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Discussion Starter #1
After nearly 5 weeks of not riding due to ACL reconstruction in April, I finally got to take a ride this past Friday afternoon. The ABS completed its test and the lights went out as I left my driveway. After approx. 6 miles they began alternate flashing. I had kept the battery charged, but I'm not sure how old it is, so I thought it time for a change. Picked a new one up Sat., but the lights are still alternating as soon as the key is turned.

I installed Speedbleeders on the front brakes and bled them well, in early May. The right Speedbleeder would not thread into the filler adapter on the right caliper, so I removed it. I'd seen posts here that the adapter would have to come off for Speedbleeder install, so I thought I was ok doing that. With the lights flashing, now I'm not so sure. Could this be the reason for the ABS fault? My 2000 doesn't have the monitored fluid level, so I've read, and even though the rear reservior needed just a bit of fluid, I installed the Speedbleeders on the rear, bled them out, and made sure the fluid was at the full mark. No joy getting the lights to go out.

Would taking the filler adapter off the caliper cause the ABS to fault? Has anyone had this happen? TIA!
 

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Mine did the same thing for no apparent reason. The ABS system (lights) were reset by the dealer and haven't come back on in over a year. I have had occasion to need ABS and have heard/felt them operate so I will assume all is well.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Lee,


Follow these proceedures to determine the cause of the fault.


Firstly you can do some investigation of your own fault codes.

Under the front seat and clipped to the frame there is a diagnostic connector. It is cylindrical in shape and has a removable push-and-turn grey cap.

Remove the cap and locate the pin 2 - connected to a brown/blue wire. Connect an analogue meter between pin 2 and earth. Turn on the ignition. The meter will initially settle at around 10V. It's what happens next that is of interest. The needle will fall to a number of lower voltages in a series of pulses. Count the number of needle drops. This number is your fault code.

The following codes have appeared on other forums. I cannot guarantee their accuracy but they may point you in the right direction:-

1.Front pressure modulator.
2. Rear pressure modulator
3. Front wheel speed sensor
4. rear wheel speed sensor
5 battery voltage too low
6.ABS relay
7.ABS control unit
8. sensor gap front or rear or other outside influence.
9. Unknown .....
16. Failed plunger test


Ok. This may help you cure the actual fault which is causing the alternating (wigwag)warning lights.


This is from the post that described resetting the ABS II. Maybe you will get lucky and it is a low battery. Just removing the fill adapter would not set a fault.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, John. I had seen the post about using a meter and counting the pulses. I looked under the seat for the connector, but didn't find it. Had I found it, it wouldn't have helped me. I don't have an electrical tester. Maybe I should pick one up one of these days.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Lee,


It is on the "brake" side, just under the frame tube in the rear (look directly under the bolt that holds the rear seat). You can pick up a nice little ceap meter at Harbor Freight for under 10 bucks. Radio Shack has them for a bit more. Maybe some one near you can lend a hand. The best part about your system is that the brakes will work just fine but just NO ABS.
 

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Lee, you are probably going to have to go to bmw clt to get your abs reset.
It does give you an excuse to ride again though.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi, Mike. Getting "flashed" was the outcome of my test ride Friday. Still managed to do about 40 miles before it got too late. Put a few more on Sunday. My wife, who has never ridden with me and hasn't been on a bike since she was...er, let's just say it was a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away, decided she wanted to take me to the new Indiana Jones movie and go on the bike, no less.

I went to an auto parts and two hardware stores tonight looking for a multi-tester with a pointer. Not one store had one. Two had the digital readout. From John's earlier post, I don't believe that would work. I'll check the big box stores on the way home tomorrow.

I have an appt. Sat. at BMW Clt to have them read the code and hopefully get it cleared.

Lee
 

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I might stop by there if free on Saturday, what time is your appt?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
9:30. I'm planning to leave home about 7:30, stop for breakfast(Bojangle's, etc.), and get there ahead of time, so maybe they can get on mine early or at least on time. I'll be held captive, so come on out if you can. It'll be good to see you.

Lee
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Re: The dreaded flashing ABS lights, more questions

The results after picking up a multi-meter at Lowe's.

Seven pulses. Of course it would have to be the ABS control unit. I seem to remember reading posts about ABS faults that showed the control unit to be the cause, having the system flushed, the faults clearing, and no more flashing. I'm hoping this will be the case with mine.

I have run new brake fluid through my front and rear wheel circuits twice in less than a year. The .pdf BMW shop manual I have says the ABS circuits don't have to be flushed unless the system is opened or drained. Is this correct, or just bad advice? If I were to flush the ABS circuits on an ABS II model, how would I go about it? Squeeze lever, open bleeder, hold lever, close bleeder, repeat while watching the reservoir? Anything else involved?

Thanks for the help!

Lee
 

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Lee

Flush the unit. It costs peanuts and may help sort your problems. Mine has not faulted since reset - I had the seven pulses. The flush procedure is just as you describe.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just finished flushing the ABS control unit. The fluid from the front module looked nearly new. I pushed two half brake reserviors full through it anyway. The rear had a slight discoloration for a pump or two. Then it cleared up. Two half reserviors full through it and I came in to search for the thread about resetting the unit. We'll see what happens next.

Thanks, All!

Lee
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Lee,


There is no seperate wheel and ABS circuit in this model so when you flush from reservoir to caliper you get 99% of the fluid. The two ports on the ABS unit are there to let out any air at the high point. Flushing them will get the last 1% of fluid out.

Still worth a try before attempting a reset.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Resurecting an old thread.

Having BMW Clt reset the ABS faults worked. The lights only flashed simultaneously upon startup, then went out after moving. No problems until early this month. Riding normally, slowing and stopping for a red light, the ABS lights go into fault mode. Once home, a check of the wire still hooked to post 21 on the ABS control unit shows the unit to be bad. Bleed brakes, bleed control unit, bleed brakes again. Do the reset using the wire connected to post 21. Success! Go for a ride. No flashing lights. I thought I better test the ABS by stopping a little shorter/firmer than I usually do. The lights began flashing immediately.

I've searched for a new control unit and $1600 is just too steep. Numerous web searches led me to BBA-reman. BBA-reman repairs ABS units, instrument clusters, ECU's, ECM's, etc. Info on the LT's unit is http://www.bba-reman.com/catalogue/DetailedProduct.aspx?DetailedProduct=1326 . Pricing is POA (Priced on Application), which is French for "If you have to ask, you can't afford it." I called the location in MA and was told BBA-reman is in the preliminary stages of repairing K1200LT units and if they could repair it, there would be no charge. The website says they would turn a unit around to me in 2-3 days. Not having a stockpile of units lying around, the repair to mine would take 2 weeks.

BMW says the unit is not repairable, replacement is the only option. Since my ABS isn't working, do any of you see any harm in pulling the control unit, sending it off, and letting this company have a look at it? I know I'll have to drain the brake systems and won't be able to ride in the meantime.
 

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Lee, pulling the control unit should not do any harm, I would just make sure the battery is out of the bike on a charger before you pull the unit out.. Good luck with the repair.. worst case scenario there might be a replacement on ebay or try fred rowland. I have his number if you need it..
 

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Lee510 said:
BMW says the unit is not repairable, replacement is the only option. Since my ABS isn't working, do any of you see any harm in pulling the control unit, sending it off, and letting this company have a look at it? I know I'll have to drain the brake systems and won't be able to ride in the meantime.
Lee,

I would cap off the lines as well (even just some plastic wrap and a rubber band). Often the term "non-repairable" is an economic decision that has nothing to do with the possibility that it can be repaired. These units are far simpler than the integral units and, if parts can be found, are easily repaired.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the advice, Mike and John. The .pdf manual I have says the battery and holder have to come out in order to get the ABS unit out. Even with draining the brake lines, I suspected I'd need to cover the steel brake lines near the ABS unit to prevent any left over fluid from dripping and causing problems. I wasn't sure the best way to cover them, but plastic wrap and rubber bands should do the trick. I plan to perform the ABS unitectomy tomorrow.
 

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I've postponed replacing my ABS-II pump due to cost. Then I took a 3,600 mile ride across eastern US and Canada without ABS. I can strongly confirm that 1) a bike this heavy, 2) with brakes this good, needs ABS. I came close to meeting my maker while coming out from a tunnel in Montreal.

So with all of our collective experience is there any place I can get an ABS-II pump at a more reasonable price? I just last week checked with Mike at Beemerboneyard, but they weren't able to help.

Anybody?
 

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"I just phoned the guys mentioned in this thread (they are in the UK). (http://www.bba-reman.com/catalogue/DetailedProduct.aspx?DetailedProduct=1326)
Has anyone here used them?
They say they charge about £150 plus carriage and VAT for repairing your own.
I was unsure of the vagueness on the price or their confidence in fixing this particular unit.
They do seem to have a lot of other units they fix, inc. other BMW ones.
Personally, I have been riding my '99 without ABS for years now. My other bike used to have ABS as well, that bust 10 years ago, no mishaps.
I will get it fixed IF someone can actually tell me a price and a turn around time.
 

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c00k1e said:
"
Personally, I have been riding my '99 without ABS for years now. My other bike used to have ABS as well, that bust 10 years ago, no mishaps.

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I thought it was a fail on the mot if the abs lights didn’t go out?
 
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