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Discussion Starter #1
I ordered the seals that I thought were correct for the leaking transmission in my 2001 LT. Now I'm not so sure that I have the correct seals. Is there anyone out there who has done this job on a pre 2004 LT that can tell me the PNs of the seals they installed? Signed; Confused LT Owner
 

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2011 R1200RT
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Which ones did you order?
Have you looked at the MAX BMW parts fiche system?
I replaced mine on the 05, not sure if seals are different, but I can't seem to find the parts list I used. I had to replace a bearing, with the seal, that caused my transmission to leak.
Search for "Clutch replacement part list" on this forum and you may find what you are looking for.
 

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I ordered the seals that I thought were correct for the leaking transmission in my 2001 LT. Now I'm not so sure that I have the correct seals. Is there anyone out there who has done this job on a pre 2004 LT that can tell me the PNs of the seals they installed? Signed; Confused LT Owner
For this job the seals you should have are ( assuming you are refreshing what is under the trans so you don't have to go back in later.

Slave cavity seal
Line 10 goes under slave cylinder
23 12 7 705 085 SHAFT SEAL, DRIVE SHAFT - 17X28X7 0.02 1 $17.58

Output shaft seal for drive shaft
Also line 10 on fiche
23 12 2 330 135 SHAFT SEAL - 25X40X6 0.02 1 $19.35

Input shaft seal will have felt on the seal face
23 12 7 705 086 SHAFT SEAL - 20X32X8 0.02 1 $19.35

Rear main seal
11 11 7 666 186 SHAFT SEAL - 50X80X10 0.09 1 $34.70

Just did this on my 2001 and these are what I bought.

Why do you think you have the wrong seals.

They should look like the ones in this picture along with the nuts bolts Viton o-ring thrust washer etc necessary to do the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the reply Gordon. I got mixed up by the interchange part #s but I see from your list I have 3 of the 4 seals you listed. Looks like I missed one, that added to my confusion. It is the 23 12 2 330 135 that I missed but I new I needed a seal that measures 25x40x6.
One more trip to the local dealer! FYI. I bought the Siebenrock oil resistant clutch from Hornig for $226 US including shipping. Thanks again, panic attack is over. :smile:
 

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Thanks for the reply Gordon. I got mixed up by the interchange part #s but I see from your list I have 3 of the 4 seals you listed. Looks like I missed one, that added to my confusion. It is the 23 12 2 330 135 that I missed but I new I needed a seal that measures 25x40x6.
One more trip to the local dealer! FYI. I bought the Siebenrock oil resistant clutch from Hornig for $226 US including shipping. Thanks again, panic attack is over. :smile:
OK, good deal. There is another seal for the output shaft that I actually used because I set the BMW one too deep. It is available on Amazon and is a 25x40x7 instead of 25x40x6 but is a double lip where the bmw is not plus the sealing lip at least on the ones I got was 20 thousandths closer to the seal face so 20 thousandths more forgiveness on setting it. There is an oil hole on the output shaft and if you set the seal just a hair too deep, it will leak. I found this out first hand and didn't even get the swing arm back on luckily. It is american made, double lip and much cheaper. I ordered 2 and gave one away recently.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GTSRWP8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00


The picture shows how deep i set the BMW seal and how it was leaking. The other is the AVX seal set just flush and you can see the double lip. I think it is a better seal seeing this is outside and even though it is covered by the swing arm boot, it still is protected better if any dirt found its way in there. The second pic shows the pesky oil hole at the top if you look closely. Make sure you DO NOT set that seal too deep or you will be buying another.
 

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I know it may sound like the dreaded "slippery slope" but... while in there I would recommend replacing the clutch slave cylinder and drill the weep hole.
Too much of a pill to come back later >:)
 

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I know it may sound like the dreaded "slippery slope" but... while in there I would recommend replacing the clutch slave cylinder and drill the weep hole.
Too much of a pill to come back later >:)
+1 It is much easier to drill the slave weep hole with the transmission on a bench in front of you. Unless it was just done for some reason, I would also replace the slave as Zippy said. Beemer Boneyard still has them listed as available but they won't be there forever. $104 vs $176 from MAX.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you for those ideas. I ordered the clutch slave 3 weeks ago. The drilling is also in the plans. I'll get the one missing seal at the dealer, since I can pick it up Friday. Plan to spend some hours in the shop Saturday and Sunday. I will be lifting the frame and removing the transmission Saturday. Hopefully we'll begin to reassemble Sunday.
 

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Thank you for those ideas. I ordered the clutch slave 3 weeks ago. The drilling is also in the plans. I'll get the one missing seal at the dealer, since I can pick it up Friday. Plan to spend some hours in the shop Saturday and Sunday. I will be lifting the frame and removing the transmission Saturday. Hopefully we'll begin to reassemble Sunday.
Snap a few pics of your progress. I at least like to see how people do this job.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Thank you for those ideas. I ordered the clutch slave 3 weeks ago. The drilling is also in the plans. I'll get the one missing seal at the dealer, since I can pick it up Friday. Plan to spend some hours in the shop Saturday and Sunday. I will be lifting the frame and removing the transmission Saturday. Hopefully we'll begin to reassemble Sunday.

One little tip (well two). Replace the two front motor mount bolts (one at a time of course) with equivalent length 1/4 bolts. This will give you some lateral movement at the frame/transmission interface for easier clearance. Use two de-headed M 8 bolts 3.5" long as guides to slide the transmission away from the engine. Reduces stress on the input shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
One little tip (well two). Replace the two front motor mount bolts (one at a time of course) with equivalent length 1/4 bolts. This will give you some lateral movement at the frame/transmission interface for easier clearance. Use two de-headed M 8 bolts 3.5" long as guides to slide the transmission away from the engine. Reduces stress on the input shaft.
Do the M8 bolts also aid reassembly?
 

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Do the M8 bolts also aid reassembly?
I made a set for reassembly but mine at 2 inches long were too long to get the transmission over them during reassembly so rather than rework them, I had Panzer there with another pair of hands so we took them out and just muscled the transmission into place and put bolts in to hold it. If they are the right length then they act as guide pins so you don't have to hold the weight of the transmission while trying to get it up, splines alligned and in place. Maybe 1.5 inches would work but I didn't take out or loosen my battery box which was in the way of having enough clearance to get onto the guide pins being as long as they were. I haven't cut them down yet but plan to do so if i get the opportunity to aid with this job for someone else and keep them as part of the set of tools for the job.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
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I had no issue with my 3.5" bolts but then I also had replaced the front mount bolts with the 1/4 temporary ones so I had lateral movement at the rar of the engine. It made clearing the frame soooo much easier.
 
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