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Am wanting to buy a used K12LT as my wife wants to ride with me again. I have had two GW and a 2000LT in the past. Looked at a used 2002LT with 33k miles. I read and appreciate recent threads re what to look out for. The owner of the bike told me the only thing wrong is that the frame is cracked where the tip over wing brace mounts. He said dealers will not weld it because of liability. Can someone tell me all about this problem and what needs and can be done to rectify it. I saw one thread where bike with this problem was totalled. Otherwise I like the bike and price is(as you can imagine) reasonable. Would appreciate any wisdom here. Thanks--Carl
 

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I have heard on this forum, that it cannot be repaired and that similar bikes are totaled, but I don't understand why.

I've had aluminum boats that were welded back together without a problem.
 

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need to find someone with a tig welder.
 

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DanDiver said:
I have heard on this forum, that it cannot be repaired and that similar bikes are totaled, but I don't understand why.

I've had aluminum boats that were welded back together without a problem.
I agree. Most give up way too soon.

If the OP can find an FAA Certified Welder in his area - and it should not be hard to do - they know how to repair just about anything with the correct procedure and materials.

You'll pay a serious premium for an expert welder like this, but you also won't need to worry about a critical weld coming apart down the road... That same welder is highly unlikely to even attempt to repair it if he knows it can't be done safely.
 

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2011 R1200RT
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carlemd said:
Am wanting to buy a used K12LT as my wife wants to ride with me again. I have had two GW and a 2000LT in the past. Looked at a used 2002LT with 33k miles. I read and appreciate recent threads re what to look out for. The owner of the bike told me the only thing wrong is that the frame is cracked where the tip over wing brace mounts. He said dealers will not weld it because of liability. Can someone tell me all about this problem and what needs and can be done to rectify it. I saw one thread where bike with this problem was totalled. Otherwise I like the bike and price is(as you can imagine) reasonable. Would appreciate any wisdom here. Thanks--Carl
Unless you get a smoking deal you should probably pass, especially if this failure was reported to the insurance company; this may make the bike un-insurable, and possibly be a salvage title.
Now if everything is under the radar and you can get the bike repaired expertly you should probably delete this post... Just sayin'... ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I dont have a picture, nor have I actually seen the problem area. The bike has the tipover wings in place but the one in question is not real stable. Sounds like I best pass on this one. There are several other LTs around. Looking forward to owning one again. Enjoyed my last one but I traded it for a new GL1800 in 2004. My wife soon after decided she didnt want to ride any more, and I have only had sport bikes since then. Only thing I didnt like about my 2000 LT was how the center stand would grind on occasion when hitting a dip with the bike fully loaded. I guess the only way around that would be to remove the center stand. Probably could be jacked up on the skid plate to work on?
 

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carlemd said:
I dont have a picture, nor have I actually seen the problem area. The bike has the tipover wings in place but the one in question is not real stable. Sounds like I best pass on this one. There are several other LTs around. Looking forward to owning one again. Enjoyed my last one but I traded it for a new GL1800 in 2004. My wife soon after decided she didnt want to ride any more, and I have only had sport bikes since then. Only thing I didnt like about my 2000 LT was how the center stand would grind on occasion when hitting a dip with the bike fully loaded. I guess the only way around that would be to remove the center stand. Probably could be jacked up on the skid plate to work on?
Cutting down the rubber grommet will give you additional clearance at the center stand. You may also need stiffer springs depending on your physique and load on the bike. Removing the center stand would make it quite a challenge to remove the rear wheel if you have a tire issue while on the road.
 

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saddleman said:
I'm fixing one here for the same problem next month.
Kewl. If it can be done without pulling any major parts it's probably a no brainer.

All I know is Honda had some major issues with GL1800 frames CRACKING - and they issued a technical service bulletin (TSB) or similar how they could be repaired by laying them over on their sides and welding away.

Man, I love people that can FIX things. What a dying art. :thumb:
 

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zippy_gg said:
Cutting down the rubber grommet will give you additional clearance at the center stand. You may also need stiffer springs depending on your physique and load on the bike. Removing the center stand would make it quite a challenge to remove the rear wheel if you have a tire issue while on the road.
Excellent advice, but what else would you expect from a guy with a hot wife? ;)

Hyperpro springs cover a multitude of sins at a bargain price. Besides installing HID on low beam they are by far the best "bang for the buck" mod an LT owner can do.

There is nothing in the world like riding an 800 lb. "sport" bike. Kinda' like the K1600GT! :D
 

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carlemd said:
I dont have a picture, nor have I actually seen the problem area. The bike has the tipover wings in place but the one in question is not real stable. Sounds like I best pass on this one. There are several other LTs around. Looking forward to owning one again. Enjoyed my last one but I traded it for a new GL1800 in 2004. My wife soon after decided she didnt want to ride any more, and I have only had sport bikes since then. Only thing I didnt like about my 2000 LT was how the center stand would grind on occasion when hitting a dip with the bike fully loaded. I guess the only way around that would be to remove the center stand. Probably could be jacked up on the skid plate to work on?
If I didn't ride two up frequently I would have a brand spankin' new RT in a heartbeat. Talk about refined... BMW has definitely reached a pinnacle with this bike - and yet - it is SO overlooked with all the hype about the 6.
 

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The part of the frame that breaks on a hard hit to the side is the small "tabs" on the bottom edge of the frame that the tip over brackets fasten to.

It is true that BMW will not allow dealers to repair this, and I had an LT with the broken tab on one side, should have been totaled, but the insurance adjuster told the dealer to replace the frame. along with other parts replace due to the accident, the total the insurance company paid was a little over $16,000!

However, regardless of BMW's stance on this, there would be no reason NOT to weld the tabs back on! They have absolutely NO affect on the frame itself, and do not contribute any strength at all to the frame. The ONLY purpose of the tabs is to support the tip over wings.

If I got hold of an LT with this being the only real problem with it, I would get the tab welded back on with no concern at all.

Here is a picture of the replaced frame, with the broken tabs marked. You can see that the small tabs could easily be welded back on without affecting the really thick frame section at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Excellent, dshealey. Your reply is most helpful. Now I know that it is not a significant structural problem. Could be a big time bargaining chip, no?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thinking about that picture-those "tabs" would seem like a pretty flimsy support for something that must protect a 850lb monster in event of a tipover, no?
 

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dshealey said:
The part of the frame that breaks on a hard hit to the side is the small "tabs" on the bottom edge of the frame that the tip over brackets fasten to.

It is true that BMW will not allow dealers to repair this, and I had an LT with the broken tab on one side, should have been totaled, but the insurance adjuster told the dealer to replace the frame. along with other parts replace due to the accident, the total the insurance company paid was a little over $16,000!

However, regardless of BMW's stance on this, there would be no reason NOT to weld the tabs back on! They have absolutely NO affect on the frame itself, and do not contribute any strength at all to the frame. The ONLY purpose of the tabs is to support the tip over wings.

If I got hold of an LT with this being the only real problem with it, I would get the tab welded back on with no concern at all.

Logic??
Let me see if I got this right. BMW designs a bike with tip over wings (i.e. engine guards) basically to protect your investment. And the dealer makes that quite clear by not attempting any fixes and insurances for the most part totals the machine.
But you maintain if a weld is all it needs you would get it. Devil's advocate : accident or bike falls over and rider or bike suffers damages caused by the welds failing and the insurance declines coverage/reimbursement where does that leave the rider. Keep in mind the first time broken serial number and policy info are recorded. If it was me I would shop around for another bike.
ride safe :bmw:
 

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The one I'm welding fell over on the right side while on the side stand. The rider had parked it with the J-Pegs in the out position & wind blew the bike over.

Just to be on the safe side I remove the computer & unhook all the sensors & batt. before any welding is done. I won't take any chances on someone else's bike.
 

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Does anyone have a picture of the frame with the tabs in place?

This is the first time I have seen what so many talk about and I'm finally understanding what the so called tabs are all about. Nice to see what all of the talk was about.


Thanks Dave.
 

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saddleman said:
......Just to be on the safe side I remove the computer & unhook all the sensors & batt. before any welding is done.....
I've been following this thread with interest. Not having understood exactly what was broken, David S's picture make it clear to me that welding this is perfectly safe to do.

I'd have it welded by an experienced weldor, if not a weldor certified in TIG welding aluminum, not just someone with a TIG welder. That sort of repair could also be done with a stick welder if using the right polarity, current, and rod. TIG is a little easier and cleaner but it can be done with "stick" welding. Aluminum arc rod # is 4043, DC reverse polarity. What ever method used, a knowledgeable weldor is a good idea. From the picture of the broken frame it is evident that there is plenty of thickness to the frame in the area of what would be a small weld, however damage to the base material resulting in weakening of the frame if done by an inept weldor.

And Dave's (aka saddleman) comment about isolating all the bike's electronic before applying the welding current is excellent advice. I would be quite possible to have those tabs nicely welded on, and a bike with a bunch of very expensive fried electronics.
 
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