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Discussion Starter #1
The right threaded ring is frozen. And the threaded insert has turned, breaking the pin that locals the insert. Where do I go from here??
 

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I
Bill,
Do you mean the "circlip" is broken on its own and fell out or off? The right threaded ring is put on with about 148 lbs of torque and the bearing stud is about 118 lbs of torque in either case it takes a good sharp pull with your half inch breaker bar (maybe with 3 feet of extension) to break the threaded ring loose. A 30mm impact socket will have 6 points and if you have someone hold the socket snugly it should do the job. I would treat it as though "thread locker" was used and put some heat (Heat Gun) on it to mobilize the grippy goo. Have someone ready should the quick snap destabililzes the bike! :eek: It will come off! :bmw:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Tourdog said:
I
Bill,
Do you mean the "circlip" is broken on its own and fell out or off? The right threaded ring is put on with about 148 lbs of torque and the bearing stud is about 118 lbs of torque in either case it takes a good sharp pull with your half inch breaker bar (maybe with 3 feet of extension) to break the threaded ring loose. A 30mm impact socket will have 6 points and if you have someone hold the socket snugly it should do the job. I would treat it as though "thread locker" was used and put some heat (Heat Gun) on it to mobilize the grippy goo. Have someone ready should the quick snap destabililzes the bike! :eek: It will come off! :bmw:
We have gone through the process as described to remove the “right threaded ring” Used the heat nothing. Used the heat with a 4’ cheater bar nothing. Used a air impact nothing. Used 280# 22 year old construct worker with a 4' cheater bar and the threaded bushing (pt# 46-51-2-332-2620) turned breaking off the stud bolt (pt# 46-51-2-332-704) that holds it in place. This is the bushing that the threaded ring screws into. Any suggestions.
 

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hammer ?

have you tried the 32mm socket with a half inch drive pull bar with someone holding it tight onto the bolt head and then hitting the pull bar with a 5 lb hammer?

sometimes a sharp blow will break it loose when steady pressure wont....maybe heat it up really hot and then a couple of sharp blows to the pull bar with a hammer.....

just a thought.....

i guess at this point.....the main thing is just not to mess up the threads in the swing arm itself....
 

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Careful

Bill

you said the “right threaded ring”. Be carefull here as the right part refers to the side of the motorcycle the pice fits into - it is NOT a right hand thread - just a regular thread.

Where did you get the part numbers from or could you post a picture?

Mine was really stiff and can offer the following advice:

Get small seat to sit on, a light, cigarette and blow troch. Sit on seat next to swing arm, light cigarette then blow torch. As you play the flame over the nut and surrounding area, and I mean keep it moving, enjoy your cigarette. When you have finished your cigarette turn off blow torch and have another go.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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What he has is the threaded insert in the frame is spinning!

My guess would be to remove the holding bolt (whats left of it)and try to remove the stuck parts. Most likely will involve replacement of both the insert and the threaded ring.

Have not run across this before.
 

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bulletbill said:
We have gone through the process as described to remove the “right threaded ring” Used the heat nothing. Used the heat with a 4’ cheater bar nothing. Used a air impact nothing. Used 280# 22 year old construct worker with a 4' cheater bar and the threaded bushing (pt# 46-51-2-332-2620) turned breaking off the stud bolt (pt# 46-51-2-332-704) that holds it in place. This is the bushing that the threaded ring screws into. Any suggestions.
Oh boy! If the ring that the lock ring threads into has turned, then you have a big problem. I don't know if that bushing is threaded into the aluminum, or cast in. If it is threaded in, you may be able to save it. You mentioned a locking screw, I don't have a bike now to look at, so assuming there is a screw threaded in between the bushing and aluminum casting to prevent the bushing from turning. If you can get them lined back up and get the locking screw out, you may be able to thread the whole bushing out. Can you get a picture taken to post?

If this cannot be done, worst case is a new frame! That is major, both work and expense. The frame itslelf is nearly $2000!

I know from experience that there is another issue when the frame is replaced. You will no longer have a VIN number on the bike, as it is stamped into the right lower part of the frame casting. I purchased metal stamps the right size and re-stamped the VIN number on my new frame.
 

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Bill,
As I understand it you have only a broken off "bearing stud" filling the original tapped hole iin the swing arm now. And the 30mm right threaded ring and bearing are off free and clear? I think you will need to dead center that remnant bearing stud (the 12mm one) and get a pilot hole drilled thru. Progressively up size the bit to get closer to those remaining threads........ you may have to do hand filing with round files to expose the last thread chards and to protect the eventual exposed swing arm threads. Something, whether dissimilar steel/ aluminum corrosion and or thread loc or severly overtorqued by someone, has dealt you a severe blow. But, with slow and careful hand machine work (drill bits and round file) you should come out with an unblemished swing arm and frame. If the problem is a steel insert for the frame that has sheared its stake and is free to spin then you have 2 separate problems, one on the swing arm and one on the frame. Can you discern if it is staked by a driven pin or is stake by a screw? I would do the swing arm separation first then (problem 1), Go slowly and carefully try to get some idea how that insert is/was being held "staked" in problem 2. I reread your original post Bill. You had already broken the "right threaded ring 30mm" loose but loose from the "frame" carrying the reinforce steel bushing and locking bolt with it" What was the later post doing with the 22 year old and cheater bar doing................. what was this additional work trying to do?

Go even slower and carefully.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just waiting

Thanks for all the replies. I have ordered the pieces to replace the threaded ring, bearing, etc. Now I'm spraying it with penetrating oil and hitting it (the threaded ring) with the impact a couple of times a day. If it doesn't come loose I guess my only option is to get the die grinder after it. Although I'm still open to any suggestions
 

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Bill,
On page 46.43 of the Official LT Repair Manual is a pretty good discription of what you are in to. If you study it the steps you are figuring out are pretty much detailed there. Quote "Stud Bolt", which stakes the large bushing, is obviously threaded and is now sheared as you stated. But, turn the whole mess and superimpose the halves together and drill and use an easy out (thread locked) and get it out and a replacement back in. That may be enough to stabilize the bushing to get the blasted "threaded ring off". Since the bushing is a tight fit and you have spun it you don't want to loosen its moorings since that anchors that whole element of the suspension. And those bushings probably don't come in 1 or 2 thousands over sized. I don't think hammering on it will help!!! :eek: Then if necessary to do it follow those detailed steps in pulling that "bushing". It apparently is friction fit to the aluminum frame as you see them pulling it with a puller using both heat and cold. But, you may not need to pull it unless its threads or what are damaged. Since there are many people here interested in what is going on with this rare event please keep us updated. Anyone doing any swing-arm R/R could face this very same unplanned event. I would encourage everyone to review that area of the maintenance manual (46.43).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Not YET!

lenny said:
have you fixed it yet ??
We have been successful in removing the right thread ring after repositioning the sleeve that it is screwed into. 15mins of propane heat, impact to line it up, drill out the remaining piece of the pin the stake it in position. Using a bolt from the outside to hold the sleeve. 35mins of propane heat to the threaded ring and it came loose. HOW the parts that screw into the swing arm are unmovable. 20mins of heat 1/2" break over 3' cheater bar 14mm impact socket. Broke the socket??? I'm about ready for the sawsall (sp).
 

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Bill,

I feel your pain. Been there, done that, just not on the LT so far. Sounds like a little bit of C-4 might be a better choice and if you do please capture it on video. Good luck.
 

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I have just went through this same problem with a friends LT. I ended up using a sawsall and of course I ruined the swingarm, but it was already ruined because of stripped threads at the small bearing area in the final drive. Found a used swingarm and now gathering parts. I found the drive shaft lock ring on the transmission output shaft gone, no lube on the splines, small taper bearing bad on one side, stripped threads. Friends wheel came loose while riding. He bought the bike used and the previous owner just got the bike out of a shop here in Florida. Shops name withheld.
 
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