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Discussion Starter #1
I've owned several (12) K1200LT's over the years.
I'm looking for something a bit more modern with more power. As my wife no longer accompanies me on rides I'm not to concerned about long distance passenger comfort (my reason for having LT's) so am thinking about buying a K1600GTL.
I know all about the LT issues, but what would you guys suggest I look for when buying a 2-3 year old GTL?
Thanks

Simon
 

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Get a K1600 GT not GTL
That depends on which seating position is more comfortable for him.

Either bike can be ridden just as easily or just as aggressively, so besides the added trunk and taller windscreen, its the seating position that really makes the difference.
 

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Old Slow Guy in A Fast Car
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Simon come on over to the k1600Forum, you will find more info then you will ever need to help with making your mind up. I would start with a test ride of both the GT & the GTL to see the different riding positions.
 

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I've owned several (12) K1200LT's over the years.
I'm looking for something a bit more modern with more power. As my wife no longer accompanies me on rides I'm not to concerned about long distance passenger comfort (my reason for having LT's) so am thinking about buying a K1600GTL.
I know all about the LT issues, but what would you guys suggest I look for when buying a 2-3 year old GTL?
Thanks

Simon
Be sure to ride the RTW before making the final choice. You will save 130 + pounds over the GT with markedly improved handling, weather protection etc. Within about 2 weeks there could be some deals on returned bikes. The fix of the rear shock is expected on 8-18.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, I bought a K1600GT (I already have a 2010 RT)
And I'm VERY pleased with it. Sure the driveline clunk is a bit tiresome, but I find I'm adapting my riding style around it to minimise the clunk without even thinking about it.
Getting off the K1600 and getting back on the RT, it feels so agricultural by comparison!
I love it....my new favourite ever bike.

Simon
 

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Get a later GT or GTL 2013 or 2014. They made changes to the hand grips for better access for the passenger, water pump improvement less prone to leaking, moved the lower lights better protected, and upgraded the hand switches left and right for more reliability. We got the GTL, it's Gretchen approved.
 

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Well, I bought a K1600GT (I already have a 2010 RT)
And I'm VERY pleased with it. Sure the driveline clunk is a bit tiresome, but I find I'm adapting my riding style around it to minimise the clunk without even thinking about it.
Getting off the K1600 and getting back on the RT, it feels so agricultural by comparison!
I love it....my new favourite ever bike.

Simon
Glad you like your new ride. I think the K16 is the best out there at the present time. (I am a little biased though ;-)
 

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The one thing that would stop me from buying a 1600 is the maintenance. That 18K mile valve adjustment is pricey. Someone local told be it was something like $800 just for that. Is that right? I do all my own maintenance on an RT, but I wouldn't feel comfortable doing the valves on the 1600. The other thing is buying used. if it's an older model without the improved parts and it's out of warranty, that's more risk too.
 

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The one thing that would stop me from buying a 1600 is the maintenance. That 18K mile valve adjustment is pricey. Someone local told be it was something like $800 just for that. Is that right? I do all my own maintenance on an RT, but I wouldn't feel comfortable doing the valves on the 1600. The other thing is buying used. if it's an older model without the improved parts and it's out of warranty, that's more risk too.
The K1600 is actually less expensive for mechanical maintenance vs. the LT; much easier too, if you DIY. "Major" maintenance is every 18K miles vs. 12K miles on the LT. Valve check at 18,000 cost seems to vary wildly amongst dealers. I've seen one post where the valve check/radiator flush was $325.00. That seems very reasonable. Most guys skip the spark plug change at 18K miles; they'll last much longer than that.

TIRES on the other hand are a different story. :rolleyes: With all that power and torque (and the CA twisties in my 'hood) I seem to change tires more often than oil! :eek:
 

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The K1600 is actually less expensive for mechanical maintenance vs. the LT; much easier too, if you DIY. "Major" maintenance is every 18K miles vs. 12K miles on the LT. Valve check at 18,000 cost seems to vary wildly amongst dealers. I've seen one post where the valve check/radiator flush was $325.00. That seems very reasonable. Most guys skip the spark plug change at 18K miles; they'll last much longer than that.

TIRES on the other hand are a different story. :rolleyes: With all that power and torque (and the CA twisties in my 'hood) I seem to change tires more often than oil! :eek:
I have an RT, so that would be different. Doing valve adjustments isn't difficult and the only pain in the ass is transmission and air filter changes because bodywork has to come off. $325 for a valve clearance check is one thing, but how much when they actually need adjustment? As far as tires go, I am getting 12k+ from PR3s on my RT. Most of my riding is commuting.
 

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I have an RT, so that would be different. Doing valve adjustments isn't difficult and the only pain in the ass is transmission and air filter changes because bodywork has to come off. $325 for a valve clearance check is one thing, but how much when they actually need adjustment? As far as tires go, I am getting 12k+ from PR3s on my RT. Most of my riding is commuting.
That was $325 for valve check and radiator flush. I know guys that have had both of these done by the dealer because the radiator flush on the K16 is a PITA.

So far, much like the K12, most people are rarely needing a valve adjust on the K16. On my K12, valves were never out of spec in 80,000 miles. I'm hearing similar stories so far on the k1600 forum from guys with 40,000+ miles that have never needed an adjust on their 16.

I can't say yet for myself, as I just got the bike in January and have 13,000 miles on her.

I do all wrenching myself - except I'll probably bite on my dealer doing the valves and radiator flush. Everything is (as compared to the LT) is a breeze to do. Getting to the air filter takes minutes, instead of an hour or more (on the LT, you had to remove all the Tupperware AND the gas tank). At least with the LT, when you had the tank off for the air filter it was easy to get to the fuel filter to replace, since you were there. No fuel filter on the K16.

Much less Tupperware on the K16 (plus you can leave the lower Tupperware on to do maintenance), and as a bonus: no transmission oil, since the K16 has a wet clutch.
 

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The one thing that would stop me from buying a 1600 is the maintenance. That 18K mile valve adjustment is pricey. Someone local told be it was something like $800 just for that. Is that right? I do all my own maintenance on an RT, but I wouldn't feel comfortable doing the valves on the 1600. The other thing is buying used. if it's an older model without the improved parts and it's out of warranty, that's more risk too.
So was the LT 18K service!:rolleyes:

Ain't none of them cheap!;)
 

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