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Discussion Starter #1
I have found an electric centerstand that I plan on retrofitting on my 2000 lt this winter.
I may be looking for trouble, but since I think I managed to get all the related pieces, I would like to do a total retrofit, including controls.
Here is a list of what I have recuperated from the carcass I found:

Complete center stand sub-frame with sidestand and mounting bolts.
Relay wiring harness with motor connector &mounting plate & protective support
Sidestand switch with m/f conector and mounting plate
Centerstand magnetic open position detector with m/f connector & mounting bracket,
Electronic control module with both m/f connectors
Right hand control buttons with m/f connector

I hope I can wire this to do all its original functions but I need to get a wiring diagram of the system. I only have the basic maintenance CD and so I don't have the wiring diagram but would like to know if you guys can help me find one or at least confirm that the CS circuit is detailed in either the BMW CD or the Clymer manual so I can get one.

Looking at the Electronic module, there are more wires than I was hoping for but here is an incomplete list of what I think should be hooked up there

Going in:
keyed power (1)
Ground (1)
Actuator button (2)
CS open magnetic detector (2)
Sidestand (2)
neutral (2)
brakes (2-4?)
clutch (2?)
motor running from motronic (2?)
Going Out:
CS relay (2)
CS operating to motronic (2?)

Now you know why I need a wiring diagram. Sure It could be wired much simpler but that would not be a challenge and will not fill as much of the free time I have this winter!

Since I will be cancelling the B/C button function, I would like to know what wires I should be attaching to a new switch and would appreciate your suggestions on how to actuate it. I saw a post on using the cancel swich to flip auxiliary lights and might use that to actuate a relay to flip through the B/C but I might get tired of it changing when I want to keep it mostly on temperature. How do you guys flip through the information panel on the later models?
Someone else may have attempted this and might let me know if it is indeed possible or if I am missing any essential part (not including my brain!) to get this done. Looking forward to any help you can provide.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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13,903 Posts
This will be a bit of work as you need the I/K bus, TAA signal (speedo), Brake Light Relay, center stand limit (you have). Also the reverser controller. Here is an .xps file of the diagram.

This site does not support .xps so I had to make them .doc so they will not open from this page. Right click and "save target as" and down load them then change the extention back to .xps. You should be fine then.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info.
I can see hours of deciphering time in this but I should get it.
I will try to simulate it on the bench and I might have to try some tricks.
Some of the connections might be tricky. (I bus connector?, tacho?)
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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The Tacho signal is to tell the controller that the bike is not moving. The I/K bus is to send signals to the digital dash on the 05 + to show symbology for the stand and stand warnings.

You can probably just leave those undone or you may have to tie the Tacho to ground. The rest is pretty straight forward. I would leave the handle bar stuff alone and just add a new button for the stand activation.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The projet continues and is still a challenge, at least to me.
I put it on the bench and got some response, but no cigar.
When I push the actuator button, I get a 4 hz signal on the led but since I don't have a dashboard connection I can't see what the screen would tell me (lightning, hourglass or !), but even that would be incomplete info. I am using a current limiting power supply to avoid getting the dredded smoking of the electronics but I find that the control unit is rather forgiving as I have run multiple tests to the input wires (+12v, grd, foat) and always get the unit to at least respond consistently, unless I fried it the first time I started it up.
Here is the reactions I have found to date:
Small pulse on 12v led (burnt a no resistor led first) on startup then off​
Flashing 4 Hz if CS relay disconnected​
Flashes 4 hz if CS button depressed after 0.5 sec hesitation/test?​
Lights on continuously if CS at limit​

I have 4 wires that I cannot find any combination of that works (+12v, grd, open)
so I put a led on them to see how they behaved
I bus wire: strong led (12v?)
Taa wire no signal
Brake relay feed & reverse controler low led (5v or rapid pulses) just like side stand feed that I believe I can wire up properly (although the color codes on your diagram are inverted John)​

I was surprised to see that the unit does not use the neutral signal but rather gets its "not in gear" logic from the reverse module. If I read the above signals right, brake relay and reverse controller have a floating input just like the center stand but I can't get the unit to work to test and confirm.
So I am wondering if a used 05+ dashboard might make my day in providing a proper TAA and I-bus hookup?
If not I might just use the led output as a limit detector and hardwire the whole thing.
Alternatively I might use an automotive 12v PLC to copy the logic if anyone knows of a cheap sturdy unit I can get.
Any suggestions are welcome.
:confused:
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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13,903 Posts
The I bus is a data out to the digital dash. It drives the symbols you can't see. That left open should not affect operation.

The Taa is a signal in to the controller to say the bike is not moving. I would pull it low. Like wise with the brake relay input , pull it low for the test.

The LED should flash slowly (1Hz) as the CS is operating.

The wiring is different for the dashes so that will not work. One guy even had a later harness then was stuck as the ABS wiring and connector was different.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Still trying to make this work on the bench.
I got a Clymers and have been looking at the wiring diagrams. I see there that the same colored (blue/green) speedo wire that I will need on the EHCS controller goes to the cruise control, the radio, the flasher unit, and the trip computer. I am thinking that it is probably an analog signal (1-5V; 0-10V?) or a pulse that varies with speed, but it could be digital. I am still riding the bike so I won't be able to test that signal for a while so I thought maybe someone here can tell me what that signal is so I can try to simulate it on my bench.
Does any one know what kind of signal is sent from the speedo to these units?
Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I managed to take a reading on the bike and found that the blue/green wire signal is a pulse signal. It is high when stopped (10.5V on battery only, motor not running) and pulse varies with the speed of the rear wheel. It drops when the power is off but does not go to zero. I read around 6V with the voltmeter only and 2.5 volts when I put a 12v LED in parallel.
So now I know that I have to set that blue/greenwire to high on my test bench.

Next wire I am trying to check is the one coming from the reverse controller. It is listed as brown/violet and that is also the color of the neutral light. That also should be a 12v signal for the controller.

The next wire that I am not sure of is the green/yellow wire from the brake relay. That is also the color of the brake lamps power, so this wire should be put to ground through a load, as if wired through a bulb. I'll try that.

Finally the only wire outstanding is the white brown wire that connects the speedo to the EHCS contrl unit and tells it what error to show. Johns Z has suggested I leave this floating but I might need to get deeper into this if the unit won't work with the rest wired up as diagnosed above.
I'll probably get to try this this weekend and will post my results/questions then. If anyone sees some errors in my logic to date please chime in.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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I believe that is a white/violet and it is a data buss line from the controller to the dash unit. So I don't think it really matters what you do with it since it is an output.
 
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