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Discussion Starter #1
Finally got the bike back together and did and took it for a ride after replacing my throttle cable. Good thing I replaced it, as the old one was down to about one strand. How it got that way, I don't know. The new one is so much better. The backfiring and missing when I let off the throttle is gone, plus the idle has returned to where it should be, at about 1K and seems to be holding steady where it was moving before between 1.5K And of course the throttle is much easier to twist without killing my wrist. Hopefully I have everything adjusted right, but it seems to work fine.
 

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Way to go. Now expect your gas mileage to go down, because you'll be able to make the big girl get along a little quicker with the easier cables. Please DAMHIK. :D
 

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2002redrider said:
How big of a deal is it to replace the throttle cable? My 2000 is very stiff.
I think the procedure is in the HoW. Once you have stripped the tupperware, bar covers, stingray, tank, and changed the grip's cable connections, it won't take someone who has done the procedure long to remove the old cables, route the new ones, and make the connection to the throttle body. I had help with mine last fall. I had everything ready for the cables to be removed and new ones routed before John arrived to do the swap. I'd say within 2 hours, everything was back together and we were going for a test ride.

You will have to cut a rectangle in the lower bar cover for the cables to route into. There are pictures posted showing where the hole should be cut. There are also posts detailing the parts you will need. I don't remember the cost.
 

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Removing the tank is not needed! Just the left tupperware, handlebar covers, and a few screws for the radiator fan.

If it's very stiff it's probably not too far from snapping, better replace it before you find yourself taking the bus :)
 

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I would be very interested in knowing what sort of maintenance the folks with this problem did/do on their cables. I ask only because I'm not too sure I'm having any problems with the stock units. I lube all the cables on all my bikes with a penetrating lubricant, and all my clutch cables (not on the BMW), and throttle cables work seemingly well. Cables notoriouly wear from the inside out, usually due to water contamination that penetrates into the cable causing rust and then breakage. Penetrating oils flush that out, and lubricate. So, what is the normal routine for you guys with problems?
 

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fpmlt said:
I would be very interested in knowing what sort of maintenance the folks with this problem did/do on their cables. I ask only because I'm not too sure I'm having any problems with the stock units. I lube all the cables on all my bikes with a penetrating lubricant, and all my clutch cables (not on the BMW), and throttle cables work seemingly well. Cables notoriouly wear from the inside out, usually due to water contamination that penetrates into the cable causing rust and then breakage. Penetrating oils flush that out, and lubricate. So, what is the normal routine for you guys with problems?
The problem with the stock BMW cables is they get very stiff and then snap. It's really more of a design flaw than a maintainence issue. BMW fixed the cables on 2005+ (maybe earlier models), so it's not an issue on the newer bikes.
 

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This is a maintenance issue. I bought my 02 LT last year in October. I rode it for a month and then I turned the throttle on my neighbor's Harley. That's when I realized that the throttle on my bike was incredibly stiff. I took apart the cables up at the handle bar and proceded to drip light gear oil onto the cable and work it down into the sheath. After working 4-5 drops in, I was able to use some pliers to pull the cables up and down in the sheath. Another 4-5 drops and I was able to use my fingers to pull the cables in the sheath. I put it all back together and the first time that I turned the throttle, I nearly pulled a wheely....it felt like the bike was 200lbs lighter and had 100 more horses in the engine.

It is so nice to ride when you are not fighting with the bike. It's nearly June and the cables still feel loose. I'm going to oil the cables every winter until I see some wear. Some people on the forum will say that you can't do it because it causes the lining in the sheath to breakdown and that will void the warranty....yeah, like their still under warranty. If you can oil the cables and get them to work, I say, do it. Save your money until you need to do the upgrade or when you have the bike torn open for a major service. You will be amazed at the difference a few drops of oil can make on the cables.
 

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I took apart the cables up at the handle bar and proceded to drip light gear oil onto the cable and work it down into the sheath

Here in, I believe, is where the problems start. The gear oil will only coat the outside of the stranded cable. Once water gets in between the strands, it starts to rust, and break, from the inside. You'll need to use an oil that will penetrate the strands to stop the moisture and rust.
 

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Thanks for the overvier on cable replacement. I did check first in HoW but couldn't find it. Will try again.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
fpmlt said:
I took apart the cables up at the handle bar and proceded to drip light gear oil onto the cable and work it down into the sheath

Here in, I believe, is where the problems start. The gear oil will only coat the outside of the stranded cable. Once water gets in between the strands, it starts to rust, and break, from the inside. You'll need to use an oil that will penetrate the strands to stop the moisture and rust.
DO NOT use any lubricant on the cables themselves. The inside of the cables are lined with teflon. Using lubricant, especially liquid ones will cause attract dirt that will gum up the cables, making them worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
johnnyjo said:
tonyn1 what makes the bike backfire and miss when the trottle cable are bad.Thanks in advance
Not sure. Maybe the throttle position sensor was not going back to where it should have been. All I know is it's working much better now.
 

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I too just finished this task on a '02. And yes, the mileage has gone down because I can now use and ENJOY the throttle. Seeing the design of the original throttle end and the crimp in the shield from a wire tie at a place high between the fork tubes leads me to agree with those who advise against trying to fix the problem with any type of lubricant.
Note that if you decide to follow the procedure in the manual and remove the tank and the air box: Make sure that the throttle valves did not pull out of the connection to the block as you pulled off the air box.
And, if the throttle valves did pull out and you unplugged the throttle position sensor in the process of fixing that, MAKE SURE YOU PLUG IT BACK IN.
And, if it runs terribly rough and smokes like an insecticide fogger from the '60's, make sure that the throttle position sensor is plugged in.
And if you can't figure it our and live two hours from a BMW dealer and load the beast onto a trailer and haul it in, be prepared to smile while you eat lots of crow.

It's a wonderful World
 

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I don't agree it is a maintenance issue - my 03 just had it 40k service
cables were checked and throttle was smooth. In fact throttle was smooth right up to the point it broke 7k later. When fixed the dealer updated the cable set-up because theis was a know problem.

cealbrecht said:
This is a maintenance issue. I bought my 02 LT last year in October. I rode it for a month and then I turned the throttle on my neighbor's Harley. That's when I realized that the throttle on my bike was incredibly stiff. I took apart the cables up at the handle bar and proceded to drip light gear oil onto the cable and work it down into the sheath. After working 4-5 drops in, I was able to use some pliers to pull the cables up and down in the sheath. Another 4-5 drops and I was able to use my fingers to pull the cables in the sheath. I put it all back together and the first time that I turned the throttle, I nearly pulled a wheely....it felt like the bike was 200lbs lighter and had 100 more horses in the engine.

It is so nice to ride when you are not fighting with the bike. It's nearly June and the cables still feel loose. I'm going to oil the cables every winter until I see some wear. Some people on the forum will say that you can't do it because it causes the lining in the sheath to breakdown and that will void the warranty....yeah, like their still under warranty. If you can oil the cables and get them to work, I say, do it. Save your money until you need to do the upgrade or when you have the bike torn open for a major service. You will be amazed at the difference a few drops of oil can make on the cables.
 

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I just replaced my cables this weekend and by just pulling the airbox out was enough for me. Granted, those two airbox claps suck to put back on-
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sunshine said:
I just replaced my cables this weekend and by just pulling the airbox out was enough for me. Granted, those two airbox claps suck to put back on-
Too bad, but you didn't need to pull the airbox.
 

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I replaced my throttle cables on my 2000 LT. Upgraded to the new cables. Wasn't as hard as some make it out to be. Just takes time and patience.

I didn't need to remove the airbox, fuel rail, any of that. Just the left side panel, the air-duct thingy. Long needle nose hooked the cables in with patience.

Now the bike won't start!?!?! Started fine before I embarked on this. I turn the key on. Lights all come on. Headlight is bright. Fuel pump runs. Normal whirring and buzzing sounds. Then I hit the starter button and all I hear is a faint thud or clunk and then nothing.

Bike is in neutral. I've tried with bike in neutral, clutch pulled in, clutch out, side stand up, side stand down, and every permutation there of. Kill switch is on.

I wanted to do this throttle cable replacement myself so I could save $$$ vs. going to the dealer. However now I'm stumped with this no-start problem. I'm worried a dealer trip is going to be required.

I still have the lower left side body panel off (the silver lower). Any microswitches or anything I'm missing or something like that. What might I have unplugged that I forgot to plug back in?
 

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motoexplorer said:
I replaced my throttle cables on my 2000 LT. Upgraded to the new cables. Wasn't as hard as some make it out to be. Just takes time and patience.

I didn't need to remove the airbox, fuel rail, any of that. Just the left side panel, the air-duct thingy. Long needle nose hooked the cables in with patience.

Now the bike won't start!?!?! Started fine before I embarked on this. I turn the key on. Lights all come on. Headlight is bright. Fuel pump runs. Normal whirring and buzzing sounds. Then I hit the starter button and all I hear is a faint thud or clunk and then nothing.

Bike is in neutral. I've tried with bike in neutral, clutch pulled in, clutch out, side stand up, side stand down, and every permutation there of. Kill switch is on.

I wanted to do this throttle cable replacement myself so I could save $$$ vs. going to the dealer. However now I'm stumped with this no-start problem. I'm worried a dealer trip is going to be required.

I still have the lower left side body panel off (the silver lower). Any microswitches or anything I'm missing or something like that. What might I have unplugged that I forgot to plug back in?
Jeez, just sounds like a weak battery. Were you down for a week or more doing cable change? I can't think of anything you could disturb doing the cable change that would cause the clunk you described when pressing the starter button. You won't even get that with one of the interlocks engaged.

I guess see if your lights cutoff for the start as this will indicate your load shed is working correctly. If the lights don't cutoff then the load shed isn't doing it's job thus loading the battery further. Sounds like a coincidence to me unless the downtime drained your battery.

Good luck.
 
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