards

Karl
 
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