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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a '99 LT with 36k miles. I purchased it just this last May. I have an oil leak on the bottom of the timing case cover right at the seam. It drips a few drops of oil every day. It drips from the 2nd and 3rd allen head bolts in from the left edge of the cover. I've wiped it off several times and this is where the leak re-appears.

The BMW parts diagram blow-ups do not show any kind of gasket for the timing case cover. Is there one? Is there a lot of oil circulating under the cover when the engine is running? If not, could it be coming from the sprocket shaft? That's #7 in the diagram on the left.

It looks like a bit of a job to get that cover off. I think it requires removing the radiators.

The leak is not originating from the oil pump/water/pump area.

Any suggestions on how to proceed would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance.

Bruce H, in Cincinnati
 

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sounds like your front crank seal is leaking. And yep, you'd have to remove the radiators, the tank, and the right crank case cover. Carefully driving in a new seal, I had to use an appropriately sized giant socket. Couldn't tell you what size socket but someone here probably will.
 

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sounds like your front crank seal is leaking. And yep, you'd have to remove the radiators, the tank, and the right crank case cover. Carefully driving in a new seal, I had to use an appropriately sized giant socket. Couldn't tell you what size socket but someone here probably will.
I have not had the timing cover off yet to see how that seal interfaces and with what but it also could just be a cover leak. There is most definitely oil behind the cover and what you are describing to me sounds like the cover ls leaking. That is sealed with sealer and no gasket. I assume you have put a torque wrench on the cover bolts to make sure none of them are lose if you can get to them.
 

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I have not had the timing cover off yet to see how that seal interfaces and with what but it also could just be a cover leak. There is most definitely oil behind the cover and what you are describing to me sounds like the cover ls leaking. That is sealed with sealer and no gasket. I assume you have put a torque wrench on the cover bolts to make sure none of them are lose if you can get to them.
Yeah, that is a wet area, so it does make more sense than what I just posted. But if you get in there for the cover seal, it makes sense to replace the guide rails and thruster. They're due at 36k.
 

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Yeah, that is a wet area, so it does make more sense than what I just posted. But if you get in there for the cover seal, it makes sense to replace the guide rails and thruster. They're due at 36k.
Yeah, I am one of those types of people, if I am in there and it doesn't cost a fortune, just do it and not worry about it for awhile.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you all for your suggestions. That makes sense to me. I'll do the guide rails and thruster too while I'm at it and give a short report when I'm done. Yes, the book does say to do those at 36K. I missed that. Thanks!!

I had great results with Permatex One Minute Black RTV gasket compund fixing a stubborn oil leak on the tranny pan of my Town and Country. No waiting for cure, just torque and go. Perfect for situations where it can re-wet itself quickly and wash away your RTV while you are waiting for it to cure! I will use that on the LT. It comes in a little pressurized bottle. Got it at Advance Auto.

Can you re-use the seal under the right side crank cover?

Thanks again for your help gentlemen. This is a valuable forum.
 

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Thank you all for your suggestions. That makes sense to me. I'll do the guide rails and thruster too while I'm at it and give a short report when I'm done. Yes, the book does say to do those at 36K. I missed that. Thanks!!

I had great results with Permatex One Minute Black RTV gasket compund fixing a stubborn oil leak on the tranny pan of my Town and Country. No waiting for cure, just torque and go. Perfect for situations where it can re-wet itself quickly and wash away your RTV while you are waiting for it to cure! I will use that on the LT. It comes in a little pressurized bottle. Got it at Advance Auto.

Can you re-use the seal under the right side crank cover?

Thanks again for your help gentlemen. This is a valuable forum.
You can reuse the left and right cover gaskets
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Would you know if the timing chain has to come off to replace the chain tensioning rail lining and chain guide rail? It looks like it does need to come off from studying the shop manual, but the manual only describes installation, not the replacement of the wear items.

The shop manual says I need BMW Tool No. 11 3 700 ($123.00) which is a cam alignment jig, which I assume keeps the cams from turning when the timing chain is off.

Has anyone replaced these wear parts and be able to offer a few tips?

Thanks so much.
 

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I have an oil leak on the bottom of the timing case cover right at the seam. It drips a few drops of oil every day. It drips from the 2nd and 3rd allen head bolts in from the left edge of the cover.
Same situation on my 1200GT... same engine. The leak originated at the point where the cylinder head gasket meets the timing chain cover (see pics). With the cover off I cleaned the area thoroughly and applied JB Weld to the void caused by the head gasket and using a razor blade leveled the epoxy.

Applied RTV to the timing chain cover flange... no gasket. No leaks for several years now...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It appears that my leak is on the left lower side of the cover so I don't think I need the JB Weld, but I will look at that void when re-assembling. Careful prep and cleaning and then some RTV should do the trick, but I need a little help on the procedure for replacing the chain tensioner wear items which I will replace while I am in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The bike's left? I don't see anything there but the timing cover. Hmm
 

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Try this. Of course, the procedure doesn't tell you to use several zipties on the chain/sprocket to maintain the sprocket position.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
What publication is that from? Very cool.

It tells you to remove the cam chain sprockets and the chain. Are you saying that you've done this procedure with the sprockets and chain left in the bike?

Thanks want2tour.
 

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What publication is that from? Very cool.

It tells you to remove the cam chain sprockets and the chain. Are you saying that you've done this procedure with the sprockets and chain left in the bike?

Thanks want2tour.
if memory serves i think i had to remove them. Pretty sure i had to remove as the instructions state. Getting hard to remember. Only done it once before. Maybe someone here will chime in or you could PM jzeiler. He'll know.
 

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JZ will know for sure but I think you can just tie wrap the chain at the crank so it can't move and also to the two sprockets and then take them off the cams as you would for a bucket swap but I haven't had to do this yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just found this post on the i-bmw forum at Timing chain guide replacement - I-BMW.com

"Probably old thread this but thought i'd share some observations.
I did replace the tensioner guide (liner) as required on 60 000 km. Could not see any noticeable wear on the liner. The second time I did it after riding 80 000 km more. This time I could see wear on the liner = time to change it for me.

Not to big a job actually but everything takes time. The spare liner part comes as a kit in does not cost al that much. Put Cyl #1 on TDC with all marks in place (triangles on cam gears, pin on OT mark on camshaft). Strap the chain fast on the cam gears so it won't change position. Fairly straight forward."
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So it looks like one can replace the wear items that come in the BMW liner kit (which I already knew about and have ordered) without removing the chain and sprockets. I will give that a try first. They also do not mention removing the crankcase cover. That would save a lot of time.
 

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Most of us never had the need to replace the chain guide at the "recommended" interval. If performing maintenance on high mileage then go ahead.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
That is just what I am gathering from all my reading. Thank you for more confirmation. I will just reseal the timing cover for now and inspect the chain guide and rail in a few more years. It only has 36k on it and I don't ride all that much. Maybe 5K a year. Hopefully I will ride more in years to come!

I just ordered the Clymer Repair Manual for the LT. It looks very helpful too. Is that what a lot of you all use? I have the BMW shop manual for the '99 LT and Paul Sayegh's Repair DVD's. I have read that the Clymer Manual is more detailed and helpful than the official shop manual. Thanks again all for your input folks. Sorry if I've been a PITA with all my questions. I'm still learning.

I try to search old posts first before asking but this topic doesn't appear to have been covered much on this site. I see more timing chain and cover related articles on the i-BMW K1200RS forum and I think it is the same engine for the most part.

Cheers.
 

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That is just what I am gathering from all my reading. Thank you for more confirmation. I will just reseal the timing cover for now and inspect the chain guide and rail in a few more years. It only has 36k on it and I don't ride all that much. Maybe 5K a year. Hopefully I will ride more in years to come!

I just ordered the Clymer Repair Manual for the LT. It looks very helpful too. Is that what a lot of you all use? I have the BMW shop manual for the '99 LT and Paul Sayegh's Repair DVD's. I have read that the Clymer Manual is more detailed and helpful than the official shop manual. Thanks again all for your input folks. Sorry if I've been a PITA with all my questions. I'm still learning.

I try to search old posts first before asking but this topic doesn't appear to have been covered much on this site. I see more timing chain and cover related articles on the i-BMW K1200RS forum and I think it is the same engine for the most part.

Cheers.
Clymer is a good book to have and most of us probably do along with the other resources you mentioned. Just check some of the tables depending on the revision of the printing. Some of the tables in my book listed a proper NM torque but the Ft Lb number for a few was incorrect. I think that particular error was corrected in a later printing though. Just do the math, cross check and make sure you don't snap off bolts. Don't worry about the questions, we love them and the knowledge base here for the LT is huge so ask away if a search doesn't return what you need to know.

Welcome to the forum Bruce.
 

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