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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have added a couple of powered accessories to my LT and recently bought a battery post extension at the local auto parts store. This just doesn't seem like a good way to do things.

How to do you experienced wrenchers power your stuff without loading up the battery posts???

For example, I wired power to the stingray for my TomTom GPS unit, have the Battery Tender Jr., added wiring for heated suit controller, power for a hidden antenna, power for some trunk LED strips, have a PO PIAA lighting connection (?), plus an old XM satellite power source that I no longer use.

Seems to me that the only unit that should be connected directly to the battery posts is the Battery Tender. Everything else could be on some sort of switched power circuit (?) which is not hot all of the time. Haven't had any trouble with battery drain yet, but it does bother me.

How have you guys (gals) combined these connections through a switched relay of some sort? Are there off the shelf hobby boxes to house the terminal strips or whatever? I've looked at hobby stores and Radio Shack and find various relays, boxes and connection devices, but am not sure what makes for an elegant solution to this problem.

Thanks for any advice and pictures you can provide.
 

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i had a similar problem i got connector & ground blocks from (electrical connection)
not cheep but nice stuff. i mounted the stuff where the canister used to go. it.s all hidden and a clean look
now the down side you have to remove the topcase to access it. but i dont have to access it very often
 

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jaxbobg said:
I have added a couple of powered accessories to my LT and recently bought a battery post extension at the local auto parts store. This just doesn't seem like a good way to do things.

How to do you experienced wrenchers power your stuff without loading up the battery posts???

For example, I wired power to the stingray for my TomTom GPS unit, have the Battery Tender Jr., added wiring for heated suit controller, power for a hidden antenna, power for some trunk LED strips, have a PO PIAA lighting connection (?), plus an old XM satellite power source that I no longer use.

Seems to me that the only unit that should be connected directly to the battery posts is the Battery Tender. Everything else could be on some sort of switched power circuit (?) which is not hot all of the time. Haven't had any trouble with battery drain yet, but it does bother me.

How have you guys (gals) combined these connections through a switched relay of some sort? Are there off the shelf hobby boxes to house the terminal strips or whatever? I've looked at hobby stores and Radio Shack and find various relays, boxes and connection devices, but am not sure what makes for an elegant solution to this problem.

Thanks for any advice and pictures you can provide.
Read this thread then you can choose your poison.

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68372&highlight=fuse+block

Robert
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Wow! Thanks, Robert. I looked in the Hall of Wisdom, but missed this thread. Looks like there are some good options for me. The fuzeblock looks nice but is expensive (about $90) and I can't bring up the website. I looked up the HELLA relay and found one for under $6. Still haven't located a good waterproof enclosure with terminal connector strips. Will keep looking.

Kellenbenz recommended the Eastern Beaver website, looks like they have some good solutions as well.

Sorry if I rehashed an old question. Thanks to all for your advice.
 

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jaxbobg said:
Wow! Thanks, Robert. I looked in the Hall of Wisdom, but missed this thread. Looks like there are some good options for me. The fuzeblock looks nice but is expensive (about $90) and I can't bring up the website. I looked up the HELLA relay and found one for under $6. Still haven't located a good waterproof enclosure with terminal connector strips. Will keep looking.

Kellenbenz recommended the Eastern Beaver website, looks like they have some good solutions as well.

Sorry if I rehashed an old question. Thanks to all for your advice.
I did eventually buy the Eastern Beaver big fuse block. I am quite happy with it. I mounted it on top or the left sidecase under the frame with velcro. Easy enough to get to when needed.
Robert
 

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Blue Sea Systems fuse block. I use the 12 circuit version so each item has its own fuse and easier to diagnose. No, I do not have that many items powered by it, but the 6 was not enough......
 

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Good info. I was cursing real loud in the workshop after I installed a new battery tender.... there's like 6 or 7 rings on the positive terminal of the battery... was a ***** to get the bolt back into the battery. Fingers are to phat. :mad:

I'm gonna leave it for now but a separate terminal strip thingy sounds good. Adding a subwoofer amplifier in a few weeks so even more power rings on the terminals. Doh.
 

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I use the Fuzeblock. Has worked well for me. Click here A feature of the Fuzeblock is that you can power your accessories either always powered or switched. Other products may do the same, but I am only familiar with Fuzeblock.

As for the battery tender, I connected a Powerlet plug here to the tender, then plug into outlet near left footpeg. This outlet is always live. The outlet in the top case is switched.
 

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Munmi said:
As for the battery tender, I connected a Powerlet plug here to the tender, then plug into outlet near left footpeg. This outlet is always live. The outlet in the top case is switched.
Seems like you may have cut the SAE connector off of your Battery Tender charging lead since your link points to the plug only.

Using this SAE to Powerlet adapter you can leave the SAE plug intact and simply attach this powerlet plug, which can then be plugged into the lower left power outlet. I prefer this approach as it permits the flexibility to use the tender with other accessories. In my case, this includes a 25' SAE extension, a set of alligator clips for charging other batteries, etc.

Same result, different implementation.
 

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deputy5211 said:
Seems like you may have cut the SAE connector off of your Battery Tender charging lead since your link points to the plug only.

Using this SAE to Powerlet adapter you can leave the SAE plug intact and simply attach this powerlet plug, which can then be plugged into the lower left power outlet. I prefer this approach as it permits the flexibility to use the tender with other accessories.
Didn't cut off the SAE from tender. Made my own connector lead. I Purchased an SAE lead at the AutoValue in town and attached a Powerlet plug that I had in the box. I agree, didn't want to limit useability.
 

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I have installed the Fuzeblock and like the option to power accessories from a switched or always hot source. Agree it is a little expensive, but it is compact and works well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Blue Sea fuse blocks are carried by West Marine, which has a big store nearby (I'm in northeast FL). Going up there tomorrow morning to take a look at their selection.

The Eastern Beaver looks more elegant in design and is less cost than the Fuzeblock brand. Also, Fuzeblock appears to use mini fuses (where do you get those things?)

Since all of these fuse blocks have fuses in them, what do you do about the inline fuses that are already in the wiring supplied with the accessories? Now there are two fuses in the circuit! Can't take the fuse out of the accessory lead, that will interrupt the circuit. So what is the effect on the electrical circuit?? If one fuse blows, will the other one go also? What about a short, will both fuses blow - does it matter?

Mumble, mumble ... this electrical stuff makes me want to curl up somewhere and cry.l
 

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Two fuses in the same circuit will not hurt, but it can be confusing if both fuses blow at the same time. How often this happens, I cannot say, but I have seen it. Plus, you now may have to carry two different fuses (ATC and 5X20mm, for example)

I would take out the inline fuse, extending the wire if needed with a butt splice. The Marinco heat-shrink ones from West Marine are far superior to most others. And, you are going there anyway, so...
 

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jaxbobg said:
...Since all of these fuse blocks have fuses in them, what do you do about the inline fuses that are already in the wiring supplied with the accessories?...
Stick a high amperage fuse in the in-line spot, and protect the circuit with a proper size fuse in the fuse block.

For example, if you're dealing with a GPS connection that needs to be protected with a 2A fuse, put a 30A fuse in-line, and a 2A fuse in the block.

Tom
 

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Tony's suggestion is exactly what I did years ago for my tender. A big plus is that I can also use the tender on my Tiger which has an SAE connector! This is the most common battery tender connection on Bikes as a matter of fact (the SAE connector) so the versatility is a big plus when you go with the adapter plug.

John
deputy5211 said:
Seems like you may have cut the SAE connector off of your Battery Tender charging lead since your link points to the plug only.

Using this SAE to Powerlet adapter you can leave the SAE plug intact and simply attach this powerlet plug, which can then be plugged into the lower left power outlet. I prefer this approach as it permits the flexibility to use the tender with other accessories. In my case, this includes a 25' SAE extension, a set of alligator clips for charging other batteries, etc.

Same result, different implementation.
 

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Dragonwing said:
Awwww, screw all those high-dollar solutions to a simple problem! So long as you don't absolutely need your accessories to be keyed-hot only, then how about this little gem for only $18.00?

http://www.cyclenutz.com/BMW-K1200LT-Battery-Adapter-Kit_p_139.html

FYI: They work beautifully!
This cheap route appeals to me, and it looks simple! :D

Spenceer said:
www.qsradio.com has just the thing. and they work.
What exactly are we looking for? These folks have a boatload of stuff. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I don't see where the Blue Sea or Eastern Beaver fuse blocks provide a relay for switched power. In my original post I mentioned switched power to accessories to prevent battery drain, but I guess I wasn't too clear about what I want to achieve.

So far, I've pieced together this much of a solution: 1) buy a fuzeblock, which has built in connectors for running either switched or "always on" power, or 2) buy a Hella rely with the relay lead connected to the heated seat wire and then power the accessories with a weatherproof fuse block

Some of the other suggestions in this thread seem to leave the accessories "hot" all of the time, a potential battery drain if the bike its in the garage for a couple of weeks. The only "hot" lead I want is for the Battery Tender.
 
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