i know about lt trunk latch.com. but at just over 350.00 i am interested in if or how some of you have repaired the problem. pictures would be appreciated
The fundamental problem with the OEM design is that the major load goes through a hook-shaped arm, then through the very thin fascia to get to the hinge location. THE REASON for this is that they completely screwed up the die-casting design!! The reason for the hook-shaped attribute is so they could have a retracting portion of the die. In order to fix it, they would have to toss out the VERY dies in which the part is cast and redesign those VERY EXPENSIVE DIES, from the ground, up!! My handle has a solid connection of material between the 2 major load points (which are only about 3/4" apart!! There you have it! And the zinc alloy used is junk, too....but with the correct design, the alloy would have worked fine....L_Rudy said:I just got on the trunk latch site, too, and noticed they had a kit to upgrade the handle before it breaks. It sounds like this is a likelihood because of the material used in the OEM fabrication. Do you all suggest taking care of it before the inevitability?
Well, this will be a winter project for me! I for one don't want to spend triple for something I can get taken care of before it happens. And, I really don't think there's anything else out there for this repair than Evan's FIBIT latch kit. Thanks LT Trunk Latch!hd_ryder1964 said:I bought Evan's "Fix it Before it Breaks" kit... not to bad to install, taking the top case off was the only way for my big fingers and bad eyes to get it installed. I also tethered my mirrors before they fell off and rolled down the highway.
The old adage about an ounce of prevention... learn from others mistakes, jump on the opportunity to keep the mishaps from happening. Some coin now can save some paper dollars later.
My latch is doing fine with the kit... would it have broke? Who knows !!