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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, long time no hear...
I encountered some (self caused) issues with my DWA5 (the central lock/alarm/immobilizer unit). It seems to be toasted. I know the reason but if this project works I will report it thoroughly later on my blog My Good Old LT
My idea goes as follows:

The only function I need from the old DWA5 is the central lock feature. The alarm and immobilizer are secondary as I have my separate GPS-tracker with remote shutdown (killing fuel pump grounding) and LT's are not on the top list of the bike thieves anyway...
Has anyone replaced just the central locking "brain unit" with an aftermarket one? As I see it the solenoids in the locks just need a 12 V pulse which any of the aftermarket central lock systems would do.
Or do I see it wrong...?

Regards
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Yes it would you just need a reversible 12 volt output for the solenoids (+ - for lock and - + for unlock on the wires to the solenoid). There was a member here (Hawkdriver33) that was also working on just that but so far all he done is produce a plug to bypass the alarm.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes it would you just need a reversible 12 volt output for the solenoids (+ - for lock and - + for unlock on the wires to the solenoid). There was a member here (Hawkdriver33) that was also working on just that but so far all he done is produce a plug to bypass the alarm.
Hi John, I just found a 25 euro central lock control unit with two fobs. I’m sure I can hook it up. I will post a report once I get it done.
 

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For those that have my radio module, I could probably do central locking switching from the SCRP button.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
For those that have my radio module, I could probably do central locking switching from the SCRP button.
The unit I have ordered has the attached instructions. I intend to use the last schematics "Connection main unit directly to servomotors for locking, unlocking" as this seems to be the way LT:s locks work.
The English in the manual seems to be a clumsy translation but I guess you natives can figure it out ;-)
Regards
 

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The unit I have ordered has the attached instructions. I intend to use the last schematics "Connection main unit directly to servomotors for locking, unlocking" as this seems to be the way LT:s locks work.
The English in the manual seems to be a clumsy translation but I guess you natives can figure it out ;-)
Regards
I would think that you are right, that is they way that Albert Boontjes on the LT Facebook forums told me that they work.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi John, I just found a 25 euro central lock control unit with two fobs. I’m sure I can hook it up. I will post a report once I get it done.
Yes it would you just need a reversible 12 volt output for the solenoids (+ - for lock and - + for unlock on the wires to the solenoid). There was a member here (Hawkdriver33) that was also working on just that but so far all he done is produce a plug to bypass the alarm.
Hi John, I wonder would there be a single wire to feed power for two seconds just to get all the turn signals flashing when the new central lock devise is activated. The unit I have ordered is spec'd in my reply to "scimitar" and as you can see, there is one wire (orange) that is used for feeding power to the flashers. I'm looking at the wires nr 7 (green) or 4 (yellow/violet) of the trashed DWA5 12-pin connector...
 

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It looks like pin 4 (yellow/violet) is tied to the hazard flasher button that applies a ground to make them flash, signal name WBT. I am not sure what pin 7 (blue/black/yellow) does, signal WBS. Pin 2 is the green and powers the flasher.
 

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Very interested in this as I would like to remove the alarm from the bike, but really like the central locking feature. If this works out I'll be pursuing this as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It looks like pin 4 (yellow/violet) is tied to the hazard flasher button that applies a ground to make them flash, signal name WBT. I am not sure what pin 7 (blue/black/yellow) does, signal WBS. Pin 2 is the green and powers the flasher.
I did some experimenting while waiting for the new unit to arrive. When I have the ignition on I get the four-way flashers on in two ways:
1. If I ground (momentarily) the connector 4 the flashers start and they keep going until I ground the connector again. Then they stop.
2. If I ground connector 7 the flashers are on as long as keep it grounded.
I was happy about this until I realized the fact:
The bike does NOT normally have the ignition on when it is sitting and waiting for the remote command from the fob!
I don’t remember any more but do the turn signals flash with the original BMW unit? If no, then it will be difficult to reproduce...
If yes, then there is still some hope!

BTW I just got SMS from the post office and my new gadget has arrived! I have to rush and collect it and see how it looks live...
 

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Yes they do when the key is off and you hit the alarm. Could have something to do with the alarm providing power via pin 2. If so you can add a diode to have your new unit also apply power to just pin 2 and not to pins 10 and 6 as in the bypass ( or maybe it does not need to be isolated except for pin 6 which is switched power).
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
OK guys, the project is finished and documented.
Also thanks to John Z for his valuable hints for getting the 4- way flashing to work. I had to use one extra relay just to be on the safe side since the new unit was only feeding +12V out as flashing signal and I could not feed that to the OEM flasher unit.
But now the central locking works and I bet the range of the fob will be greatly improved compared to the original one.
 

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OK guys, the project is finished and documented.
Also thanks to John Z for his valuable hints for getting the 4- way flashing to work. I had to use one extra relay just to be on the safe side since the new unit was only feeding +12V out as flashing signal and I could not feed that to the OEM flasher unit.
But now the central locking works and I bet the range of the fob will be greatly improved compared to the original one.
This sounds great, but I the link to the document isn't working for me.
 

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He ran into an issue so he will fix it and then relist the page.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
This sounds great, but I the link to the document isn't working for me.
Yes, as John already mentioned I had to change the connections in order to have it working properly. At first the issue was that the turn signals would work even with the ignition key off. But at the same time there was the danger that there will be some microamperage pulled through two units (the Bene central lock system and bike flasher unit) when bike is sitting and at some point it would no longer start.
I figured a way to fix this but then this resulted to another problem. My turn signals would not work at all when the ignition was on! Now that was more serious! Again we dis some brainstorming with John and finally I had to add a diode plus one more relay in the system. Now it finally works as supposed.
The schematics on my blog is already updated to the latest version (April 12th) but I still have to update some of the text plus add a couple of pictures to explain the second relay plus the diode installation.
So if you are going to attack your bike with the same procedure, please wait a day or two and my blog will be all updated.

Regards
 
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Yes, as John already mentioned I had to change the connections in order to have it working properly. At first the issue was that the turn signals would work even with the ignition key off. But at the same time there was the danger that there will be some microamperage pulled through two units (the Bene central lock system and bike flasher unit) when bike is sitting and at some point it would no longer start.
I figured a way to fix this but then this resulted to another problem. My turn signals would not work at all when the ignition was on! Now that was more serious! Again we dis some brainstorming with John and finally I had to add a diode plus one more relay in the system. Now it finally works as supposed.
The schematics on my blog is already updated to the latest version (April 12th) but I still have to update some of the text plus add a couple of pictures to explain the second relay plus the diode installation.
So if you are going to attack your bike with the same procedure, please wait a day or two and my blog will be all updated.

Regards
That's great to hear, this sounds like a really good solution to the alarm problem and keeping the central locking feature. I really like this feature, but always worry that the alarm system will leave me stranded somewhere, so I will definitely be performing this modification one all the documents have been published. Thanks for taking the time to document it. And thanks to JZ, as usual!
 
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