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Fellow riders, good day!

I now have my 99 K1200LT for six months. Bought it with 26.6K miles. I could not find any service history, and it appears that I am the second owner (bought it from a Honda dealer in Palestine, TX). They claim the oil was changed (but handed me the filter, which turned out to be not for this bike), but I did replace the oil anyway. That thing was pitch dark. I also changed the oil filter (had a bit of a challenge with a broken bolt inside the oil cover, but received great help from this forum). I also replaced the final drive oil (pitch dark), and today I changed the transmission fluid. I have the feeling it was never done. The bike now has 28.7K miles.

The question here is: looking at the pictures, does the transmission drain plug residue look normal to you, considering the plug may have never been removed? I had a very hard time removing it, but finally did it. Your opinion is greatly appreciated.

I have not noticed anything weird while changing gears, though.

Thank you,

Jerry
 

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For 20K miles looks normal. Next time will be far less if nothing but a little mud. Good that your going through the bike. Fresh tires? And think about Spiegler brake lines. The old rubber ones are way past due. Ignition wires from beemerboneyard will be a nice treat for the bike also.
 

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Well. Considering that it's probably never been changed from the looks of it. Just change your fluids and do the maintenance and ride it. Check your back wheel for play to see if final drive is ok. Check out Bmw club of northern illinios for more how to videos.
 
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I see nothing wrong with the collection of fuzz.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
For 20K miles looks normal. Next time will be far less if nothing but a little mud. Good that your going through the bike. Fresh tires? And think about Spiegler brake lines. The old rubber ones are way past due. Ignition wires from beemerboneyard will be a nice treat for the bike also.

Hello beech!

Indeed. Just got the front tire changed, Metz 880. Rear was replaced when I purchased, 6 months ago. It is a Bridgestone. Thank you for the tips. I will plan on replacing your recommendations.

Ride safe!


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Well. Considering that it's probably never been changed from the looks of it. Just change your fluids and do the maintenance and ride it. Check your back wheel for play to see if final drive is ok. Check out Bmw club of northern illinios for more how to videos.

Thank you! Those videos are very helpful. I just purchased the air and fuel filters, and that will be my next project. I have been a Honda rider for 9 years, and never worked on my bikes. This forum and the BMW Illinois videos gave me the inspiration, not to mention the money saved.

Final drive appears in good condition.

Ride safe!


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Welcome to the forum. You came to the right place if you bought a LT. The motor-heads on this forum and you know who you are have vast knowledge and experience with these machines and are very willing to help, Good luck with your new LT.
 

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Thank you! Those videos are very helpful. I just purchased the air and fuel filters, and that will be my next project. I have been a Honda rider for 9 years, and never worked on my bikes. This forum and the BMW Illinois videos gave me the inspiration, not to mention the money saved.

Final drive appears in good condition.

Ride safe!


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Go ahead and buy new fuel lines and stock clamps for inside the tank. This will save you headaches down the road. The crimp pliers are about $30.00.

Robert

P.S.: Jerry, I'm not too far from you if you need a hand. I'm just outside of Columbus.
 
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Go ahead and buy new fuel lines and stock clamps for inside the tank. This will save you headaches down the road. The crimp pliers are about $30.00.

Robert

P.S.: Jerry, I'm not too far from you if you need a hand. I'm just outside of Columbus.

Good day, Robert!

I am trying to understand/identify what is the fuel lines and stock clamp O would like to go ahead and replace these as well. The bile only has 29K miles, but also has 17 years, so...

As I prepare to change the fuel filter and air filter, other recommendations I received were to replace the quick disconnects, which I found on Beemer...the Hyperpro shocks (purple color) on EPM, and ignition wires (have no idea where to by or part number).

Would there be anything else I should consider, since the fairings will be off? Also, I noticed the bike is so dirty under the fairings. Can I spray simple green and hose it down? Or leave it dirty?

Thank you for tour advice. Any additional input from fellow riders is also greatly appreciated.

Jerry


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For 20K miles looks normal. Next time will be far less if nothing but a little mud. Good that your going through the bike. Fresh tires? And think about Spiegler brake lines. The old rubber ones are way past due. Ignition wires from beemerboneyard will be a nice treat for the bike also.
I have some brand new Spiegler brake line. Smoke/clear color. They will fit your bike.

Call me if interested. 702 469 6718.
Jean
 

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I say the plug looks fine. This is what it will look like at about 150,000 miles...
 

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Good day, Robert!

I am trying to understand/identify what is the fuel lines and stock clamp O would like to go ahead and replace these as well. The bile only has 29K miles, but also has 17 years, so...

As I prepare to change the fuel filter and air filter, other recommendations I received were to replace the quick disconnects, which I found on Beemer...the Hyperpro shocks (purple color) on EPM, and ignition wires (have no idea where to by or part number).

Would there be anything else I should consider, since the fairings will be off? Also, I noticed the bike is so dirty under the fairings. Can I spray simple green and hose it down? Or leave it dirty?

Thank you for tour advice. Any additional input from fellow riders is also greatly appreciated.

Jerry


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Jerry, I have the Oetiker clamp pliers and a spring compressor for the Hyper pros. Pick up some clamps from a BMW shop, I have a few but don't remember if I have enough. Buy plug wires (if necessary) and filters from Beemer Boneyard.

Robert
 
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Jerry,do not spray with simple green and water under the plastic. Too many connectors and small bits. Simple green is nasty if left on for long and and seeps into small spaces. Look around for photos, the quick connects should be placed in easy to get to locations. Remember that you must hold the release tap in completely while re connecting them or you can nick the O-ring and cause a leak. Beemer bone yard sells them. You can go on https://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/PartsFiche.aspx
and find your OEM parts you needed for the inside the tank work. The crimp type Oetiker type clamps need to be very snug. Regular pliers will not work on these clamps to crush the ears. You have to get into the little valley and crimp it. Very dull side cutters can work in a pinch. But not recommended. It happens once and a while if not tight enough a hose will pop off inside the tank and the bike quits. Can be confusing unless you remember that you recently worked on the bike fuel system. You may fine a reusable type clamp that is an over riding snap into position clamp inside your tank. If you can figure out how to manipulate them without the special pliers they are great. I bought some pliers for them but seldom run into them anymore.
 
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Jerry, I have the Oetiker clamp pliers and a spring compressor for the Hyper pros. Pick up some clamps from a BMW shop, I have a few but don't remember if I have enough. Buy plug wires (if necessary) and filters from Beemer Boneyard.



Robert

Thank you, Robert!

I will probably buy the clamp pliers at Northern Tool. I will let you know about the compressor. As for the clamps, you are referring to which ones?

Also, would you recommend I change the front and rear springs to Hyperpro and keep the OEM shocks? It is $269 versus a new entire shock/spring combo.

How about steering damper. How do I know it is time to replace? 30k miles and 17 years. Do not think it has been ever replaced.

Thank you for your time. I see we are 50 minutes away from each other.

Jerry


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Thank you, Robert!

I will probably buy the clamp pliers at Northern Tool. I will let you know about the compressor. As for the clamps, you are referring to which ones?

Also, would you recommend I change the front and rear springs to Hyperpro and keep the OEM shocks? It is $269 versus a new entire shock/spring combo.

How about steering damper. How do I know it is time to replace? 30k miles and 17 years. Do not think it has been ever replaced.

Thank you for your time. I see we are 50 minutes away from each other.

Jerry


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Jerry, I put the springs only on mine at about 10K. I have 20K now. Others on this forum say about 30K is it for stock shocks. I know I will push mine further. I'm looking at the Yacugars right now as they have the longest rebuild interval. Repair the damper when it leaks, I have no idea how long that will be. If you go the HyperPro route, you can pull your shocks and bring them out and we can swap springs in less than an hour. On the clamps just go to Wild West and buy the stock ones. (4) 16 12 1176918 clamps, (1) "U" hose 16 14 2325808, (1) hose 16 14 2305760.

Robert
 
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Question for you guys that have recently changed your transmission fluid. Do you remember the size hex head it takes to remove the bolt from the muffler bracket. Is it an odd ball size like a 5.5mm? The Clymers manual does not state the size and Kirk's video doesn't reference the size. A 5mm is too small while the 6mm is a touch large. However, the hex head looks like it may be slightly buggered which may be why the 6mm doesn't fit.

While on the subject, the Clymers manual states there is not a BMW recommended transmission fluid change interval. What is the general consensus for changing transmission fluid?

Rob, 2000LT
Navarre, FL
 

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Question for you guys that have recently changed your transmission fluid. Do you remember the size hex head it takes to remove the bolt from the muffler bracket. Is it an odd ball size like a 5.5mm? The Clymers manual does not state the size and Kirk's video doesn't reference the size. A 5mm is too small while the 6mm is a touch large. However, the hex head looks like it may be slightly buggered which may be why the 6mm doesn't fit.

While on the subject, the Clymers manual states there is not a BMW recommended transmission fluid change interval. What is the general consensus for changing transmission fluid?

Rob, 2000LT
Navarre, FL
No oddball sizes on the LT to my knowledge. I don't know if my 2007 is the same as your 2000, but on mine the small end bolt is 6 mm and the large end is 8 mm.

Might be deformed or full of road crud. Suggest scratching around in the hex drive hole with an awl or small screwdriver to loosen stuff, then spray with carb cleaner. Watch your eyes as spraying into a cavity can be hazardous to your eyesight.
 
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The little one is a 6 mm the big one is 8 mm or a hex head (I have seen both).
 

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It was a pain in the rear, but I finally was able to remove the bolt and drain the transmission fluid. I think the magnet looks good.

I need a sanity check before adding new fluid. Clymer's states to use SAE 90. I have in my notes to use 75W-140. Please confirm if 75W-140 is acceptable or preferable over SAE 90W.

Thanks,

Rob, 2000LT
Navarre, FL
 

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