BMW Luxury Touring Community banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
878 Posts
Mine has the same wear pattern. But then, the dealer had to replace the latch mechanism too. I am going to try to file down the latch hooks to see if it makes any difference.
 

·
IBR# 366
Joined
·
16,545 Posts
The pins are the same part as used on the K11 bikes, which are available separately. It's probably worth polishing out the latch hooks as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,399 Posts
It's in the FAQ, guys, originally posted by me years ago. The top case pins for the LT are not called out as separate parts in the K12LT parts book - but they ARE called out as separate parts in the K11LT parts book, and they're exactly the same pins. Couple bux each, as I recall, plus an additional 10 cents each if you also want the e-clips that hold the pin in place.

- Bob
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,795 Posts
Discussion Starter #6

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,399 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
878 Posts
Definitely polish the hooks. The latch mechanism will break long before the pins. If the pin breaks it's no big deal compared to the latch mechanism breaking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
348 Posts
Latch pins

CFELL, be sure and read-up on "broken trunk latch plates" and take preventive action ASAP! The same force that is wearing grooves in your pins will (soon) break your latch plate!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
837 Posts
latch wear

There is a ton of info regarding this problem. Best fix is to file/grind down the latch hooks a little at a time and try closing the lid. Eventually you will get to the point where the lid closes with little effort and with no wear and tear on the latch mech. Rick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,098 Posts
HarvRead said:
CFELL, be sure and read-up on "broken trunk latch plates" and take preventive action ASAP! The same force that is wearing grooves in your pins will (soon) break your latch plate!
Not necessarily. I've had half-sawn-though pins in my trunk for 100K miles, and I've not broken my trunk latch. In my case, they wore like that very early on during the life of the bike, then stopped wearing. I think it's more of a metalurgy problem than a friction problem. I think the best thing you can do for the longevity of your latch is to press down on the top of the trunk whenever you open or close it. That unloads almost all the pressure off the latch.

Regards,
-joel
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,752 Posts
For those that have filed their latches....

Do you have a picture/template you could share or give me/us some idea of about how much had to come off and where?

TIA...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
273 Posts
If you search the old forum for trunk latch you will find Mark Neblett's post with pictures on how much to grind off. I tried to copy and paste the link, no luck though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
I put my pins in the trusty electric drill and held a file and took them to half their size to eliminate pressure. Seems to work great and I would sooner replace a broken pin than the latch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
435 Posts
Dec. Channing:

I remove the locking mechanism and "C" clips and placed the latch lock hoods in a vice and ground down the inside according to Mark Neblett's instructions. Smooth closure and no more problems; makes closing the trunk lid easy and still waterproof. Used a dremmel tool with a grinding stone and took off about 1/8th inch.

Peace Bro...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,795 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Thanks, y'all... I'm considering these steps in the near future.

I have been "pressing" down on the topcase while closing and up until recently had kept them lubed...about 2 months ago when I did my 12k maintenance I forgot to lube them...

I'm going to lube them and polish them first.. then see if the dealer will replace the topcase =)...

Nah... I'm just gonna show them the part numbers and see if they will make it a "warranty" replacement..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,223 Posts
Refreshing an old thread here... just noticed ths problem on my latch pins yesterday, the right one was cut half through.
Added some lube and made hell of a difference closing the lid.
Guess I'd best find some spare pins now too.
Wish I'd noticed this before the warranty was out, though they might not have covered it as general "wear and tear".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
786 Posts
Just a thought, since our handle broke only a couple of months ago. Up till that point, I did not notice the right side pin was worn more than half way through. Once I noticed that, I then realized the L fingers were not symmetrically balanced between the pins and when closing the lid very slowly, the pins where hitting the L fingers before the lid was even down.

The handle action had been smooth as silk when we got the bike and the handle breaking was the LAST thing I would have expected.

Nonetheless, it broke at 48K miles.

I was very fortunate to get a used OEM handle. I took everything apart, and found it necessary to remove nearly 1/2" of metal combined from both sides of the L fingers combined, to get them to fit properly. It now works great.

I then went to the dealer and showed both the owner and a perspective buyer of an 09 LT the problem with the NEW LT locking mechanism. The dealer said it was not even an issue......and I assure you at some point that 09 handle or latching system is going to break.

I did find it necessary to put the L fingers in a vise to do the grinding, so it was necessary to take it off more than a couple of times to get the proper fit.

I also used stainless screws with a nylon lock nut to mount in the top three holes. Rivets just did not work for me.

Very pleased with the outcome. I do NOT recommend elongating the holes in the actuator bars to take the pressure off the latch pins, as suggested in another thread.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
534 Posts
Re: Part numbers!

cfell said:
Thanks Bob!
I used "search" and never got it to show.. my goof.

P/N 46-54-2-316-317 Pin $1.65 ea.
P/N 07-11-9-932-815 E-clip $0.10 ea.
Why can't you go to your friendly Ace Hardware man & get something similar? I assume a small bolt will be of a softer material & not last as long.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
461 Posts
My take on the latch problem is that the pin needs to roll each latch/unlatch cycle .So I made replacement pins out of 60-2 industrial roller chain master link pin , cut them to length with dremmel like cutoff wheel and turned an external C clip groove in each end , had to drill the top case pin holes a couple thousand larger . Installed and lubed ,still smooth and not a scratch in the pins . Did not grind the latch fingers as they are formed sheet metal that has probably been case hardened and if you grind through the case hardened surface it might start to wear out of shape .
Might be able to use the shanks of a twist drill to make the pins also as they are through hardened like roller chain link pins
I never push down on top case while closing it ,just make sure that the helmet or what ever is not holding things up ,that will also save the mirror hinge pins from having to be repaired like mine have been .

Bob G
99Lt
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top