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Discussion Starter #1
I'm own an LT and have been using a 14mm allan key to remove the transmission oil drain plug when I change the oil. I've bought a 2008 RT and am about to sell my LT, just wondering if I need to keep my 14 mm for the RT or is the drain plug different than the LT.

Thanks

R
 

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The drain plug is an 8mm allen, the fill plug is 19mm hex iirc
As always, loosen the fill plug first.
 

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New2rt said:
The drain plug is an 8mm allen, the fill plug is 19mm hex iirc
As always, loosen the fill plug first.
You'll also have to figure out a way to sluice the draining fluid into your pan, as the center stand prevents you from placing the pan directly under the drain.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Are there any fittings on the RT that would require a 14 alan wrench or am I safe to let it go with the new owner of my LT?

thanks guys

r
 

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itspossible said:
Are there any fittings on the RT that would require a 14 alan wrench or am I safe to let it go with the new owner of my LT?

thanks guys

r
The 14mm Allen is fairly unique- let me tell you my story...

I bought a 1998 R11S and when I got it home I began a front to back service. Encountered the 14mm hex transmission drain plug and of course did not have one that would fit into the very tight location of the plug.

Went to a local, old-time tool shop and of course they had a 14mm hex key. Not too bad a price- Less then $6.00. I but and paid for it- then asked if they had a chop saw. He said- "of course". Cold you cut this long end off and give the short piece? Sure he said- and went to the back. Came back with the 1" piece,, which he had polished and formed the ends to remove sharp edges. How much I said- Nothing, thanks for the business...

I vote to keep it. You never know if you'll need it again, and that is a hard piece to find.
 

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05Train said:
You'll also have to figure out a way to sluice the draining fluid into your pan, as the center stand prevents you from placing the pan directly under the drain.
That's good advice on having to "sluice the draining fluid" off to the side due to interference with the center stand. I tried using a flexible plastic sheet protector that I'd seen in one of the videos on-line. Worked okay, but trying to hold onto the sheet protector after its got gear oil all over it was quite a challenge. I think about 25% of the oil ended up un the floor. Quite a mess. On the positive side, I switched to a synthetic gear oil and the shifting is smoother, particularly when cold.
 

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srgilmore said:
That's good advice on having to "sluice the draining fluid" off to the side due to interference with the center stand. I tried using a flexible plastic sheet protector that I'd seen in one of the videos on-line. Worked okay, but trying to hold onto the sheet protector after its got gear oil all over it was quite a challenge. I think about 25% of the oil ended up un the floor. Quite a mess. On the positive side, I switched to a synthetic gear oil and the shifting is smoother, particularly when cold.
Yup, I tried using tin foil and managed to get about 2/3 of the fluid into the pan. Gave me an excuse to give the lift table a good cleaning. I also changed to synthetic 75W-140 fluid, which really smoothed the shifts out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for your replys, guess I'll hang onto it, for the record I've never been able to change the tranny oil on the LT without a major spill for all the above reasons, I was hoping the RT would be easier...guess not.

r
 

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I have one of those long-necked plastic funnels. It is old enough and flexible enough to jam that sucker under the drain hole and it works pretty good. Still get a little drip (or flood)... if I don't hold it right.

I loosen the drain plug but do not remove it till I get the "catcher" in position then I sneak a couple of fingers in and finish the removal. About half the time I drop it but it dose'nt go anywhere but into the funnel.

Another tip... I have a old metal funnel- of a smaller size. I have plastic tubing from the tip of the funnel to the fill hole. I tie the rig to the side of the bike and it really helps get the lube in there without the mess. Just pour it in a little at a time.

The spec is one quart, which happens to be just at the lower edge of the fill hole. Do not attempt to get more oil in there than the lower lip.... just say'n.

The controversy must be continuing on the 75W90 versus 75W140 spec. This started back in the Airhead days but the "conventional" wisdom now is to stick with the 90 weight... especially for the final drive. There was some anecdotal evidence that the 140 weight was implicated in the final drive failure rate. I do not think anything was ever conclusive on that though.
 

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I'm pretty sure 75-140 is spec'd for the trans and 75-90 is spec'd for the final drive. I use a piece of cardboard to direct the oil into the pan. Throw it away when I'm done.
 

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Bob1200rtc1 said:
I'm pretty sure 75-140 is spec'd for the trans and 75-90 is spec'd for the final drive.
I would direct your attention to the official BMW Repair & Service Manual...

Section 23 Gearbox- Mechanical

"Oil Capacity- Gearbox- Brand name hypoid-gear lubricant SAE 90 API GL 5" unquote... this would include full synthetics, at 75W-90.
 

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140 not for FD but OK for tranny- is in fact used and recommended at various dealerships in hot climate areas.
Is a tiny bit more forgiving on shift technique but the difference is small. Not much of an advantage or disadvantage.

There are almost no allen fasteners on a hexhead let alone a 14 mm. But I'm with Hopz- that's such an odd size I'd keep it in my toolbox for anything else I might run into- but then I tend to end up working on stuff that's not mine so I never know what I'll need...
 

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I'll stick with the BMW Rep ROM.
:bmw:
 

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I just did my gear oil and other fluids yesterday. Here is a hint for the tranny, drink lots of coffee. :confused:

OK, I cut the bottom off of a 1 gal milk jug and use it as a pan, Throw it away when I am done so no clanup involved (Just put it in a few grocery bags). I used it for the rear end as well as the trans.

For the trans drain plug problem, I used an empty coffee creamer container (plastic one). Cut off the bottom. Hmmm, too wode on top. Then cut as a portion of the side, roll it in tighter and stapled it back so that it was narrow at the top and pushed it into place It held itself. Didn't spill any (except the little on ny hand from the plug removal). Again, throw it away when done. It is amazing what you can find right there in your recycling bins.

I started doing this with my dirt bikes. Works real well and I always have plenty of stuff around. You could make a more permanent funnel out of soda cans, but then you would have to clean them when done.

As for tools, a made a quick trip to Sears and bought (another) set of torx bits and square drives. They have a new "evolution" series and the price was $10 per set with lifetime warranty. It had all of the bits that I needed. Also picked up some meteric wrenches that went down to 8 and 7 mm for the brake job (that took a while for the servo but was easy).

I will be posting videos that I found and cheat sheets that I made soon, but now I have to go ride... :D
 

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1LIFE2LIVE said:
Anyone have pictures of where these fill/drain plugs are located ?

THANKS,
08RT
The Hexhead RT fill plug is under the right side body panel and the drain is underneath. Sorry, no pics.
 

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hopz said:
The 14mm Allen is fairly unique- let me tell you my story...
I vote to keep it. You never know if you'll need it again, and that is a hard piece to find.
You may purchase a BMW car, in which case you'll likely need 14mm for trans fluid, etc.
 

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Go to BMWMOA.org. go to forums,hexheads,tech library. They have descriptions for almost everything your going to do yourself on your bike. There is a good write up on changing the gear oil.
 
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