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Discussion Starter #1
Well I am going to trade my 2006 FLHXi Street Glide with 11k miles on it on a 2005 K1200LT with 43k miles on it this afternoon.
I am a little nervous about the final drive failures and I have been told the FD on this one
has never been rebuilt and there are no know issues with it. The BMW dealer told me it
would be about $1,500.00 to rebuild it there. Soooo I will take my chances and take it the way it is and hope that with 43k and no issues it is not in the 4% failure group.
I may get a 1 year mechanical insurance policy to ease my mind.
I am 67 years old and drive accordingly but I am not sure driving style has anything to do with the FD failures.
I am trading because after 4 Harleys I want something more refined. I almost got another Goldwing and have a very good trade offer on a 2002 with CB and 23k miles but I ride "one up" and the wing seems bigger and bulkier than the LT. I had a wing for 11 years in the 80's and 90's and rode 2 up, was a great bike too.

The LT is smooooth, especially quiet and handles so sweeet? I fell in love with it on my first test ride.The LT is just a GREAT looking and riding bike and I hope I will be happy with it.

Well I will stop my rambling I am sure most are not interested in what I am doing anyway.

Great WEB site !
 

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Congratulations on the new ride, and be prepared to grin a lot. I wouldn't worry about the final drive a whole lot. There's a few members on here that will repair it for a lot less, if you send it to them. I got metal flakes in my oil change on mine. It hadn't failed yet, but I found a properly rebuilt one on here for $400. Remember to keep the front wheel straight before coming to a stop, or she might take a nap on ya. :) Enjoy your new ride....
 

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WillieC said:
...I am a little nervous about the final drive failures and I have been told the FD on this one has never been rebuilt and there are no know issues with it. The BMW dealer told me it would be about $1,500.00 to rebuild it there. Soooo I will take my chances and take it the way it is and hope that with 43k and no issues it is not in the 4% failure group.
I may get a 1 year mechanical insurance policy to ease my mind.
I am 67 years old and drive accordingly but I am not sure driving style has anything to do with the FD failures.....
Welcome.

2006 is past the years with the higher failure rate, I wouldn't worry about your FD.
If you can't help worrying a preemptive rebuild will ensure your FD is set up right. There are a few folks who can be trusted to do it right, I recommend a guy on this site who posts as Saddleman. I think he'll do it for less than a third of what your were quoted but you'll have to remove and ship the FD unless you were to ride to his place.

FD failures have nothing to do with how you ride it.

Congrats on your new bike, sounds like you've already figured out it is a really good bike.
 

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Welcome to the forum. Ask lots of questions, and learn to do your own basic maintenance.Look in your region for tech sessions , good times are had by all. If your drove ever fails, there are members who rebuild them for considerably less then the dealership and do a better job.
 

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Welcome and Congratulations. Don't be shy about rambling, post some pictures of her when you get her home. :wave
 

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Welcome
Sounds like you're getting a good ride...
Don't look back...
 

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Congrats on the new ride. Some days you're just gonna have to use your fingers to straighten out the big smile on your face to prevent cramping!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Almost Traded Harley on an LT today

Well I was NOT able to make the deal today ! :confused:
I took it for another ride before I was to sign the papers etc. I rode about 100 miles on a four lane with 65 speed limit and country roads at 55 MPH limit. I stopped for a lite lunch and then went back to the dealer. When I pulled in the lot the hydraulic center stand would not work and it had worked OK at my lunch stop. They looked at it and could not figure out what was wrong, left it sit for an hour and still no luck. I also noticed that the ABS brakes do not seem to be working. The brakes stop the bike but are very harsh and the rear squeals. The tech rode it and said the rear wheel locked up when he braked fairly quick. So I am not sure if that is correct or not. I also found out it is on consignment and they have to ask the seller if he wants to have it fixed etc. I asked them to see if he has proof of the 24k , 3*k and 4*k maintenance checks too. It has 44k miles on it and I need to be sure it was maintained properly.
I just do not want to get one with a lot of porblems and issues. But it did perform well and
the test ride was great. I sure can see how you can put mega miles on these great touring bikes.

Thanks for all the replies and helpful comments.
Will
 

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I ride with a mate who has a 2010 Ultra Glide Classic. We both tour 2-up (wives) and he has a healthy respect for the LT. I like the HD but it in no way can compare to the LT in the handling or braking departments. The 2 bikes are nothing similar. The LT has massive stopping power compared to the HD, and with the no-dive geometry of the Telelever it is an awsome stopper. I can't imagine a bike having this much braking power with conventional forks, it would want to turn inside-out I feel. As for handling, especially hard cornering on uneven surfaces, the LT is like on rails compared to the HD. Low speed manouverability, the HD is much better. In straight line acceleration the HD is not even close to being able to keep up. The 2 bikes are very diffent approaches to the same purpose - touring fully laden. Depends what you want, but for me,........... well.
 

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Re: Almost Traded Harley on an LT today

WillieC said:
When I pulled in the lot the hydraulic center stand would not work and it had worked OK at my lunch stop. They looked at it and could not figure out what was wrong, left it sit for an hour and still no luck.
The function of electric centerstand is controlled by a bunch of limit switches. Check first that your both brake switches (hand and foot brake) work properly (= your brake lights are not on when you are not touching the brakes) Also the gear must be in neutral, clutch not activated, reverse not on, side stand up (this I'm not sure of) etc.

As far as fuses are concerned, check fuses 6 and 7 in fuse box # 2 (both 4 amps). They are connected to EHCS unit.



WillieC said:
I also noticed that the ABS brakes do not seem to be working..
Are the ABS lights flashing? HOW are they flashing? Wig-wag or together, or not?

WillieC said:
The brakes stop the bike but are very harsh and the rear squeals. The tech rode it and said the rear wheel locked up when he braked fairly quick. So I am not sure if that is correct or not.
Buy THIS PART , and THESE PADS It only takes literally 20-30 minutes.

WillieC said:
I asked them to see if he has proof of the 24k , 3*k and 4*k maintenance checks too. It has 44k miles on it and I need to be sure it was maintained properly.
Any BMW dealer can give you that info with the VIN....
 

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On the center stand not working, make sure you do not have the brakes on when activating the hydraulic center stand - seems many on this forum have thought their stand wasn't working when it is simply they had the brakes on (ask me how I know....!). It's designed to work that way. I would personally prefer it to work with the brakes on or off, but maybe that's just me.
 

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A lot of great advice here, but Willie's not asking how to fix these mechanical problems. He mentioned the dealer did not know, at least upon initial inspection. Maybe they're incompetent? Maybe they weren't interested in giving out free troubleshooting, especially since the bike is on consignment.

The LT in question is an '05 model, but I believe the statement re: the FD still applies- not to much to worry about.

It also sounds like Willie is already sold as far as wanting an LT, so sales pitches could be spared. :p

not tryin' to piss in anybody's cheerios, just sayin'.

I am surprised a seller would allow someone to take a test ride for as many miles as Willie was able to. Maybe because it is on consignment; not their bike; not new?

Willie, from the information on this forum, as well as my experience working on automotive brake systems, the rear brakes squealing are somewhat normal, though annoying. One wants to consider the mechanics/physics involved- you have objects comprised of one material being compressed against a rapidly rotating object of another material, so a "side effect" such as the particular noise you mentioned shouldn't be cause for alarm. That being said, the squeal is annoying, and there are effective ways to minimize or even eliminate it. Perhaps you already know all this. :)

If you're willing to buy from a private seller, there's been some pretty decent deals lately on Ebay, but then you'd still have the hassle of trying to sell your HD. There's also been some decent prices for FDs, which is an "insurance policy" common here.

Good luck with your search.
BTW, as an HD owner, I like the way you phrased your reasoning for switching bikes. ;)
 

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rowie said:
On the center stand not working, make sure you do not have the brakes on when activating the hydraulic center stand - seems many on this forum have thought their stand wasn't working when it is simply they had the brakes on (ask me how I know....!). It's designed to work that way. I would personally prefer it to work with the brakes on or off, but maybe that's just me.
This happened to me when I first got my 06 ... I kept holding the brake while trying to run the center stand and it would just flash at me :D

Thought it broke already. That was a year ago ... Works great every time now.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hydraulic stand and ABS issues 2005 LT

I really appreciate all the replies and helpful suggestions.
The dealer that sold me the LT cannot figure out why the stand is not working all the time. Scheduled for Thursday to try to diagnose at dealer. I am also having the complete
24K service done so the valves are checked and ALL fluids/filters are replaced, even though it has 43k on it now I am not getting good feedback on what the previous (2nd owner) did as far as valve adjustments. He did have oil changes and FD oil changed but
no record of valves being checked back to the 24K check up. That does not mean it was not done somewhere but I have not been able to find any records of it being done. Better safe than sorry I guess. I am not sure if you get valve noise if they are out of spec or not but it is quiet and if I remember correctly quiet can be bad on some valve types.
We (the dealer and I) have tried the no brakes on, and everything but standing on one leg and patting our head while rubbing the stomach at the same time on the center stand issue.
The only strange thing I see is that the ABS is not passing the diag test with the key on
and not started yet phase (no brakes on) . It just flashes at about 1/2 sec interval and I can hear a relay type noise clicking I left it do this for about 30 seconds. Although I can hear the servo motors if I pull the brake lever or press foot brake. No burned out brake lights. The brakes seems to work fine but you can "lock them up" and skid the rear tire.
I think I read where you are supposed to try it on a gravel road to see if the ABS pulses etc. May also try a new battert but there is no indication the current one is bad and it was replaced in 09 so it has three years on it.
Anyway I am still reading the manuals and testing so I am sure I will resolve the issues eventually. I will try a road test later this afternoon to gather more facts.

Thanks again to all !
Very friendly and helpful site. Everyone seems willing to help you at the level of expertise you are at without trying to make you feel like a dummy. That is very nice.

Willie
 

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Willie, are you saying you went ahead and purchased the bike? :confused:

If so, best of luck to you. Regarding your rear brake locking up and skidding, that is typical of any brake system on any vehicle w/o ABS brakes. If applied hard and long enough, then the brakes will lock up. That was the whole idea for the introduction of ABS, to prevent brake lock up by minutely controlling the amount of pressure being applied to the brakes, thereby ensuring they would never actually lock up, at least for a time period long enough to enduce a skid. We're talking about hundreds of milliseconds.

So, the point is if your ABS is not functioning correctly, which is definitely what you're indicating w/ the ABS light and lack of a successful self test during startup, then the vehicle behaves as if it has no ABS, which is also designed into the design. :D

In the event of ABS failure, you want to continue to have "regular" braking. Now, if the rear brake is locking up w/ minimal application to the brake pedal, then I'd say you've also got a basic brake malfunction, but I didn't gather that from your original comments about the test drive of 100 miles.

These motorcycles are very expensive to maintain by a professional. ABS problems can quite easily cost you a couple of thousand dollars to have a dealer repair. With this in mind, I hope you got one hell of a deal if you've purchased this already.
 

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bikerj said:
Willie, from the information on this forum, as well as my experience working on automotive brake systems, the rear brakes squealing are somewhat normal, though annoying. One wants to consider the mechanics/physics involved- you have objects comprised of one material being compressed against a rapidly rotating object of another material, so a "side effect" such as the particular noise you mentioned shouldn't be cause for alarm. That being said, the squeal is annoying, and there are effective ways to minimize or even eliminate it. Perhaps you already know all this. :)
I have to disagree. The rear brake squeal is extremely rare with the aftermarket EBC rotor. My squealed and grinded terribly on all three of my LTs with the factory rotors on them. Some have been fine, mine sucked.

The stand is a microswitch issue, especially since your cruise will not pass muster. Figure out which switch is bad thru the cruise diagnostics, and I bet you fix your stand.....
 

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Cochinosucio said:
I have to disagree. The rear brake squeal is extremely rare with the aftermarket EBC rotor. My squealed and grinded terribly on all three of my LTs with the factory rotors on them. Some have been fine, mine sucked....
Brother, what are your disagreeing w/ ? :confused:

I mentioned the squeal is normal, although annoying; in other words, normal but noisy (w/ the factory rotors just as you elaborated). Perhaps annoying is a relative term

The "aftermarket EBC rotor" confirms my statement there are effective ways to either minimize or even eliminate the noise. Where's the disagreement?
 

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bikerj said:
the rear brakes squealing are somewhat normal, though annoying.
No disrespect intended Sir, I just disagree with that statement. Normal vs. defective The sqeal can be caused by sheared rivets, which is very common on the factory rotors (and not a good thing). My rear brakes have not sqealed once since EBC install... I see your point though...
 

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Willie,

Here is my cut.

Center stand has interlocks - brakes must be off, side stand must be up and the bike must be in neutral or you get a fast flash on the dash. Also there is an angle sensor (part of the alarm system) so if you have some lean on the bike it will not operate either.

Now if it only partially lifts the bike and drops back down she is a tad low on hydrualic oil. Easy fix.

On the brakes - This is a power assisted ABS system. When you turn on the key you need to have the brakes released to allow it to perform the first of two self tests. If you hold a brake during this period it will not complete the first part and you will have a steady General Warning light and a 4Hz flashing Brake Failure light.

When you release that held brake it will complete this test and go to a 1Hz flashing Brake Failure light and will continue flashing until you roll a few feet. This completes the second self test which is a rolling test of the wheel sensors. Once you get moving those lights should go out. At low speeds the brake system is a bit grouchy and clunky. Normal operation. If you continue to get flashing lights after the rolling test there is a fault in the system.

Most bikes go 30 - 50K before they need a valve adjustment and many don't need one until up in the 70K range. The valves do wear tight as it is valve seat errosion not valve train wear that must be corrected.
 
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