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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 03 K1200LT with just over 22k on it. Lately, I've noticed that more power is required to make the bike go, and at higher speeds, if I give it some throttle, the engine revs more than it accellerates. Can anyone help with what I am experiencing? Is it normal? If not, what do I do to fix it?

Thanks,

Milton
 

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Sounds like the clutch is slipping........a major repair on this bike. You need to look into it asap before you are left stranded. Use the search function to find many threads on DIY repair .
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Yup. Get it upwards of 4,000 rpm in 5th gear and roll on a heavy application of throttle. If the rpms climb rapidly then the clutch is worn.
 

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Interesting with those low miles.

I read a few places on here that as the clutch wears that you gain fluid in the reservoir..if that is true and if someone topped off the reservoir to much would that make the clutch not release all the way.
Hope that was not to dumb a thought. Cheers!
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Possible but not likely. Also you can feel the clutch as it wears since the engage point will get closer and closer to full out on the lever
 

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The chance of the clutch being worn out at 22k is pretty small... However it is a possibility.. My money says you're having a slave cylinder, engine, or trans seal failure and the clutch is contaminated with oil....Having to refill the clutch master cylinder or low fluid therein is your clue...

Surprised with all the contaminated clutch disks here that this has not been mentioned...
It is, After all, The number one clutch failure mode...

Either way, Contaminated or worn out.. You're doing your clutch and some seals and a new slave cylinder if you're smart...

John
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You guys are hitting on a bunch of points here. I an getting rapid rpm increase in 5th gear, and the engine engages too close to full clutch release. That was not the issue last year, or earlier on this year. I am a modest DIYer, but this is reminding me of what I did to my 2000 740il! Don't want to blow this thing up. If I went through my dealer, how much am I looking at spending on this job? Please be gentle.
 

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Just off my head, but north of $3K.... Parts alone are about $8-$900.... It is a relatively easy and straightforward job. most everything is noted in the annals of the forum. Of coarse I can say this, because I've been in twice on my two bikes...

The first time was daunting, but I made it through by researching and pulling up everything i could on the subject.
 

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4 years ago, my dealer replaced the clutch on an '05 LT for $1300. That included labor for swapping shocks for the new Ohlins I provided, and a new slave cylinder.
 

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Old Slow Guy in A Fast Car
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About $2500.00 is the going rate (Parts & Labor) here in Central Texas. My Dealer just priced one the other day for a customer that I helped get his bike to them.
 

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Sounds like your clutch is going -- in fact, I just replaced mine as my 05 with about 16,000 miles was doing the exact same thing as yours was doing. yes, at 16,000 miles. Fortunately, I had some local LT owners who stepped up and helped me do the work.

Here is where things all started...

To begin with, I thought my clutch was slipping due to contaminated oil. That said, I only wanted to drill the weep hole for the clutch slave. But when I got there, everything around my clutch slave was nice and dry.

So all things being what they were, the other LT owners in my garage said, "let's take out the tranny as we are pretty much right there -- we can then see what was causing your clutch to slip." They were right (thank you bob, rob and mike).

Bottom line: We got the tranny off and found that the friction plate was just worn out. I guess the PO slipped the clutch a lot when riding. Kinda relieved actually that it was only a worn out clutch.

I replaced my clutch (w/ all the misc. parts) for less than $700 and decided that using the siebenrock friction plate was a better investment (this was probably another $120 more than the OEM friction plate). I did change the seal for the clutch plate cylinder as it was pretty easy to do (we did not change the rear engine seal).

To make the job easier, I do suggest some things:

1. Get 1 or 2 local LT owners who are handy to help you out. So much easier than just by yourself.

2. Watch the weep hole drilling video. Great resource.

3. Do some research on the clutch replacement -- there are some great documents on this website.

4. The tools you need are pretty basic EXCEPT you need the socket cut out for your allen wrench. I also made a clutch alignment tool by buying two wooden dowels from home depot -- for less than $7.

5. I bought a motorcycle table (harbor freight) which made the job a lot easier. Best $300 spent as it made the work get done faster and easier. You also need a floor jack to lift the tranny up and down and two stationery jacks to support a 4x4 (under the side cases there is a frame to use).

6. When you take out the drive shaft, notice how the phasing was done (see how the yokes get lined up).

7. Write down all the torque specs before reassembly. This will give you a quick reference -- oh yeah, have a manual handy.

Hope this helps. It is a lot of labor but I gained tons of experience in doing this. Plus, John Z was invaluable too.
 

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I just got a quote from Blue Moon in Norcross Georgia to replace clutch and slave cylinder. $2000.
 

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Al -- Just read your thread and that price seems rather high. The clutch slave cylinder is only a $100 item. Secondly, I shopped prices for a new clutch and it seemed like the prices were around $1,200 - $1,400.

You might want to shop around for a better price.

Glenn
 
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